We were on our way at 6:55 this morning. It was a chilly 55F.
All was quiet in Villafranca del Bierzo on this Sunday morning as we left El Campano.Walking along Calle d’Agua with 19th century mansions identified by family coat of arms.We passed the pilgrim statue and over the bridge over the Rio Burbia.Looking back toward the city from one side of the bridge.Looking back from the other side of the bridge.Walking past Casa Mendez… we stayed here in 2019.Looking at the Río Valcarce fallsWalking out of the city into the pass between the mountains.A nice paved, elevated walkway to make this section safer than several years ago when there was little or no path.The walkway coming to an end at the Auto Via tunnel.Joining the “barriered” walkway through the pass.On the walkway with serious barriers protect pilgrims.Linda looking for a change from walking on paved path and along barrier to a dirt path.After changing back and at the entrance to Pereje.(pop.39)Pereje is a near ghost town with few occupied buildings. A favorite bar was closed during the pandemic and remained closed until reopening with a new owner in 2025. Thankfully, Las Coronas, was open this morning and seems to be doing well. It has been upgraded by the new owner and is much more charming than before.Inside Las CoronasAn unoccupied and failing structure on the way out of Pereje. The relatively new municipal albergue was also closed and appeared to be inoperative.A view of the Río Valcarce as we left Pereje and rejoined the crash-barrier walkway.The mountain pass is beginning to open up just as we left the crash-barrier finally to enter the paved road into Trabadelo.These massive chestnut trees filled the forest on both sides of the road.Another of the large and very old chestnut trees along our walk into Trabadelo.Stacked lumber from the mill in Trabadelo indicated we were getting close.Crossing the Valcarce River with a view of the back of Hostel Nova Ruta Hotel Nova Ruta
We arrived at 11:00 at Nova Ruta, well before our room could be cleaned. It’s our 6th visit. We went into the restaurant and ordered a ColaCao and sat at a table. The owner saw us, came to our table and gave us a complimentary muffin and patted Jim on the shoulder. He doesn’t speak English and tends to be non-engaging.
After our refreshment, we found a seat in the hotel lobby and the owner’s wife saw us, greeted us emotionally in Spanish and gave us both big hugs and welcomed us. She also speaks little or no English but is much more outgoing.
We don’t know their first names… we have never asked, but it doesn’t seem to matter. We consider what we have with them is a friendship. It’s the main reason we keep coming back.
As soon as a room was ready we were given a key, skipping check in, and shown to our room. Lunch was available at 1:00 so we walked back down to the dining room and were the first guests to be seated.
Jim sighted a bottle of his favorite menci wine and bought it for 14€ earlier, while we had our Cola Cao. We took it with us to lunch and had the waiter uncork it for us.
Nova Ruta seems to have the best restaurant in the area, based on the weekend and evening crowds we’ve witnessed over the years.
Our first course was a nice Ensalada Rusa for Linda. Jim opted for a seafood salad that was unusual but very delicious. The seafood was pulpo (octopus), cod and mussels. In addition to fresh, crisp greens it had green peas, black and green olives and fresh tomatoes. It was dressed with olive oil and a light vinaigrette.
We both had beef cheeks stewed in red Mencía wine with roasted red peppers and fries.The beef literally fell off the cheek bone and melted in our mouths. It paired wonderfully with the Tilenus 2020 Mencía vino tinto (red).
Jim rated our meal 3 stars and gave the remaining half bottle of wine to the owner (head waiter) and his wife (head cook-extraordinaire), who both also love the vintage.
We had a relaxing rest-of-the-afternoon in our room, completing our chores, including having the owner call and confirm our 7:00 a.m. taxi pickup to take us to O Cebreiro to begin our walk tomorrow.
Today is a favorite walk through the vineyards of our favorite Mencia wines, produced almost exclusively in the El Bierzo region between Cacabelos and Villafranca del Bierzo.
All quiet in Cacabelos at 6:45 this morning.Leaving the “old town” , going out of town.Santuario de las Angustias hermitage.The unusual pilgrim albergue of Santuario de las AngustiasLeaving Cacabelos’s sidewalks back onto the dirt camino path along the road.The path continuing along the road as we pass by the hamlet of Pieros.Leaving the unsafe “path along the road” camino route to the “through-the-vineyards” route.Vineyards all around us with Villafranca del Bierzo in the distance.Vineyards all around us.These grapes are the source of one of our favorite Bierzo (mencia) wines.Loaded with unripe grapes .Walking through the village of Valtuille de Arriba.
