Walking down the hill from our room to rejoin the camino.Walking out into the fields and vineyards as we left the paved road through Azofra.This is a medieval boundary marker from the 15th century.At the foot of this hill the camino began to run parallel to the Auto Via.After crossing this small road we moved away from the autovía and back into the fields.More pilgrims were out today, compared to previous days.Up to now, the walking was relatively flat, but up ahead, we could see ” trouble”.The path was about to become quite steep.We chatted with Karen from Holland on the way up the steep hillside. Here we are just about to the top.Karen offered to take our photo, and we accepted.
After reaching the top of the steep hill we said our goodbyes to Karen and stopped at the Rioja Alto golf course restaurant for cafe con leche and croissants, as there were no tostadas to be found.
After a longer than usual breakfast rest, we continued walking another mile to Cirueña. This will be our 8th visit to Casa Victoria.
This is the exterior of Casa Victoria. The owners live on the first level and rent out rooms on the 2nd and 3rd levels.Our double room on the 3rd floor. We’ve stayed in this room 7 of the 8 visits.Our room has an ensuite bathroom. The ceilings are quite low, creating a hazard for Jim, especially when getting up to use the restroom in the dark. Thus far, no major injuries have resulted.After checking in and getting off our feet in our room for some brief recovery time, we walked a few steps to the only restaurant in this village of 131 persons. We both had pizzas for this designated main meal.
We got showers, rinsed out clothing by hand and then hung them outside to dry in the warm afternoon sun.
Reading, napping, blogging and a game of Hand & Foot filled the remaining hours of another day on Camino 2026.
At 7:35 the temperature was a cold 49F with a breeze making it feel even colder. We found our way out of town, in spite of a shortage of camino markers.
This makeshift marker (yellow arrow?painted on the back of a road sign pole) confirmed we were on the right track as we walked along a secondary road out of town.The next marker took us away from the paved road into the vineyards.This section of grapevines were growing in large stones, rather than clay, similar to what we have observed in Provence, France.We continued to weave among the vineyards toward Ventoza.A new road through the vineyards confused us initially but patience prevailed after a short deviation, before we returned to the familiar path.A familiar section of the path running parallel to the autovia.Leaving the camino path toward Ventosa , which is no longer directly on the Camino. In recent years, art work by locals has been added to the path.More art work? along the path into Ventosa.More artworkA tourist spot on the left, featuring products made from honey (miel). We stopped for breakfast at the Buen Camino Bar on the right. The village of Ventosa is up the hill and to the left.
After breakfast and a 30 minute break we called a taxi to take us to Nájera, about 5 miles away. We are staying in Azofra tonight, a total distance of 14.5miles from Navarrate. So, we’re skipping the walk from Ventosa to Nájera to get our total miles for the day to less than 10.
We exited the taxi in Nájera and walked through the shops and along the camino out of town.We walked by the 11th century Iglesia de Santa Maria la Real…… then began the steep climb up the red rock hillside into which the church and other building are built.Linda nearing the top of the red rock hillside.Looking back at Nájera from the hilltopLooking forward and heading into the vineyards toward Asofra .Making way for a tractor used to cultivate and maintain the vineyards.Approaching Azofra (pop. 250)Calle Mayor (main street) of AzofraOur room in Pencion La Plaza, Azofra.
Correos delivered our backpacks later than usual, at 1:15, but rather than begin our chores, we walked from our room to the only eatery in the village for our main meal.
A main meal of huevos con jamón.
Full of fried potatoes, eggs and Iberian ham, we returned to our room and spent the rest of the day machine washing and drying all our clothes, napping, reading, blogging and otherwise enjoying our very nice room, perhaps the best, in our experience, on the Camino Frances.
The following is a photo story of our walk today from Logroño to Navarrete:
The first mile was along the main street leading out of Logroño. Note the Camino marker in the sidewalk, appearing dependably, to help keep pilgrims on tract.This sign was seen after the sidewalk marker told us to take a left onto this side street.The arrow markers led us to a large park, bordered by multi-storied shops and residential buildings.After walking a mile through the park, we were directed to an underpass.The underpass took us to this divided cyclist/pedestrian path which continued for another full mile as we left the city environs.Off to our left, were fields and mountains in the distance,After a mile the divided pathway emptied into a large camping/childrens’ playground/lake and golf course (according to directional signage.)Walking along the lake. Two anglers were busy at work with multiple lines in the water, but no signs of any action were witnessed by we two pilgrims.A half hour later near the end of our ” walk through the park”, we found a bench and tested it for restability, then moved on a few minutes later.A huge building with lots of windows and a modern look was under construction in the midst of olive orchards and experimental vineyards. No signs of activity were noted when we last walked past this area. nSo its appearance shall remain a mystery, if and when we walk by again in the future.Reaching the top of the hill, leaving Logroño behind.The paved path into Navarette was elevated above the auto via with a chainlink fence for safety.The pavement became a dirt path at the foot of this section of road and continued all the way into Navarrete.Hostal Villa de Navarrete
We were able to check in as soon as we arrived at 11:30. After the nearly 8-mile walk without a break, we got breakfast at the bar in the village square, then returned to our room for a a much needed R&R.
