We left our backpacks in reception for Correos, paid our bill and said our goodbyes to Santiago, then exited Albergue Turístico Salceda out the back gate to take the shortcut that Santiago told us about on our first visit in 2015. Two pilgrims from Russia, leaving the albergue at the same time, asked to join us. We chatted while walking the shortcut and after Jim told them how to merge with the camino path, they walked on ahead.
The two pilgrims from Russia, who joined us on the short cut.Leaving the end of Santiago’s short cut just before merging with the camino for today’s walk.We walked this road for several hundred yards, merged with the camino path as it crossed the road and moved into the forest.We walked on a path like this through several small hamlets… two, of which had places for breakfast, but both were closed.Like many of the hamlets in this area, hydrangeas seemed to be the adornment of choice.We left the forest and hamlets behind and walked along a busy, large truck infested road until finally stopping at restaurant O Ceafoiro, located at the intersection of another busy, truck infested road.Breakfast at O Ceafoiro.Back into the forest after breakfast.Still on the edge of the forest, but following the main road.A small park with a “dry” water fountain for pilgrims.More path along the road.Getting a break back into the forest.Pretty forest scenery dominated by eucalyptus trees.An impressive underpass cut into solid rock.Walking through a couple of tired hamlets with ruin dominated dwellings.
We stopped at an upscale campground with a nice attached bar/restaurant. We unanimously decided to skip the camping part, but did indulge in small glasses of fresh squeezed OJ.
After the campground, we walked down, then up a paved residential road that rejoined the main road into O Pino. The camino crossed the road and headed back into the forest skirting O Pino and O Pedrouzo, aka: Arca.
We left the “official” camino and walked on into O Pino and neighboring O Pedrouzo, where we will be staying until rejoining the camino tomorrow morning.
Walking past the albergue we stayed at in 2015 on our first camino.Entering O PinoLeaving OPino and entering O Pedrouzo . We stayed in the large building on the left on our second camino in 2017.
We texted our destination for the day and got confirmation that we couldn’t get access to our room before 1:00. It was only 11:30, so we went into kill-time mode.
We stopped at a convenient bar/restaurant and ordered drinks and found a seat and table just outside on the sidewalk. We sipped, people watched, greeted passing pilgrims and sipped some more.
Our initial time killing perch, waiting for our room.
Getting bored with the time killing, we got more creative and decided to (1) visit Jim’s #1 source for Padrón pepper seeds and (2) find a restaurant close to our reserved room and (3) make a reservation for dinner.
We stopped here to buy fresh (2026) seeds for Jim’s and Anne’s hydroponic gardens.Fresh Padrón pepper seeds.
We stopped at Arca Gourmet restaurant which is next door to Pención 9 de Abril and had a simple, light lunch, anticipating a heavy, early dinner.
Jim ordered a tuna on toast to add extra B-12 and protein.Our Mencía wine for lunch
We finished lunch at 1:02, paid our bill, walked next-door and checked in and got settled in our room. It’s a fairly modern property, expensive at €94.50, but meets all our needs for today’s visit.
A typical look of being “settled” in our room.
After doing some chores and a brief nap (Jim only), we walked a half-block to a grilled steak specialty restaurant that we discovered last year on Camino2025.
We grilled a large beef T-Bone steak at our table with sides of tomato & lettuce salad and fries. The seasoning for the meat was an oil and herb blend and sea salt flakes.We left no prisoners, only trimed fat and bone, as we attacked this delicious cut of beef. And we thought we were totally sated…… until the waiter placed this delicious version of “chocolate cake” in front of us. And it, too, disappeared in short order and we finished our house “signature” Mencía wine.The wine we had with our steak.
After several very hot days, it appears that the temperature for our remaining days on Camino2026 will top out in the lower 80’s.
Last year, the places open for breakfast for the first 4 miles of today’s walk were limited, so we had breakfast in Arzúa before beginning.