Valtuille de Arriba is an interesting village of 85 people with an average age of 75 years old. Most of the homes are abandoned and in various stages of ruin. However, there are several homes that have been very nicely, but only partly renovated with the ruined part still attached. Jim has tried, unsuccessfully, to find out more about the village, which is surrounded by a rich terroir that is emerging as a leading producer and exported if excellent wines.
Renovations in progress in Valtuille.Leaving Valtuille and heading back into the vineyards.Typical camino and criss crossing farm roads through the vineyards.Extraordinary scenery all through the vineyards.Interesting home in the center of all these grapes. Extraordinary view, few windows, an owner, a tenant?…more questions than answers.Closer look at the “house on a hill” overlooking it all.More scenery, Villafranca in the distance.Dirt path ending as we began walking the paved road into Villafranca del Bierzo.Not sure of the implications of this new sign.The downhill stretch from the vineyards into Villafranca del Bierzo.Iglesia de Santiago with door of pardon coming up on the left.The Puerta del Pardón: During a Holy Year, pilgrims who were too sick to continue to Santiago could walk through the door in lieu of completing the pilgrimage and receive the same indulgences.The camino route into Villafranca with Castillo and our breakfast stop, just ahead .The Castillo: Built in 16th century it served as the residence of the Marquises of Villafranca and later as a strategic military site throughout history especially during the Peninsula War of 1819. Currently a private property, public access is limited.Our favorite breakfast spot when it’s open.We sat at these tables outside the Castillo bar. We chatted briefly with a pilgrim from Wales. He had walked 2 caminos before and was going to Santiago. Our accommodation for today, El Campano, is halfway down this very steep hill.The outside of El CampanoRegistration and waiting area for El Campano. It was especially nice to wait in this area until our room was ready.This is the town plaza where we ate lunch. Sevilla bar/restaurant is at the far end of the umbrellas on the left.Ensaladilla rusa“carrilleras de cerdo estofadas al vino Godello” (pork cheeks braised in Godello wine)Flan and ice cream cake for dessert.
Being in the middle of Bierzo wine country left us no choice but to try some new wines.
However, while picking up some snack items at a Dia supermarket he found a familiar wine on the shelf for 5.95€.
It was dry, full bodied, strawberry, tart cherry , chocolate medium tannins, smooth finish, low acidity. Went well with dark chocolate and peanut butter!
A real bargain for 5.95€.
At lunch, we ordered three different glasses of wine to go with our meal.
The first was the first white Bierzo wine we have tried, Godello Campo Redondo. It reminded us of a Chardonay but some notes similar to Pinot Grigot without the pungent follow.
The next was a red, Castro de Valtuille Mencia: fruity raspberry/cherry, oaky notes, vanilla, licorice. dry, acidic, med. tannins. neither soft nor bold.
We also tried a Finca Luna Beberide Mencia: a cross between Pinot Noir and Syrah. Slightly acidic, medium tannins, red and black berries, low oak, very drinkable classic mencia.
All of these wines were keepers. Linda preferred the Godello.
What was also fascinating was the price. We shared 4oz glasses of each. The Godello and Valtuille we 2€ per glass. The Finca was 2.80€ per glass.
We hope Total Wine carries one or more of these. We’ll definitely check it out when we return home!
Convento de la Anunciada. We stayed here in 2017.The view from our 2nd floor room window
Our room is very comfortable. We stayed here in 2025, too. We feel very comfortable in Villafranca del Bierzo, after 8 visits.
Today was a beautiful day, the walk was easily managed and the stay in Villafranca was very pleasant. The temperature stayed in the 60’s during our walk and the forecast for tomorrow is similar.
We’ll continue more into the mountains the next few days, which should help mitigate any rising temperatures in the valleys.
The Ponferrada downtown sidewalk in front of our hotel at 6:30 a.m.After turning right and walking two blocks through a residential neighborhood, we turned left onto Calle Camino de Santiago.Interesting building seen from our walk. Do you suppose the architects changed their mind mid-project? Or maybe they changed contractors, then went back to the original?We entered an apparently less affluent suburb, assumed by the look of the homes and stores and the sidewalks.
