Most of our walks from Pintín have been in the dark, so this morning was a treat, getting to observe more of our surroundings.A short walk along the road out of Pintín led us into a small forest and back out again.The path out of the forest merged with the main secondary road into Sarria.Along the way, we were taken through the village of Aquiada, where the only thing moving this morning were the jaws of a few cows resting outside a barn, chewing their cud.Leaving Aquiada onto the dirt path The dirt path undulated frequently all the way into Sarria.Walking got rather rough exacerbating the undulations.The path’s last ditch effort to do us in before we stopped for breakfast.Our breakfast place just before Sarria.A well groomed gravel path entering Sarria.Following the Camino through SarriaFollowing the Camino through Sarria continued Walking the Camino through Sarria.Following the Camino up, up, up the steps, passed the Igrexa de Santa Maríña at the top and then down the steep pavement, turning right to go out of Sarria and over the medieval bridge.Leaving the Camino continuing straight, not left to go up the steps thus avoiding the steps up and steep pavement back down to the medieval A Ponte Da Aspera bridge… “our way”.“Our way”“Our way” continued…turn left at the fountain “our way”“Our Way” to the A Ponte Da Aspera medieval bridge.Walking over the medieval A Ponte Da Aspera bridge out of Sarria.After crossing the A Ponte Da Aspera the dirt path passed through shade trees, along a small stream and small corn fields.The path went along the railroad tracks for a while. Today was the first time we heard the train whistle and actually saw a passenger train whiz by. A short walk later we crossed the tracks.Before following the path back into the woods, a truck could be heard on the overhead. auto via,Only a few seconds later another warning whistle was heard and a second train raced by…… this one was carrying logs going to a lumber mill somewhere.After the excitement of seeing two trains pass by, the path re-entered the woods and we crossed a small stream.The path immediately headed uphill, so we were inclined to go with it, even though we had memories of the hard climb ahead.This forest is populated with many large, old trees, some mangled from enduring probably hundreds of years.A huge old tree right on the pathThe climb required a continuation of effort from bottom to top.Linda’s expression reveals the effort required.Making a final turn at the top.Made it!!Moving along, on level ground once more.Right after the climb we emerged from the forest and passed through this field which terminated at the edge of the village of Barbadelo and the albergue of the same name.
We’ve had unpleasant experiences with Barbadelo both with overnight stays and the restaurant treatment of guests. Consequently, we no longer patronize the village, if we can help it. Walking beyond Barbadelo to another more suitable location requires us to exceed our target maximum for a single day’s walk, so we use the two night stay at Casa Cines and taxi combination to mitigate the “problem”.
We completed today’s 7 mile walk at Barbadelo at 10:20 a.m. We had a drink on the albergue restaurant terrace and watched the passing pilgrims, while waiting for a cab to take us back to Casa Cines to spend the rest of the day and night.
Our good friend, Ñuria, who has been an exceptional host and provided timely support for all 8 of our Caminos beginning in 2015.
We had a late lunch/main meal at 2:30 and settled our bill and said our goodbyes to Ñuria and retired to our room to complete our routines and review plans for tomorrow before calling it a day.
Walking out of Fonfría (elev. 4253ft) this morning at 7:15, 59F and passing by Casa Lucas, where we stayed on our first 5 Caminos.The path leaving Fonfria, cattle in the field to our left. The same ones we saw being brought back to the barns last evening.This conscientious, wolf-like canine placed himself between “his” cows and us until we were safely on down the path.A mile down the path we approached Biduedo (pop.31), a usual breakfast stop. We decided to keep moving but did capture Linda and the smallest church on the Camino as we passed by.
We were actually in a hurry to see one of the most scenic sections of the Camino this morning. The sky was clear, so our expectations were high.