Breakfast in one of a very few open bars this morning at 6:45.Back on the path leaving Arzúa.Pilgrim traffic fairly normal this morning.We made a brief stop to enter our first cello (stamp) for our crediential for today… see actual credential and stamp below. We need a minimum of two stamps each day during the final 100 km to earn our Compostela.This is the current page of our “credential” which documents our Camino. The green stamp (right-center) is the actual entry, “stamp or cello”, we made at the stop shown in the previous photo.After leaving Preguntono we crossed a paved road, went through an underpass of another road, then up a step switchback and onto the path again.Back on the path.Oats on the left, corn on the right.Jim couldn’t help but take photos of pretty scenery all around us.A brief rest and drink at a bar not open in recent caminos.Crossing the auto via.More sceneryA big Hórreo as we passed through a tiny hamlet.SceneryMore sceneryErosion hollowed out section, but pretty in its own way.Neat way to advertise pilgrims to visit.We were the only takers. But, by experience, we know they have excellent fresh OJ. And clean bathrooms.Seemingly docile watchdog. Got louder and serious when a pilgrim tried to get friendly.Nicely manicured section.Just before leaving the path to today’s destination.
This was our 8th stay at Albergue Turistico Salceda. It’s about 1km off the camino path on the outskirts of the village of Salceda.
Lucia welcomed us, literally with open arms when we arrived, then asked us to have a seat while she verified our room was ready. She returned promptly with our room key. It was only 11:30 and check in time was 1:00.
Our first chore was to get showers and gather all dirty clothing and deliver it to reception to wash and dry.
We had lunch in the dining area at 1:00,?then spent the afternoon chatting with Lucia, Santiago and Lucia’s daughter, Larisa when we not in our room attending to our other chores.
For dinner, Santiago offered to cook his specialty, a huge T-Bone steak grilled at our table, with small potato chips, Padrón peppers and a nice crisp green salad, on the side.
It was delicious and impressively presented, sizzling to our table.
Dinner tonight
Larisa helped her mom and granddad with dinner for us and the other dozen or so guests.
Postre (dessert)Our Mencía wines for lunch and dinner.
The whole visit this afternoon was dedicated to getting reacquainted and celebrating the special the relationship we have with this Camino family.
Walking out our “front door” at 7:00 a.m”. temperature 68F.At the top of a hill with Melide and the sunrise behind us.12th century Romanesque Santa María de Melide, as we left Melide.Back on the dirt path, the pilgrim traffic seemed more subdued this morning…… then this…and this… all within a 20 second time frame.For the 8th Camino, Jim has liked this beautiful Galician home……. and the unique mail/bread delivery box facing the street in front of the house,Canopied pathway created by regularly pruned trees.on our way into a forest Linda has been dreading this rock bridge since she crossed it last year. This year we followed a large baby stroller being carried across it.We continued for some time in the forest.Here, we exited the forest, walked along the road for a hundred yards, then returned to the forest.Soon after re-entering the forest we spotted this cute inhabitant.We played hopscotch with this young Spanish family until we reached our breakfast stop.We had a first time breakfast at this nicely layed-out eating area.Here’s the inside of our breakfast stop, Taberna de Parabispo.After breakfast we rejoined the path and continued on to Boente (pop.137).As we walked through Boente, the path became paved and headed downhill to a fountain.The Fonte de Saleta is said to have curative powers.
Just across the main street in Boente from our stopping point is the Iglesia de Santiago.
Iglesia de Santiago.Inside Iglesia de Santiago
Our stopping place was Albergue Fuente Saleta. We’ve stopped here each Camino since the pandemic, for a rest after a 4 mile walk, and to decide: (1) to continue on to Arzúa or (2) to skip the next 4 miles of very steep up and down hills via taxi, then walk the remaining 1.5 miles into Arzúa.
Today we chose the latter.
The couple who owns the Albergue are shown here, he at the bar and she at the table. The other couple at the table are from Switzerland and speak Spanish and German.
The lady owner speaks Spanish and French. Her husband speaks only Spanish. Jim communicates with the owners in French or broken Spanish, whatever works. The owner at the bar (in the above photo) is calling a taxi for us when the photo was taken. The albergue/bar is for sale, so this may be our last encounter.
The taxi arrived in a few minutes and took us to the outskirts of Arzúa, as we continued the walk into the city and to Pención Luis.