By 1:30, we had recovered sufficiently well to head out again to a favorite local restaurant only a few steps from our room. We relaxed somewhat further while savoring some of the local culinary offerings and wine (unlabeled).
Ensalada Rusa (Russian Salad) for Linda and Caparrones con Sacraments (Red beans with chorizo) for JimPollo Asado (roasted chicken quarter) for Linda, Carrillera al Vino Tinto (pork cheeks in Red Wine) for JimArroz con Leche (rice pudding) for Linda and Flan for Jim
On the way back to our room, we noticed the open door at the Iglesia de la Asuncíon. Construction of this church was begun in 1523 and its altar, considered one of the largest in the world, was completed in 1698. So, we went inside.
Iglesia de la Asuncíon of Navarrete
Known for having one of the most impressive Baroque retablos in Spain, we have been dazzled on previous caminos by visiting this remarkably golden masterpiece and the spiritually moving impact it can have.
Santiago (Saint James) greeted us as we entered the church.The retablo with only natural light and a time exposure photo.With the lights on.A closer look at the altar.A closer look at the display area behind the altar
Clearly moved by the magnificant display we walked back to our hostal room and retired for the day.
Around 5:00, Linda mentioned that Navarrete was known for its, wine, mushrooms and excellent clay pottery. We have confirmed the wine on multiple occasions and the clay pottery was nice but too heavy, awkward and fragile to take with us. Although Linda had enjoyed the mushrooms on previous visits, Jim could not recall having done so.
So, Jim hurried out while a nearby eatery was still open and sampled the famous mushrooms and was pleasantly surprised.
The mushrooms were delicious and expertly marinated to a perfect texture. Jim sampled the snails and liked them also.
So, Jim once again retired to our room fully sated on Navarrete specialties and looking back thankfully on another nice day on the Camino Frances.
We left our Viana hostal at 7:35 at a cool 52F and followed the yellow arrows out of the town on a path that snaked its way among literally “garden residences” that appeared to be either primary or secondary.
Leaving the town and beginning to walk through the “gardening” area.Aloe, anyone?
We eventually cleared the garden area and walked on paved, lightly traveled roads for a mile or so.
Leaving the garden area and entering the open fields
The path became dirt again as we began walking through grain fields recently mowed and baled while others were still growing. Vineyards were scattered throughout and became more dominant the longer we walked.
Grains and grapes.We entered a forested areaCrossing, safely, the secondary highway into Logroño. Look closely and you can see Linda’s head peering above the railing.more forest once we crossed the highwayReaching the end of Navarre and entering La Rioja.Shortly after entering Rioja, we crossed back under several highways and began a mile or so of steep climbing on a paved road on the way into Logroño.Near the top of our climb, with Viana 4+ miles behind in the distance.Getting our first glimpse of Logroño as we crested the hill.Closing in on Logroño, (pop.150,000), the capital of the Rioja region of Spain.Walking through a park as we entered Logroño.A view of a main bridge over the Río Ebro into Logroño.Crossing the Río EbroThe camino going through Logroño.The Iglesia de Santiago el Real was right on the camino path and open, so we stopped briefly to go inside.The impressive Santiago Matamoros above the entrance.Inside Iglesia de Santiago El Real
We continued along the camino into Logroño on the way to our hostal. As we neared our destination, we stopped for breakfast at 10:30.
Tasty breakfast, featuring a different kind of tostadas.After breakfast, we walked a few more blocks to our destination, Hostal Bracos.Our room in Hostal Bracos was ready when we arrived at 11:00.The view from our room on the 3rd floor.
After we got settled into our new temporary home and only partway through our chores, we ventured back out for our main meal, in spite of finishing breakfast only a couple of hours earlier.
Two similar but different salads and a shared “racione” of calamari made for a tasty, filling and healthy meal.Our view from a booth in St. Patrick’s, an Irish bar, the site of our lunch. (A discovery from Camino 2025).
After lunch we retreated to our room and resumed chores, including napping, before returning to Plaza del Mercado, near our lunch spot to visit the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Redonda.
At lunch, we discovered the church was opening for visitors at 5:00. In our previous seven caminos we have never had the opportunity to visit it.
Iglesia de Santa Maria la RedondaThe main sanctuary A closer look at the altar ( Retablo)A view of one side, giving a better perspective of the immense size of the structure relative to visitors.