Just out of Biduedo we searched for the “view”, but this is what we got instead.We walked a little further, again hoping for a better result as some of the nearby scenery became visible.But all we got was thick, beautiful white clouds covering the entire valley below… 2000 feet below to be accurate.We kept walking, thinking maybe some of the clouds were beginning to lift revealing a view, any view, p l e a s e!But it was not to be.Nearing the end of the walk along the edge of the 4000 ft mountain overlooking a picturesque valley over 2000 feet below… it was as if it never existed. So, we had no choice but to begin the long trek down into the valley, but today, into the clouds.Down“Knee wrecking” down Carefully avoiding a Camino-ending injury.Until we reached Fillobal, 600 feet below.A favorite breakfast stop, halfway to Triacastela, unfortunately under new ownership and not the same as before. Rosa, the former owner was known for her delicious pastries and tortillas and provided a welcoming and warm environment for all her guests. Sadly, those characteristics were missing this morning and we disappointedly resumed out walk down the mountain.Leaving Fillobal, Linda said hello/goodbye to this neanderthal pilgrim.The path continued down, but had sections lined with trees.One thing worse than a steep downhill walk is one laden with loose, sharp rocks. Linda adapting by going very carefully and slow.more downhillIn Galícia especially, many of the paths are also washes the get deeper from erosion after decades and centuries of water runoff from melting snow and rains. This process exposes tree roots in a fascinating way.Exposed roots of this ancient chestnut treeWe walked through As Pasantes, a very old village with mostly old and a few relatively newer structures and modern automobiles and farm equipment. This canine inhabitant made it clear that this photographer was not to get closer to his family’s vehicles!The contrast of old and new in As Pasantes.Walking on to the next village with mountain view along the. wayA first view of Triacastela.Linda by the 800 year old chestnut tree in the village of Ramil.Linda catching a breather in Ramil.Moving on toward TriacastelaEntering Triacastela with the welcome sign and the relatively new municiple albergue in the background We stopped on the edge of town at this bar/albergue to call a taxi to take us to Pintín.
We ordered OJ (Linda) and ColaCao (Jim) and took a well earned rest for having walked downhill almost totally for 3.5 hours and dropping 2000 ft in elevation from Fonfria to Triacastela!
Our taxi (a tesla) arrived 15 minutes later and took us to Pintín and Hostal Casa Cines. It is our 8th visit.
We were greated with nice hugs from by Ñuria, the manager and owner’s daughter and immediately and given the key to our room, deferring check in, etc.
We had a light lunch in the hostal dining area and returned to our room for the afternoon for chores, etc.
At 6:00 we shared a pizza in the dining room. We had some nice conversation with Ñuria who’s English along with our limited Spanish and translation apps as needed, allowed us to communicate pretty well, we think!
We also had a brief after dinner chat with Tony from Scotland. He passed us on the way into Triacastela and we apparently beat him to Casa Cines with the help of Elon Musk and our driver’s vehicle.
Today finished nicely. Tomorrow will be the first day we don’t transport our backpacks. Our packs will be here in our room, when our tesla taxi returns us back to Casa Cines after our walk to Barbadelo tomorrow… if all goes as planned.
Our plan today is similar to our past 5 Caminos in that we skip the challenging climb from the Valcarce valley at roughly 1700 ft. to the village of O Cebreiro at 4393 ft. The trail includes the official entrance into the autonomous region of Galicia from Castilla. It saves us 11.2 miles of walking, which for us translates to 2 days and nights.
A taxi picked us up at Nova Ruta at 6:50 a.m. and took us to the parking lot next to the medieval Iglesia de Santa María of O Cebreiro.
Linda over-looking the area we walked from in 2015 and 2017.Iglesia de Santa María. Two pilgrims spent the night in the protection of the doorway with their canine standing guard.The village has its origin in Roman times and maintains the historical character of a typical Galician mountain community. It is one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements on the Camino.
O Cebreiro is also the birthplace of Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, a local priest instrumental in the 20th century revival of the Camino de Santiago. He initiated the yellow arrow symbol and is also responsible for the cement markers in Galicia.
We decided to take the complementary route to Liñares, having taken our usual path following the road.
We normally go right… today we went left.Today’s route continued upward from O Cebreiro (4393 ft) …… until we reached a high point of 4513 ft.We traveled down to this local road that eventually merged with the other path into Liñares.More mountain scenery on the way to Liñares.Liñares just ahead, at 4068 ft above sea level.
Liñares has a bar/ small store that is a coin toss to be open for a restroom break and/or breakfast. Today it was closed.
After Liñares we walked a short distance along the road, then took the steep dirt path up to the San Roque pilgrim statue.
