It was another cool, overcast morning as we left our hostal and walked through the streets of Belorado and into the surrounding farmland.
Walking by wall murals, a common sight throughout Belorado depicting, history, social issues and just about anything you can imagine… At the edge of town, we walked by a nice park and over an ancient bridge, still in use by cars and heavy trucks over the Río Trion.The camino initially paralleled a busy secondary road toward Burgos.The path gradually moved away from the highway into the alternating fields of nearly harvestable grains and recently planted sunflowers.The conditions were perfect for walking especially for octogenarian muscles and joints.
We stopped at a small bar in Tosantos for breakfast and began chatting with a young lady with a UNC cap. Her name was Ansley from Charlotte, NC. She was a graduate of UNC and was a teacher in Denver, CO.
The more we chatted, we learned that our granddaughter, Katelyn, who walked along this part of the camino last May and had recently moved to Denver, lives only a short distance from Ansley. We shared further information with Ansley who planned to contact Katelyn upon returning to Denver. Both Ansley and Katelyn enjoy the many hiking trails around Denver.
It’s a small world, especially on the Camino. We posed for a photo with Ansley before continuing with today’s walk.Shortly after Tosantos (pop. 53) we observed the Ermita Virgin de la Peña, built into the caves visable from the camino path. An 8th century statue of the child Jesus was hidden in this cave under a bell to protect it from invading Muslims.Another view of the expansive fields of alternating grains and sunflowers.This recently plowed and planted field will be filled with bright yellow sunflowers in August.Looking back at the scenery after walking through Espinosa del Camino (pop.36) and up the hill toward Villafranca…Our first look at Villafranca Montes de Oca as we begin our descent into the valley.What goes up must come down applies frequently on the Camino.Once in the valley we left the nice wide path to a narrow path through the weeds.The busy road into Villafranca runs very closely to us on Linda’s left.Coming out of the weeds/fields but staying clear of the traffic.Nearly sharing the road with some huge, fast moving trucks and other vehicles.After easing carefully along the narrow passage between vehicles and buildings in Villafranca Montes de Oca (pop. 147), we begin the walk past the church up to our hotel, San Antón Abad.The final climb to the entrance of San Antón Abad
As we approached the reception desk, a familiar receptionist greeted us with a big smile, welcoming us back, this being our 7th visit.
We quickly checked in, were escorted to our room and settled in for a brief rest followed by our daily routine.
Chicken for Linda, Cod for Jim,
We took a break at 2:30 to have our main meal in the hotel dining room, then finished our chores and prepared for tomorrow.
At the end of our walk to Cirueña, yesterday, Jim began to feel some pain in his achilles tendon. Then later on last night he continued to have some pain.
Thanks to a house-call made by Linda, our staff unlicensed medical practitioner, some KT tape and a 2 minute YouTube instructional video, a camino miracle was performed, allowing Jim to walk today without any pain in the achilles tendon region. Hopefully, by the time the bandage falls off due to wear and showers, the camino healing powers will have completed the miracle.
Leaving the paved road out of Cirueña and rejoining the camino dirt path.
The walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is almost a perfectly straight line through the grain fields. We have often walked all or most of it in the dark to avoid the late morning heat, but getting lost was not a problem, because the path was the only place to walk. In this morning’s cool 52F air, we left at 7:00 with full light and overcast skies. Perfect for walking.
Usually when walking on the weekend, hunters and their dogs can be seen off in the fields and an occasional shotgun blast can be heard in the distance.
Today, the only activity we observed were a couple of hot-air balloons that appeared briefly, in and among the low hanging clouds.
We had some company during our walk.Looking back at Cirueña …… then looking ahead toward Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Hot-air balloon barely visible in upper left hand corner.Losing ground with fellow pilgrims as we near Santo Domingo…Walking in the old part of Santo DomingoThese two pilgrims from Holland inquired about places open for breakfast on a Sunday morning. We shared some knowledge with them and they thanked us and offered to take our photo.Posing for our new Dutch pilgrim friends.Walking past the Catedral de Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
The Catedral was not open so we kept walking. Saint Dominic is buried here as well as relics associated with his sainthood.