We stopped at our usual bar for breakfast, but their fresh bread had not been delivered, so no tostadas… so we moved on.
We stopped at the next bar and placed our order. The nice barkeep and possibly the owner not only confirmed she had tostadas for us, but when we requested “mantequilla y mermelada” (butter and jelly), she inquired “fresa o melocotón”?(strawberry or peach). Overwhelmed, we said “fresa” and quickly found a seat.
Our new camino, barkeeper friend.After a traditional breakfast, plus a piece of cake and some churros, gratis… we continued the walk along Calle Camino de Santiago.Further along on the walk, the sidewalks continued to narrow and the mountains became more visible ahead.At the end of Calle Camino de Santiago in the town of Companaraya, we made an OJ/rest stop at a charming bar/albergue.Moving on, we passed a relatively new wall art in Campanaraya.Also in Companaraya, hardware store wall art!
As we climbed the hill out of Campanaraya, we were caught in a wave of 40 high school students taking advantage of the new rule that lets you earn a Compostela by walking 100km anywhere on the Camino Frances as long as you also complete the last stage into Santiago. This was only one of at least 3 similar size groups of Spanish high schoolers we encountered on today’s walk. The process apparently was taking the group 9 days of walking, facilitated by chartered bus transfers between sections that they were walking.
Linda walking up the hill out of Campanaraya among the high schoolers. She the one toward the end with a blue shirt.
After walking among the noises of the city and motor vehicles for nearly 4 miles, once we cleared Campanaraya and left behind by the high schoolers, the silence on the walk along the path and among the vineyards was wonderfully calming.
Back on the path into the vineyards.The first vineyards we have seen in a while.Grapes of the Bierzo region, still early in the season but a promise of the exceptional wines to follow.More vineyardsWalking in the warming sun, just after a shaded walk through a grove of trees.We could see the mountains in the distance and a slight but insignificant elevation of the path ahead.The dirt path was left behind as we began the paved road into Cacabelos. The new concrete sidewalk provides a better defined safe area for walking.Down the hill into Cacabelos.The Camino entrance into Cacabelos. One of the student groups has stopped for a break off the road to our right.
We walked past the student group on toward our hostal and stopped for a beverage and break for the groups to pass on through. We thankfully sat down at an outside table, because when we went inside to order, another group of about 40 teenagers had totally occupied the inside.
We sat at our table and enjoyed the wait, since we were 1 hour early for check in. Giving the hoards of youngsters time to move on was a good excuse to get off our feet and into the shade with a breeze for as long as it took.
a second group moving througha third group passing throughWaiting for the crowd to clear and for check in… Walking through the old section of CacabelosOur destination with some major renovation work going on a few buildings away.
We were able to check in before noon and our backpacks arrived less than a half-hour later. In addition to our routine’s chores, we took advantage of the washer and dryer available for pilgrims to give a good cleaning to all our clothes.
We took a break at 2:30 to have a main meal in the hostal dining area and filled the remaining time before lights-out by: a game of Hand&Foot, blogging, reading and napping.
Today’s walk, although one of our shortest was the toughest. Much of the path was rock laden and washed out, very steep and the flies were brutal.
We climbed from Rabanal (3786 ft.) to Foncebadón (4717 ft). The Cruz de Ferro, the high point of the Camino Frances at 4933 ft., which we stopped short of, was achieved at the beginning of our taxi ride down the mountain.
For mere safety reasons based on prior walking experience (2015, 2017 for Molinaseca) and (2015,2017,2019, 2024) for Acebo) … today we skipped the walk from Foncebadón to Molinaseca. We also extended the taxi ride on to Ponferrada as a bonus, as today was planned to be a “rest day”.