The path through the woods and upward.The very steep section of path just before alto de San Roque (elev. 3810 ft)The tall pilgrim statue walking in the winds of the area.Linda walking in the winds at alto de San Roque with 20+ ft high pilgrim statue in background.Another view of the pilgrimScenery on the way to HospitalJust before walking into the hamlet of Hospital (do Condesa) (pop. 17)Some of the best tostadas on the Camino can be found at “Meson O Tear” in Hospital.Leaving Hospital and on our way to Alto do PoioJust before leaving the road and heading up the path to Alto do PoioA relatively gradual path through the shaded hill-side path One of a handful of old residences in Padornelo just before taking on the Alto do Poio.Starting up the path to Alto do PoioClimbing higher, a step at a time, wondering “where is the top?”“light at the end” maybeAlbergue del Puerto, at the top. Cool glass of OJ (fresh squeezed) reward for the finish.“What do we have next?”This big fella belongs to the OJ place owner and hangs around watching the silly pilgrims climbing up the steep hill. He’s been doing it since 2015 and probably before. He likely recognized Jim today and wondered why people our age would do such a thing. After some good scratchin’ he left, just shaking his head.After a rest, some OJ, a rest, another rest… we moved on to Fonfria.More mountain scenery at 4250 ft elev.Just before Fonfria (pop.41)Our destination for today in Fonfria. Albergue A RebmoleiraCasa Nuñez, on the right across from a Fonfria barn,Locals rounding up the cattle from the nearby field and herding them into the barn. Our Fonfria “neighbors”.Our room in Casa NuñezOur Mencía wine for our main meal in the A Reboleira restaurant.Tomatoes and tuna and local fresh cheese with honey.Dark chocolate cake
Today was a fun day with some challenges, really beautiful scenery, and delicious food. Another typical day on the Camino Frances.
We were on our way at 6:55 this morning. It was a chilly 55F.
All was quiet in Villafranca del Bierzo on this Sunday morning as we left El Campano.Walking along Calle d’Agua with 19th century mansions identified by family coat of arms.We passed the pilgrim statue and over the bridge over the Rio Burbia.Looking back toward the city from one side of the bridge.Looking back from the other side of the bridge.Walking past Casa Mendez… we stayed here in 2019.Looking at the Río Valcarce fallsWalking out of the city into the pass between the mountains.A nice paved, elevated walkway to make this section safer than several years ago when there was little or no path.The walkway coming to an end at the Auto Via tunnel.Joining the “barriered” walkway through the pass.On the walkway with serious barriers protect pilgrims.Linda looking for a change from walking on paved path and along barrier to a dirt path.After changing back and at the entrance to Pereje.(pop.39)Pereje is a near ghost town with few occupied buildings. A favorite bar was closed during the pandemic and remained closed until reopening with a new owner in 2025. Thankfully, Las Coronas, was open this morning and seems to be doing well. It has been upgraded by the new owner and is much more charming than before.Inside Las CoronasAn unoccupied and failing structure on the way out of Pereje. The relatively new municipal albergue was also closed and appeared to be inoperative.A view of the Río Valcarce as we left Pereje and rejoined the crash-barrier walkway.The mountain pass is beginning to open up just as we left the crash-barrier finally to enter the paved road into Trabadelo.These massive chestnut trees filled the forest on both sides of the road.Another of the large and very old chestnut trees along our walk into Trabadelo.Stacked lumber from the mill in Trabadelo indicated we were getting close.Crossing the Valcarce River with a view of the back of Hostel Nova Ruta Hotel Nova Ruta
We arrived at 11:00 at Nova Ruta, well before our room could be cleaned. It’s our 6th visit. We went into the restaurant and ordered a ColaCao and sat at a table. The owner saw us, came to our table and gave us a complimentary muffin and patted Jim on the shoulder. He doesn’t speak English and tends to be non-engaging.
After our refreshment, we found a seat in the hotel lobby and the owner’s wife saw us, greeted us emotionally in Spanish and gave us both big hugs and welcomed us. She also speaks little or no English but is much more outgoing.
We don’t know their first names… we have never asked, but it doesn’t seem to matter. We consider what we have with them is a friendship. It’s the main reason we keep coming back.
As soon as a room was ready we were given a key, skipping check in, and shown to our room. Lunch was available at 1:00 so we walked back down to the dining room and were the first guests to be seated.
Jim sighted a bottle of his favorite menci wine and bought it for 14€ earlier, while we had our Cola Cao. We took it with us to lunch and had the waiter uncork it for us.
Nova Ruta seems to have the best restaurant in the area, based on the weekend and evening crowds we’ve witnessed over the years.