Dominic cleared roads and built bridges throughout this area making the pilgrimage safer and easier for pilgrims during the 11th century. He also performed miracles that saved the life of a young, falsely accused pilgrim and brought chickens back to life in front of a local magistrate.
The huge tower beside the Catedral stands over 70 meters tall, making it the tallest structure in the Rioja region.Santo Domingo…. town center with the only bus stop on the right.
The distance from Cirueña to Belorado is over 17 miles. When we reached Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the remaining distance to Belorado was over 12 miles. After walking to Belorado on our first 4 caminos (2014, 2017, 2019 & 2022) we vowed not to walk that segment of the Camino Frances again. This was due to limited or no or unsatisfactory places to eat, stay overnight or get a break from the sun.
On our past three caminos we took a taxi from Santo Domingo to Belorado. Today, we figured out how to take a bus from Santo Domingo to Belorado. We took photos along the way from our seat behind the bus driver so you can see what we missed from our first 4 caminos.
On the bus as it left Santo Domingo into the countryside toward Belorado.The camino runs along the left side of the highwayPassing the “place of three lies”. Villamayor del Rio means – “Large city on a river”. The place is actually a ” Small hamlet on a creek”!!Passing pilgrims along the left side of the highway.Near the end of the 13 mile stretch from Santo Domingo to Belorado.Entering BeloradoThe bus stop in Belorado.La Huella in BeloradoOur room in Hostal La HuellaUnique placenent of closetModern ensuite bathroom
La Huella is among our favorite places to stay on the Camino, plus it has one of our favorite restaurants. We love the service, food quality and the artwork on the plates.
Mixed salad for Linda. Gazpacho for Jim.Lemon baked chicken for Linda. Pork cheeks for Jim.Homemade cheesecake with curant jelly topping for dessert.
Belorado seems to have a festival nearly every time we pass through, and today was no exception.
In 1116, King Alfonso I granted Belorado a charter to hold annual fairs, the first municipality in Spain to receive such, for the purpose of promoting its role as a trading hub and a resting place for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago.
Today’s festival centered around various booths selling local arts and crafts and foods. Young children, mostly, wore period costumes of the middle ages.
Today was the celebration of the decree, which is celebrated as Feria Alfonsina on the first weekend of June.
We walked among the revelers, briefly, to get into the “spirit” then stopped by a church on the way back to La Huella.
Adjacent to La Huella is Iglesia de Santa Maria
the exterior of Iglesia Santa Mariathe sanctuary of Santa Maria A chapel devoted to Santiago in a transept of Santa Maria.
As you can see, today was a full and fun day on the Camino. We actually found time to do our routine chores, too. Time for this blogger to sign off.
Walking down the hill from our room to rejoin the camino.Walking out into the fields and vineyards as we left the paved road through Azofra.This is a medieval boundary marker from the 15th century.At the foot of this hill the camino began to run parallel to the Auto Via.After crossing this small road we moved away from the autovía and back into the fields.More pilgrims were out today, compared to previous days.Up to now, the walking was relatively flat, but up ahead, we could see ” trouble”.The path was about to become quite steep.We chatted with Karen from Holland on the way up the steep hillside. Here we are just about to the top.Karen offered to take our photo, and we accepted.
After reaching the top of the steep hill we said our goodbyes to Karen and stopped at the Rioja Alto golf course restaurant for cafe con leche and croissants, as there were no tostadas to be found.
After a longer than usual breakfast rest, we continued walking another mile to Cirueña. This will be our 8th visit to Casa Victoria.
This is the exterior of Casa Victoria. The owners live on the first level and rent out rooms on the 2nd and 3rd levels.Our double room on the 3rd floor. We’ve stayed in this room 7 of the 8 visits.Our room has an ensuite bathroom. The ceilings are quite low, creating a hazard for Jim, especially when getting up to use the restroom in the dark. Thus far, no major injuries have resulted.After checking in and getting off our feet in our room for some brief recovery time, we walked a few steps to the only restaurant in this village of 131 persons. We both had pizzas for this designated main meal.
We got showers, rinsed out clothing by hand and then hung them outside to dry in the warm afternoon sun.