That’s Will, from Texas, just ahead of us walking to catch up with his 72 year old dad who walks faster. We have chatted with Will about the Camino, his second, as we hopscotched with each other over the past 3 days. We met again today as we exited the taxi and begin walking into Arzúa
Our timing was good today as we reached our destination before the temperature got too hot. When we began the final stage into Arzúa it was 70F. When we reached mid-town, within a block of Pencion Luis it was 75F… but we found a table and chair outside the restaurant on the Plaza in the shade, where we were comfortable waiting for access to our room.
Our problem was one of a different timing than our walk in the sun. It was 10:30 and check in time was 1:00. After several emails with the property manager, it became apparent that we weren’t getting in until 1:00.
Walking toward Arzúa.Arzúa building wall art.Our “perch” while waiting for our room.A hundred or so other pilgrims had a similar problem as we.
The cool breeze in the shade, became a warm, getting warmer, diminishing breeze by the time we got into our room, which was not air conditioned. It did have a fan, so although we weren’t cool we weren’t too warm either. As the sun lowered in the sky, the temperature outside went from 95F at check in to 82F at sunset.
In closing, for this incredibly special day, and as isolated and distant as the Camino may seem to family and friends back home, last night in Cary, NC (or early this morning in Melide, Spain) our grandson won his first professional (ATP-Challenger) tennis tournament championship.
The forecast for today was a high of 100F! The alarm got us going at 5:30 a.m. and we were on our way at 6:00 with the temperature at 61F in the dark.
First light and street lights made headlamps unnecessary as we covered the first mile into the countryside beyond Palas de Rei.Several groups of pilgrims passed us as we headed into the woods but they were out of sight like they were in a race.Our target breakfast stop in San Xulian had no signs of opening at 7:00, as suggested by the schedule on the door, but we waited for a few minutes with no change.A group of high-schoolers passed as we waited…… and anotherSo, we gave up and moved on.We passed a large Hórreo on our way out of San Xulian.We rejoined the dirt path with a more diverse mix of pilgrims and much smaller numbers.Ponte Campaña was a breakfast possibility but Casa Domingo was clearly not open with a padlocked entry gate.Moving on from Ponte Campaña.In spite of our frustration in not finding a breakfast/rest stop, the scenery and manageable terrain made the walk quite pleasant.
We finally stopped after nearly 2 hours and over 3.5 miles at a place in Casanova (pop.8) that in all 7 previous Caminos we’d always walked past, mainly because something sooner had been open. We had our usual breakfast and a nice rest, before continuing.
Terraza Taberna in Casanova.We walked uphill for a spell, then left the partially paved path to a downward dirt path into the forest.Continuing downhill among the trees.Then back uphill, maintaining apparent Camino tradition… for the last half-mile or so to O Coto.Blue hydrangeas adding additional color to our walk.
We stopped at the popular and very strategically located Casa de los Somoza restaurant in O Coto to rest and possibly conclude our walk for the day, after 5.5 miles.
Fresh squeezed orange juice and a Padron pepper snack (for Jim). Padron peppers have lost their “heat” over the past two years and Jim wanted to test the current ones. They still have no heat and Jim now likes his “homegrown” Padrons better than the ones in Spain!
It was 9:30 and our check in time in Melide was 1:00 p.m.
Today we started early to avoid walking in the forecasted severely high 100F temperature.
It was 61F at 6:00 a.m. when we started. When we arrived at O Coto, it was still 67F. We still felt like walking more, so we finished our refreshment and began walking toward Melide, some 4 miles away.
The first village we walked through was Leboreiro and we stopped at Iglesia de Santa Maria and marveled at the simplistic inside wall paintings and decor of this 11th century church.Interior of Santa Maria Iglesia Leaving Leboreiro, we walked over the medieval bridge in Disicabo.
As we walked we became increasingly aware of the rising temperature. Fortunately, much of the walk had large amounts of shade trees that created relief from the hammering rays of the sun.
Walking from one shady spot to the next.More shade.Love that shade!Walking down the hill, through a small wooded area just before Furelos.
We still had a mile and a half to go when we reached the medieval bridge into Furelos. The rest of the walk would be without shade all the way into Melide and our destination, Pención Orois.