Our first course was a nice Ensalada Rusa for Linda. Jim opted for a seafood salad that was unusual but very delicious. The seafood was pulpo (octopus), cod and mussels. In addition to fresh, crisp greens it had green peas, black and green olives and fresh tomatoes. It was dressed with olive oil and a light vinaigrette.
We both had beef cheeks stewed in red Mencía wine with roasted red peppers and fries.The beef literally fell off the cheek bone and melted in our mouths. It paired wonderfully with the Tilenus 2020 Mencía vino tinto (red).
Jim rated our meal 3 stars and gave the remaining half bottle of wine to the owner (head waiter) and his wife (head cook-extraordinaire), who both also love the vintage.
We had a relaxing rest-of-the-afternoon in our room, completing our chores, including having the owner call and confirm our 7:00 a.m. taxi pickup to take us to O Cebreiro to begin our walk tomorrow.
Today is a favorite walk through the vineyards of our favorite Mencia wines, produced almost exclusively in the El Bierzo region between Cacabelos and Villafranca del Bierzo.
All quiet in Cacabelos at 6:45 this morning.Leaving the “old town” , going out of town.Santuario de las Angustias hermitage.The unusual pilgrim albergue of Santuario de las AngustiasLeaving Cacabelos’s sidewalks back onto the dirt camino path along the road.The path continuing along the road as we pass by the hamlet of Pieros.Leaving the unsafe “path along the road” camino route to the “through-the-vineyards” route.Vineyards all around us with Villafranca del Bierzo in the distance.Vineyards all around us.These grapes are the source of one of our favorite Bierzo (mencia) wines.Loaded with unripe grapes .Walking through the village of Valtuille de Arriba.
Valtuille de Arriba is an interesting village of 85 people with an average age of 75 years old. Most of the homes are abandoned and in various stages of ruin. However, there are several homes that have been very nicely, but only partly renovated with the ruined part still attached. Jim has tried, unsuccessfully, to find out more about the village, which is surrounded by a rich terroir that is emerging as a leading producer and exported if excellent wines.
Renovations in progress in Valtuille.Leaving Valtuille and heading back into the vineyards.Typical camino and criss crossing farm roads through the vineyards.Extraordinary scenery all through the vineyards.Interesting home in the center of all these grapes. Extraordinary view, few windows, an owner, a tenant?…more questions than answers.Closer look at the “house on a hill” overlooking it all.More scenery, Villafranca in the distance.Dirt path ending as we began walking the paved road into Villafranca del Bierzo.Not sure of the implications of this new sign.The downhill stretch from the vineyards into Villafranca del Bierzo.Iglesia de Santiago with door of pardon coming up on the left.The Puerta del Pardón: During a Holy Year, pilgrims who were too sick to continue to Santiago could walk through the door in lieu of completing the pilgrimage and receive the same indulgences.The camino route into Villafranca with Castillo and our breakfast stop, just ahead .The Castillo: Built in 16th century it served as the residence of the Marquises of Villafranca and later as a strategic military site throughout history especially during the Peninsula War of 1819. Currently a private property, public access is limited.Our favorite breakfast spot when it’s open.We sat at these tables outside the Castillo bar. We chatted briefly with a pilgrim from Wales. He had walked 2 caminos before and was going to Santiago. Our accommodation for today, El Campano, is halfway down this very steep hill.The outside of El CampanoRegistration and waiting area for El Campano. It was especially nice to wait in this area until our room was ready.This is the town plaza where we ate lunch. Sevilla bar/restaurant is at the far end of the umbrellas on the left.Ensaladilla rusa“carrilleras de cerdo estofadas al vino Godello” (pork cheeks braised in Godello wine)Flan and ice cream cake for dessert.
Being in the middle of Bierzo wine country left us no choice but to try some new wines.
However, while picking up some snack items at a Dia supermarket he found a familiar wine on the shelf for 5.95€.
It was dry, full bodied, strawberry, tart cherry , chocolate medium tannins, smooth finish, low acidity. Went well with dark chocolate and peanut butter!
A real bargain for 5.95€.
At lunch, we ordered three different glasses of wine to go with our meal.
The first was the first white Bierzo wine we have tried, Godello Campo Redondo. It reminded us of a Chardonay but some notes similar to Pinot Grigot without the pungent follow.
The next was a red, Castro de Valtuille Mencia: fruity raspberry/cherry, oaky notes, vanilla, licorice. dry, acidic, med. tannins. neither soft nor bold.