Reading, napping, blogging and a game of Hand & Foot filled the remaining hours of another day on Camino 2026.
At 7:35 the temperature was a cold 49F with a breeze making it feel even colder. We found our way out of town, in spite of a shortage of camino markers.
This makeshift marker (yellow arrow?painted on the back of a road sign pole) confirmed we were on the right track as we walked along a secondary road out of town.The next marker took us away from the paved road into the vineyards.This section of grapevines were growing in large stones, rather than clay, similar to what we have observed in Provence, France.We continued to weave among the vineyards toward Ventoza.A new road through the vineyards confused us initially but patience prevailed after a short deviation, before we returned to the familiar path.A familiar section of the path running parallel to the autovia.Leaving the camino path toward Ventosa , which is no longer directly on the Camino. In recent years, art work by locals has been added to the path.More art work? along the path into Ventosa.More artworkA tourist spot on the left, featuring products made from honey (miel). We stopped for breakfast at the Buen Camino Bar on the right. The village of Ventosa is up the hill and to the left.
After breakfast and a 30 minute break we called a taxi to take us to Nájera, about 5 miles away. We are staying in Azofra tonight, a total distance of 14.5miles from Navarrate. So, we’re skipping the walk from Ventosa to Nájera to get our total miles for the day to less than 10.
We exited the taxi in Nájera and walked through the shops and along the camino out of town.We walked by the 11th century Iglesia de Santa Maria la Real…… then began the steep climb up the red rock hillside into which the church and other building are built.Linda nearing the top of the red rock hillside.Looking back at Nájera from the hilltopLooking forward and heading into the vineyards toward Asofra .Making way for a tractor used to cultivate and maintain the vineyards.Approaching Azofra (pop. 250)Calle Mayor (main street) of AzofraOur room in Pencion La Plaza, Azofra.
Correos delivered our backpacks later than usual, at 1:15, but rather than begin our chores, we walked from our room to the only eatery in the village for our main meal.
A main meal of huevos con jamón.
Full of fried potatoes, eggs and Iberian ham, we returned to our room and spent the rest of the day machine washing and drying all our clothes, napping, reading, blogging and otherwise enjoying our very nice room, perhaps the best, in our experience, on the Camino Frances.
The following is a photo story of our walk today from Logroño to Navarrete:
The first mile was along the main street leading out of Logroño. Note the Camino marker in the sidewalk, appearing dependably, to help keep pilgrims on tract.This sign was seen after the sidewalk marker told us to take a left onto this side street.The arrow markers led us to a large park, bordered by multi-storied shops and residential buildings.After walking a mile through the park, we were directed to an underpass.The underpass took us to this divided cyclist/pedestrian path which continued for another full mile as we left the city environs.Off to our left, were fields and mountains in the distance,After a mile the divided pathway emptied into a large camping/childrens’ playground/lake and golf course (according to directional signage.)Walking along the lake. Two anglers were busy at work with multiple lines in the water, but no signs of any action were witnessed by we two pilgrims.A half hour later near the end of our ” walk through the park”, we found a bench and tested it for restability, then moved on a few minutes later.A huge building with lots of windows and a modern look was under construction in the midst of olive orchards and experimental vineyards. No signs of activity were noted when we last walked past this area. nSo its appearance shall remain a mystery, if and when we walk by again in the future.Reaching the top of the hill, leaving Logroño behind.The paved path into Navarette was elevated above the auto via with a chainlink fence for safety.The pavement became a dirt path at the foot of this section of road and continued all the way into Navarrete.Hostal Villa de Navarrete
We were able to check in as soon as we arrived at 11:30. After the nearly 8-mile walk without a break, we got breakfast at the bar in the village square, then returned to our room for a a much needed R&R.
By 1:30, we had recovered sufficiently well to head out again to a favorite local restaurant only a few steps from our room. We relaxed somewhat further while savoring some of the local culinary offerings and wine (unlabeled).