We both enjoyed the walk today, in large part, due to the cool temperature and also because our bodies are continuing to adapt to the routine and also, probably, getting stronger.
This pot was just outside the door of Suexte as we exited this morning. It’s a neat way to have your fresh salad fixins all in one, convenient spot. (note the tomatoes, and multiple leaf lettuce varieties).Walking out of Los Arcos through the town gates.“I once was what you are, you will be what I am”… is the prophetic inscription for anyone passing the gate of the Cemetery as we left Los Arcos.All straight and level walking to start,Continuing on the “straight and level”.Still straight after 2 miles, but a dip and a climb up ahead to break the monotony.Finally, after 2.5 miles, our first bend in the path.Weaving our way through the grain fields……. and an olive orchard for diversity!Leaving the path for a paved road… … you guessed it… straight, with an incline.More diversity on the final section into Sansol
Just before entering Sansol, we stopped at a small, modern albergue/bar that we had frequented prior to the pandemic. From 2022 through apparently two weeks ago, it has been abandoned. Today we stopped for our routine breakfast. Jim was so excited seeing this oasis (the services in Sansol are nil) open again and congratulating the new owners, that he forgot to take a photo! We did purchase a few extra items though, before walking on, to improve the cash flow of this new camino enterprise.
We walked on past Sansol (pop.112), as usual, to the nearby village of Torres del Río (pop.156).
The view of Torres del Río.
We stopped for a second breakfast at Hostal/Albergue in Torres del Río to wait for the 11:30 bus to Viana.
Santo Sepulcro, associated with the Templar Knights, was on our way to the bus stop on the edge of the village.Had we continued walking, the camino continues (see yellow arrow) up the hill and out of the village. We spent the night in Le Pata del Oca albergue, on the left, on two previous camino’s before the pandemic, prior to walking on to Viana.
We’re skipping the 7 mile section between Torres del Río and Viana. Otherwise we would have to walk more than 12 miles today, which is beyond our self-imposed limit.
We boarded the on-time bus at 11:30 after each paying the 1.50€ fare.
We arrived at Viana 12 minutes later, walked to our Hostal in another 5 minutes and were able to check-in to our room immediately.
Hostal Palacio de Pujadas in Viana, Navarra, SpainOur room in Viana.
After getting settled we had our main meal in the hostal dining room and by 2:00 we were nested in our room, performing our routine chores.
Later in the afternoon, after a short nap, Jim received notification that our grandson, Braden was playing a professional tennis match in Texas. So, we watched him win his singles match, on live, streaming video on Jim’s iphone via the ATP-WTA app. from our hotel room in Spain! Congrats, Braden! Good luck in tomorrow’s match.
After a brief celebration, we resumed our pilgrim roles, with remaining daily chores before retiring for another fun day on Camino2026.
At 7:45 it was 42F as we left the village just a few steps from our front door.We rejoined the camino on a 15% descending grade.A snow-like gathering of cotton wood seeds was on both sides of the path for a while.Looking back at Villamayor de Monjardin and the Castillo after about a mile walk.
Most of today’s walk was through a valley of grain fields and some scattered vineyards and olive orchards and a small field of asparagus near the end.
Although the scenery was beautiful at first, it went on and on, seemingly forever by the time we got within a mile of Los Arcos.
A lack of shade and the monotony of the long, straight paths has always made this section a challenge for us. And for each of our previous caminos, we dragged ourselves the final mile or so to the Los Arcos village square where we collapsed into a terrace chair and ordered breakfast at a nearby bar. Today, our 8th effort was no different.
And so the long, straight path lay before us.Making a left turn and another straight path, then a right turn, then straight along the edge of another field.Another turn just ahead, then more straight pathA difficult uphill, straight path, near the end of the 8 mile walk.Los Arcos coming into view.Our way into Los Arcos.Crashing for breakfast in the Los Arcos square with the Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asuncíon behind us.Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Asuncíon.One of the finest organs in Navarra.This is considered one of the most ornate retablos of the entire Camino Frances.
We had our main meal at our favorite restaurant in Los Arcos, Restaurant MAVI.
Ensalada Mixta for Linda and Ensalada Rusa for JimBaked chicken quarter for Linda, roasted beef ribs for Jim.
Inspite of the difficult walk into Los Arcos, it’s a favorite because of the church, the restaurant and its interesting history.
At the crossroads of two ancient trade routes, Los Arcos was once a Roman City (Curnonium). It’s current name originates from a battle in 914 when three Sanchos ( kings of Navarra, Castilla and Aragon) fought over the town. The Navarran army won with the help of their excellent archers, therefore the coat of arms of the city contains bows (arcos) and arrows.
Hostal Suexte
After a tasty meal, we retired to our room at Hostal Suexte, did daily chores, napped and blogged, until bedtime.
Jimandi 