We also tried a Finca Luna Beberide Mencia: a cross between Pinot Noir and Syrah. Slightly acidic, medium tannins, red and black berries, low oak, very drinkable classic mencia.
All of these wines were keepers. Linda preferred the Godello.
What was also fascinating was the price. We shared 4oz glasses of each. The Godello and Valtuille we 2€ per glass. The Finca was 2.80€ per glass.
We hope Total Wine carries one or more of these. We’ll definitely check it out when we return home!
Convento de la Anunciada. We stayed here in 2017.The view from our 2nd floor room window
Our room is very comfortable. We stayed here in 2025, too. We feel very comfortable in Villafranca del Bierzo, after 8 visits.
Today was a beautiful day, the walk was easily managed and the stay in Villafranca was very pleasant. The temperature stayed in the 60’s during our walk and the forecast for tomorrow is similar.
We’ll continue more into the mountains the next few days, which should help mitigate any rising temperatures in the valleys.
The Ponferrada downtown sidewalk in front of our hotel at 6:30 a.m.After turning right and walking two blocks through a residential neighborhood, we turned left onto Calle Camino de Santiago.Interesting building seen from our walk. Do you suppose the architects changed their mind mid-project? Or maybe they changed contractors, then went back to the original?We entered an apparently less affluent suburb, assumed by the look of the homes and stores and the sidewalks.
We stopped at our usual bar for breakfast, but their fresh bread had not been delivered, so no tostadas… so we moved on.
We stopped at the next bar and placed our order. The nice barkeep and possibly the owner not only confirmed she had tostadas for us, but when we requested “mantequilla y mermelada” (butter and jelly), she inquired “fresa o melocotón”?(strawberry or peach). Overwhelmed, we said “fresa” and quickly found a seat.
Our new camino, barkeeper friend.After a traditional breakfast, plus a piece of cake and some churros, gratis… we continued the walk along Calle Camino de Santiago.Further along on the walk, the sidewalks continued to narrow and the mountains became more visible ahead.At the end of Calle Camino de Santiago in the town of Companaraya, we made an OJ/rest stop at a charming bar/albergue.Moving on, we passed a relatively new wall art in Campanaraya.Also in Companaraya, hardware store wall art!
As we climbed the hill out of Campanaraya, we were caught in a wave of 40 high school students taking advantage of the new rule that lets you earn a Compostela by walking 100km anywhere on the Camino Frances as long as you also complete the last stage into Santiago. This was only one of at least 3 similar size groups of Spanish high schoolers we encountered on today’s walk. The process apparently was taking the group 9 days of walking, facilitated by chartered bus transfers between sections that they were walking.
Linda walking up the hill out of Campanaraya among the high schoolers. She the one toward the end with a blue shirt.
After walking among the noises of the city and motor vehicles for nearly 4 miles, once we cleared Campanaraya and left behind by the high schoolers, the silence on the walk along the path and among the vineyards was wonderfully calming.
Back on the path into the vineyards.The first vineyards we have seen in a while.Grapes of the Bierzo region, still early in the season but a promise of the exceptional wines to follow.More vineyardsWalking in the warming sun, just after a shaded walk through a grove of trees.We could see the mountains in the distance and a slight but insignificant elevation of the path ahead.The dirt path was left behind as we began the paved road into Cacabelos. The new concrete sidewalk provides a better defined safe area for walking.Down the hill into Cacabelos.The Camino entrance into Cacabelos. One of the student groups has stopped for a break off the road to our right.
We walked past the student group on toward our hostal and stopped for a beverage and break for the groups to pass on through. We thankfully sat down at an outside table, because when we went inside to order, another group of about 40 teenagers had totally occupied the inside.
We sat at our table and enjoyed the wait, since we were 1 hour early for check in. Giving the hoards of youngsters time to move on was a good excuse to get off our feet and into the shade with a breeze for as long as it took.
a second group moving througha third group passing throughWaiting for the crowd to clear and for check in… Walking through the old section of CacabelosOur destination with some major renovation work going on a few buildings away.
We were able to check in before noon and our backpacks arrived less than a half-hour later. In addition to our routine’s chores, we took advantage of the washer and dryer available for pilgrims to give a good cleaning to all our clothes.
We took a break at 2:30 to have a main meal in the hostal dining area and filled the remaining time before lights-out by: a game of Hand&Foot, blogging, reading and napping.
Jimandi 