Ensalada Rusa (Russian Salad) for Linda and Caparrones con Sacraments (Red beans with chorizo) for JimPollo Asado (roasted chicken quarter) for Linda, Carrillera al Vino Tinto (pork cheeks in Red Wine) for JimArroz con Leche (rice pudding) for Linda and Flan for Jim
On the way back to our room, we noticed the open door at the Iglesia de la Asuncíon. Construction of this church was begun in 1523 and its altar, considered one of the largest in the world, was completed in 1698. So, we went inside.
Iglesia de la Asuncíon of Navarrete
Known for having one of the most impressive Baroque retablos in Spain, we have been dazzled on previous caminos by visiting this remarkably golden masterpiece and the spiritually moving impact it can have.
Santiago (Saint James) greeted us as we entered the church.The retablo with only natural light and a time exposure photo.With the lights on.A closer look at the altar.A closer look at the display area behind the altar
Clearly moved by the magnificant display we walked back to our hostal room and retired for the day.
Around 5:00, Linda mentioned that Navarrete was known for its, wine, mushrooms and excellent clay pottery. We have confirmed the wine on multiple occasions and the clay pottery was nice but too heavy, awkward and fragile to take with us. Although Linda had enjoyed the mushrooms on previous visits, Jim could not recall having done so.
So, Jim hurried out while a nearby eatery was still open and sampled the famous mushrooms and was pleasantly surprised.
The mushrooms were delicious and expertly marinated to a perfect texture. Jim sampled the snails and liked them also.
So, Jim once again retired to our room fully sated on Navarrete specialties and looking back thankfully on another nice day on the Camino Frances.
We left our Viana hostal at 7:35 at a cool 52F and followed the yellow arrows out of the town on a path that snaked its way among literally “garden residences” that appeared to be either primary or secondary.
Leaving the town and beginning to walk through the “gardening” area.Aloe, anyone?
We eventually cleared the garden area and walked on paved, lightly traveled roads for a mile or so.
Leaving the garden area and entering the open fields
The path became dirt again as we began walking through grain fields recently mowed and baled while others were still growing. Vineyards were scattered throughout and became more dominant the longer we walked.
Grains and grapes.We entered a forested areaCrossing, safely, the secondary highway into Logroño. Look closely and you can see Linda’s head peering above the railing.more forest once we crossed the highwayReaching the end of Navarre and entering La Rioja.Shortly after entering Rioja, we crossed back under several highways and began a mile or so of steep climbing on a paved road on the way into Logroño.Near the top of our climb, with Viana 4+ miles behind in the distance.Getting our first glimpse of Logroño as we crested the hill.Closing in on Logroño, (pop.150,000), the capital of the Rioja region of Spain.Walking through a park as we entered Logroño.A view of a main bridge over the Río Ebro into Logroño.Crossing the Río EbroThe camino going through Logroño.The Iglesia de Santiago el Real was right on the camino path and open, so we stopped briefly to go inside.The impressive Santiago Matamoros above the entrance.Inside Iglesia de Santiago El Real
We continued along the camino into Logroño on the way to our hostal. As we neared our destination, we stopped for breakfast at 10:30.
Tasty breakfast, featuring a different kind of tostadas.After breakfast, we walked a few more blocks to our destination, Hostal Bracos.Our room in Hostal Bracos was ready when we arrived at 11:00.The view from our room on the 3rd floor.
After we got settled into our new temporary home and only partway through our chores, we ventured back out for our main meal, in spite of finishing breakfast only a couple of hours earlier.
Two similar but different salads and a shared “racione” of calamari made for a tasty, filling and healthy meal.Our view from a booth in St. Patrick’s, an Irish bar, the site of our lunch. (A discovery from Camino 2025).
After lunch we retreated to our room and resumed chores, including napping, before returning to Plaza del Mercado, near our lunch spot to visit the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Redonda.
At lunch, we discovered the church was opening for visitors at 5:00. In our previous seven caminos we have never had the opportunity to visit it.
Iglesia de Santa Maria la RedondaThe main sanctuary A closer look at the altar ( Retablo)A view of one side, giving a better perspective of the immense size of the structure relative to visitors.
We both enjoyed the walk today, in large part, due to the cool temperature and also because our bodies are continuing to adapt to the routine and also, probably, getting stronger.
Jimandi 