Walking from our room to the main street up and out of Rabanal.Walking past the Posada de Gaspar, now closed. We stayed here on two previous caminos. Front door now bolted shut, signage gone, “CERRADO” on the door.A water fountain at the village exit.Flies swarmed us most of the walk up the mountain. 6-7 flies landing on Linda in this photo, another dozen or so flies buzzing around her eyes, nose and ears not caught by the photo.Jim used his mosquito net to successfully ward off the flies. Linda left hers at home, doesn’t like using it.For a while, we walked on a typical dirt path up the mountain.The path so steep, steps have been added.In and out of the forest on the way up,Lots of loose stones and cracked shale covered the path as we neared the top.Tundra and other higher altitude growth were more prevalent as we ascended to the nearly 5000 ft elevation.Loose rocks are sometimes a challenge for sandals and other footwear and the associated feet, ankles and knees.Openings in the trees revealed our progress to the top.Near the top, with the village of Foncebadon (pop. 13) just ahead.Finally made it to Foncebadon.Approaching El Trasgu, our breakfast stop and a favorite restaurant. We stayed at one of the rooms here in 2024.Having breakfast on the terrace, shaded by the metal tree at El Trascu store, restaurant, hostal.Looking down “main street” in Foncebadón.Waiting for the taxi.Scenery from our taxi ride over and then down the Irago Mountains.More spectacular scenery seen riding atop the Irago Mountains.The view from our taxi as we drove through El Acebo.
We arrived at Ponferrada Plaza hotel at 11:30 and were able to check in immediately.
We’ve stayed at the “Plaza” our past two caminos. It’s a typical hotel, not expensive and just a block off of the “non-traditional camino” path through Ponferrada.
We began walking this way in 2019. Instead of the traditional path, we continue walking past the drawbridge of the Templar Castle, down the hill, across the bridge and make a left onto Calle Camino de Santiago, which we follow all the way to Companaraya, where it merges with the traditional camino path.
All recovered from our earlier walk, we spent the rest of the afternoon getting our main meal in downtown Ponferrada at a familiar Thai restaurant, reading, blogging and just enjoying our “rest day”.
Walking out of Santa Catalina at 6:30 this morning.The rising sun gave a red hew to everything as we joined the path out of Santa Catalina.A straight, gradually climbing path was clearly working its way into the mountains.Just before reaching Ganzo (“goose” in Spanish), (pop.30) the teepees of Meson Cowboy appeared. One of the teepees looked like it was being repaired. At full capacity, the albergue doubles the hamlet’s population.We walked into town on the main road, because the potential breakfast/rest stops were more readily accessible.We stopped at La Barraka for our traditional breakfast.
The walk from Astorga (elev. 2864ft) to Santa Catalina del Somoza (elev. 3228 ft) yesterday, resulted in an altitude gain of 365 ft. Today we gained another 538 ft. when we arrived in Rabanal (elev. 3766 ft).
Leaving La BarrakaWe walked past Iglesia de Santiago, disappointingly never been open in 8 walks through. Donation box, sometimes seen on a table outside front door, but nothing today.Rejoining the camino with some crumbling markers, characteristic of the sad hamlet.The path continued with a familiar look and following the road.One of the few turns on the path.The path moved nearer to the road and increased its rate of climb.Another gradual turn, allowing a look up the mountain. Just above the trees is the steeple of Santa María de la Asuncíon of Rabanal. The clearing near the top of the same mountain is Foncebadon.Here’s a look at pine forest hanging to our right along the way.Here we have a choice to walk up the road or follow the path through the woods.On early caminos we took the right path. After the pandemic we opted for the road which appeared less steep. Last several caminos we’ve taken the forest route which has more shade and seems about equal on steepness.Not all shade, but still shadier.Ahhh! le shade!Pretty heather patches along the way.Bail out opportunity of you change your mind,A couple of pilgrims with a BIG but seemingly docile dog.Forest path runs out into the road.Not much path. Bugs seemed heavier on the narrow path, so we stayed on the road.Changing sides to walk into traffic on curves.Our usual liquid refreshment stop. CERRADO! (closed)
When La Candela appeared to be closed, Jim peered into one of the windows and saw a man at the cash register. The window was partially opened enough to inquired in broken Spanish, “when would they be open?” When the gentleman seemed confused, Jim motioned could he buy a drink. The man motioned everyone was sleeping and Jim motioned with fingers walking. The man came closer to the window and Jim asked if he could buy a drink for he and his wife. The man hesitantly said ok and allowed Jim inside. Jim received and paid for two drinks and thanked the innkeeper profusely. A few minutes later Linda knocked on the closed door and asked to use the restroom, and was also invited to enter. The innkeeper then went back to whatever he was doing before we interrupted. Linda came back outside and we both found a table and chairs on the side of the albergue in the shade and rested the next 30 minutes before proceeding toward our reserved albergue still too early to check in. When subsequently pilgrims passed by and saw us sitting beside the building, we responded, “it’s closed” not wanting to betray the innkeeper’s kindness, and they moved on.
