Our plan today is similar to our past 5 Caminos in that we skip the challenging climb from the Valcarce valley at roughly 1700 ft. to the village of O Cebreiro at 4393 ft. The trail includes the official entrance into the autonomous region of Galicia from Castilla. It saves us 11.2 miles of walking, which for us translates to 2 days and nights.
A taxi picked us up at Nova Ruta at 6:50 a.m. and took us to the parking lot next to the medieval Iglesia de Santa María of O Cebreiro.
Linda over-looking the area we walked from in 2015 and 2017.Iglesia de Santa María. Two pilgrims spent the night in the protection of the doorway with their canine standing guard.The village has its origin in Roman times and maintains the historical character of a typical Galician mountain community. It is one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements on the Camino.
O Cebreiro is also the birthplace of Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, a local priest instrumental in the 20th century revival of the Camino de Santiago. He initiated the yellow arrow symbol and is also responsible for the cement markers in Galicia.
We decided to take the complementary route to Liñares, having taken our usual path following the road.
We normally go right… today we went left.Today’s route continued upward from O Cebreiro (4393 ft) …… until we reached a high point of 4513 ft.We traveled down to this local road that eventually merged with the other path into Liñares.More mountain scenery on the way to Liñares.Liñares just ahead, at 4068 ft above sea level.
Liñares has a bar/ small store that is a coin toss to be open for a restroom break and/or breakfast. Today it was closed.
After Liñares we walked a short distance along the road, then took the steep dirt path up to the San Roque pilgrim statue.
The path through the woods and upward.The very steep section of path just before alto de San Roque (elev. 3810 ft)The tall pilgrim statue walking in the winds of the area.Linda walking in the winds at alto de San Roque with 20+ ft high pilgrim statue in background.Another view of the pilgrimScenery on the way to HospitalJust before walking into the hamlet of Hospital (do Condesa) (pop. 17)Some of the best tostadas on the Camino can be found at “Meson O Tear” in Hospital.Leaving Hospital and on our way to Alto do PoioJust before leaving the road and heading up the path to Alto do PoioA relatively gradual path through the shaded hill-side path One of a handful of old residences in Padornelo just before taking on the Alto do Poio.Starting up the path to Alto do PoioClimbing higher, a step at a time, wondering “where is the top?”“light at the end” maybeAlbergue del Puerto, at the top. Cool glass of OJ (fresh squeezed) reward for the finish.“What do we have next?”This big fella belongs to the OJ place owner and hangs around watching the silly pilgrims climbing up the steep hill. He’s been doing it since 2015 and probably before. He likely recognized Jim today and wondered why people our age would do such a thing. After some good scratchin’ he left, just shaking his head.After a rest, some OJ, a rest, another rest… we moved on to Fonfria.More mountain scenery at 4250 ft elev.Just before Fonfria (pop.41)Our destination for today in Fonfria. Albergue A RebmoleiraCasa Nuñez, on the right across from a Fonfria barn,Locals rounding up the cattle from the nearby field and herding them into the barn. Our Fonfria “neighbors”.Our room in Casa NuñezOur Mencía wine for our main meal in the A Reboleira restaurant.Tomatoes and tuna and local fresh cheese with honey.Dark chocolate cake
Today was a fun day with some challenges, really beautiful scenery, and delicious food. Another typical day on the Camino Frances.
Jimandi 