To our left was an open bar/restaurant. It was time to stop.
Calling it quits today in the heat.
We walked inside, ordered cold drinks and asked the bartender to call us a taxi.
The temperature when we began walking from O Coto was 67F. Less than 80 minutes later the temperature had reached 84F. Later today, the temperature in Melide reached 105F!!
The taxi driver dropped us at Pención Orois at 11:30. We spent the next hour in the adjacent (air conditioned) bar until getting access to our room at 12:30… 30 minutes early.
The rest of the day was routine and relaxing. But we are also mindful that we dodged a bullet today with the potentially dangerous effect of the sun. This is especially true for pilgrims walking the Camino Frances, during the warm months.
And equally important, we validated our approach of using weather app hourly forecasts, not only to decide when to carry rain gear, but to be aware of and avoid excessive exposure to the heat of the sun.
We rejoined the camino on the dirt path running in front of the albergue .For the past several caminos we didn’t follow the camino, but walked in the edge of the road. It wasn’t as safe but we felt it was maybe shorter and easier walking. But today we decided to give the camino another chance.The camino path from Gonzar to Castromaior.We stayed here on our first camino in 2015.Taking a alternative route from the Camino back to the road.Back on the road after the camino and road routes merged,Leaving the main road and walking toward Ventas de NarónFarm land and nice farmhouses on the road to Ventas de Narón.Impressive farmhouse/estate on the entrance to Ventas (pop.120)
Ventas de Narón was the site of an 820AD battle between Christian and Muslim armies that was the turning point of driving the Muslims out of northern Spain.
We made our breakfast stop at O Cruceiro restaurant and shared our table with a sweet German shepherd and some overly-friendly birds.
Thé owner’s dog came over and laid down beside Jim and relaxed at his feet while we had breakfast.This bird kept begging for some of our tostadas and Jim persistently shooed him away. He must have believed in the concept of strength in numbers as he (or she) brought on reinforcements as the following unbelievable sequence documents.Top left to bottom right was from snapping photos a few seconds after each other, until bird #4 left and the other three followed.After breakfast we continued on this lightly traveled road and side walkway.The walking pretty much looked like this until we reached Ligonde.Ligonde is a charming Galician village with old and some newer homes, including this one.Every time we have walked through Ligonde (pop.64), this house has had a display of seasonal vegetables arranged in a line on the second floor railing. The lady of the house could also be seen working through the kitchen window. Jim would wave and she waved back. Today, the vegetables weren’t there neither was the lady.
Jim inquired of a gentleman working in the yard, “where is the vegetable display and where is the lady in the window and is she ok?”. He smiled and called out, “Rosa!” and added some explanation to her which we didn’t understand.
The lady, Rosa, came to the gate, greeted us and went back into the house. She returned with an offering of some of her homemade fresh cheese, one of Linda’s favorite Spanish foods and we tasted it. It was delicious, so we offered to buy some and she nodded giving us the cheese to take with us. Jim asked how much to pay, she said 3€, so he gave her 5€, which she happily accepted. Jim secured it in his backpack and we moved on.
Rosa of LigondeThe lady just ahead is from Texas, walking her first camino from Sarria. We have been hopscotching with her since our first encounter in Portomarin two days ago.
After leaving Ligonde we passed through Eirexe (pop.23), Portos (pop.2) and Brea (pop.200).
The path was a choice between a dirt or concrete walkway or the lightly traveled road,Linda preferred the road most of the way.Having our tasty lunch and a rest after a long walk at Meson de Brea restaurant.
After lunch, we decided to complete our walk for the day, texted the host of our rented apartment in Palas de Rei requesting an early check in, got it, called a taxi and completed the remaining 2 miles in the comfort of an air conditioned vehicle.
Our room or more like our apartment in Palas de Rei.
There was a DIA market just a few steps from our apartment. Once we checked in and saw what we had to work with, we made a visit to the DIA and purchased items to create afternoon and evening meals/snacks.
Once we got settled and completed some of our chores, we paused to create a late afternoon feed. We unwrapped the fresh cheese that Rosa gave us and paired it with a slice of tomato (DIA) and salt. We also paired it with a generous drizzle of honey, (DIA). Both were delicious and made a terrific snack. Both also went well with the Godello wine (DIA).