Our makeshift rest stop at La Cantela.Walking up the steep street into Rabanal following a group of 20-some teens that appeared from nowhere.We’re usually interested in open-door churches on the camino, seeing the inside. Today we stepped inside of Iglesia de San Jose to take a look.We were surprised at why there were bars and a locked gate preventing further entry.Taking a photo through the bars, the altar retablo was quite impressive as were the side displays. It was worth the look but no one around to explain the locked gate.
We were able to check in at 12:30. Our room has mid-century style furnishings which mix well with old floors and ceilings and doors. The exception is the bathroom which is modern with a large well equipped walk-in shower.
Casa IndieCasa Indie CourtyardReception and stairs to our room.
We ordered our main meal for 3:00 from a sister property’s kitchen, which was delivered to a very rustic dining area just off the Casa Indie reception area.
Today’s walk has typically been a challenge for us. However, the cool air/low sun made the initial 4 miles of our walk fairly easy. But the combination of the brighter sun warming up and the increasing elevation gain in the last mile or so left us more tired than at the end of yesterday’s walk.
Iglesia de Santa María de la AsunciónInside the small chapel before the vespers service.
Tonight we attended a vespers service with Gregorian chant at Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción. The service was a first for us and though its spiritual impact was limited due to the language as well as our lack of knowledge of the Catholic liturgy, it still added a new perspective for this small chapel that we have visited multiple times before.
A nice way to end another interesting day of Camino 2026.
With the meseta behind us, today we began the slow, steady climb toward the high point of the Camino Frances.
After playing matches until well after midnight, the Padel players and fans must be sleeping soundly as the court was empty and the Plaza was quiet at 6:30 a.m.We love these beautiful murals.We walked past the Palacio de Gaudí.Nearly next door is the 15th-century Astorga Catedral.Just before leaving the old town we passed the Church of San Pedro, originally a medieval chapel but more contemporary in styling after a 1972 renovation Our targeted breakfast spot was not open so we tried the place across the street.Breakfast on the terrace.Leaving Astorga on our way into the mountains.First time in 8 caminos to find the Ermita del Ecce Homo open.the inside of Ecce Homo.We crossed the expressway before getting onto a dirt camino path again.The path along the road just before reaching a Maragato village.
The trail passes through a region of the Maragato culture, centralized in about 40 villages around Astorga. This mysterious group is rumored to be descended from the Berbers of North Africa, who arrived with the Muslim conquest in the 8th century and later converted to Christianity. Maragato men traditionally worked as muleteers, mule drivers who transported goods (especially fish and gold) around the peninsula.
Walking into the Maragato village of Murias de Rechivaldo (pop. 108) on “a red brick road”.A traditional stop for OJ which turned into a ColaCao (frothed hot chocolate) stop instead.Nice vantage point watching and greeting pilgrims as they head up the mountain.When we couldn’t put off the harder part of today’s walk any longer, we got on the path up into the mountains.After a couple of miles we’re only beginning to see an elevation change, because the grade is very gradual.Path mostly unchanged: straight, gradual climb, little or no shade.Arriving at Santa Catalina de Somoza
We found a seat at El Caminante Algergue/Restaurant, tired but not hurting from the walk and increasing temperature.
We ordered drinks and sent a message to Via Avis, requesting an early check in. It was only 9:37 a.m. and normally check in is 2:00 p.m. for the Hostal Rural (similar to a B&B in the U.S.).
After a cool drink and some time to rest off our feet, we received a response from Carlos, the owner, “your room is ready”.
We walked, not ran, the 100 remaining steps to Via Avis, exchanged greetings with Carlos, got the keys and settled in to an extraordinary room and property for the camino, or anywhere.
Walking the final steps to our place for the rest of the day, Hostal Rural Via Avis.our room, Lechvca.World class bathroom with excellent amenities and “towel tree” hanger.Common sitting room and bar and bird watching area.Jim enjoying a familiar Mencia wine from the region, while working on the blog in the common living area of Via Avis. This excellent wine was available in the bar fridge for 8€!Sharing a pizza for our main meal at one of three bar/restaurants in the hamlet (pop.60).
We always enjoy Via Avis… today was our 4th stay. Chores were accomplished with ease and the restful environment was renewing in its effect on our physical and mental wellbeing.
Another great day on the Camino Frances and Camino 2026.
Jimandi 