It was a long walk today, but we recovered quickly. We’ve also enjoyed our lovely, spacious apartment in Palas de Rei. Tomorrow’s high is forecasted to be 104F, so we’ll get an early start to do our walking in the 60’s.
Stopping at a small hermitage just a few steps from Casa Morgade this morning at 6:55, temperature 59F.
Our plan for today was to walk to Mercadoiro and have breakfast, then call a taxi to take us to Gonzar where we are staying tonight. We stayed at Albergue Mercadoiro in 2015 and stopped for meals several times since. The restaurant has interesting and healthy items… to broaden our Camino culinary experience.
This picturesque pathway is designed to provide better footing when it rains.Stopping to enjoy the scenery and sunrise.This is a climb back up from a very steep dip as we walked out of Ferreiros.
A half mile later, just after passing the sign for Pena, we arrived at the 100 km marker. This marks the beginning of the last 100 km to Santiago Compostela which is the minimum requirement to earn a Compostela certificate.
At this point we had not seen a single pilgrim. So we wanted to take the traditional photo posing at this milestone. So we tried a selfie which didn’t work and finally got creative with another approach.
No pilgrims around to take our group photo, selfie not so hot, so we improvised.Leaving the 100km marker and Pena and on to MercadoiroBack on to the dirt pathJim’s turn to pose.A brief change in sceneryWe returned to the walled way for a bit, then walked on a portion of country paved road. Leaving the road for MercadarioAn impressive, welcoming entrance to MercadarioCurses! No breakfast for us at Mercadoito restaurant.Moving on to the next village looking for a place to eat and call a taxi.Another different walkway to mitigate erosion from rushing water.Looking for another breakfast stop at A Parrocha.All closed up with a charming sign on the door “Sorry, we’re closed”, in English, nonethelesstheless.Next village was Vilacha, At this point we were willing to wait 30 minutes until this place opened at 10:00. But a nice young man saw us approach the gate and kindly opened it and welcomed us inside!We finally had our traditional camino breakfast of cafe-con-leche and dos tostadas. Kudos to the folks at O Remanso for a charming cafe and exemplary hospitality.
We felt so good after breakfast, we decided to walk on to Portomarin before taking a taxi to Gonzar.
Even ET hangs out at O Remanso. Before we walked on, Jim loaned him his iphone to ….A different version of walls followed us out of Vilacha.The path made a few turns among the fields, with Portomarin getting closer.We began with a steep, but manageable downhill section.Then a more gradual slope down to the main road. We followed it to the bridge.We followed this main road for a few hundred yards to the bridge.The “new” Miño River Bridge into Portomarin.For this pilgrim, such a high bridge over such a long, nartow span was a bit unnerving, if not plain scary.The reservoir created by the flood control dam built in the 1950’s required the new bridge.
The original Portomarin is now at the bottom of the reservoir. Critical structures were moved stone by stone to its present location..
To enter Portomarin you either walk all around left or right then up the hill or climb the steps. Linda chose the steps.Then a second tier of steps.Having some OJ at a favorite, routine stop whenever we passed through or stayed at Portomarin.The owner of the Albergue/Restaurant Gonzar.
We took a taxi to Gonzar, checked in at 2:00, and spent the rest of the day doing the usual.
The Hostería Gonzar. Usually packed with pilgrims inside and outside from late morning to mid afternoon, today had unusually low traffic based on our previous 6 stays.Jim contemplating a dip in the Hostería Gonzar pool, but decided against it after plunging his big toe into the still very chilly water.
So, things don’t always go as planned on the Camino. We ended up walking an extra several miles to find a place open for breakfast. We had an unexpected positive experience in Vilacha. We ended up walking from Mercadoiro to Portomarin again, which we hadn’t done since the pandemic. We expected to walk among the hoards of pilgrims again, but remarkably saw less than a dozen other pilgrims during our walk and at the Gonzar Albergue.
On balance it turned out to be a nice, satisfying and enjoyable day for Camino 2026.
Jimandi 