So, we finished it for the 5th time. What now? That’s where we find ourselves…
With our France trip beginning early tomorrow morning, it’s too difficult for us to stop and process our feelings or to make any meaningful assessments or reflections in so short a time.
Camino2023 was in some ways very similar to previous ones but also different. The pace of our upcoming “visit to the vineyards” will allow time to process Camino2023 and to think about what’s next for us and how to gleen the most from this most recent experience along the Camino Frances.
…. So, we savored the wines, French cuisine and relaxing environment of Provence for 30 days. On our trip back to Paris we stopped for a night in Chamonix, France and took in the awesomeness of the French Alps. The next night/day we stayed on a farm east of Leon, France with the Saône river in our backyard. Our drive into Paris the next day was uneventful and after spending a restful night in a modern hotel near Charles DeGaulle airport, we returned home after 91 days.
Our reflections on Camino 2023 continued even after returning to a more normal routine at home in the U.S.
Conclusion and what next?
We discovered the Camino Frances via a book-on-tape, The Camino- A Journey of the Spirit, written and narrated by Shirley MacLaine.
As expected with the small number of pilgrims seen on our walk this morning, we we received a number for our position in line, entered the office area and within 4 minutes were presenting our credentials and after a quick review by an official representing the Bishop of Santiago, we were issued our Compostela for completing the Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances.
For friends and family who have followed us on this latest adventure, we want to thank you for your support and comments and also want to assure you that we are safe and quite well and once again we did not fall off the edge of the earth! More to follow tomorrow.
Last night we reviewed five different weather apps, including Accuweather, WeatherBug, WeatherRadar and WeatherChannel and all confirmed there would be 10% or less chance of rain this morning. (7:00-11:00).
This morning when we got ready to leave CHE, we again reviewed all 4 apps, including their respective radar and again confirmed no chance of rain this morning. So, we included rain gear in our day packs (wise pilgrims that we are) and began our walk.
Within 10 minutes, a very fine rain began, causing us to put on our rain gear immediately to keep from getting soaked and that condition prevailed until we finished walking at 10:30.
Completely baffled by the totally un-forecasted precipitation of the morning, we concluded that what we experienced was not normal rain droplets from the sky from a cloud, that is picked up by radar. We were actually walking in a cloud virtually resting on or just above the ground consisting of a fine mist, not raindrops, all around us … for the duration of most of the walk.
We walked into the hamlet of San Payo (pop.25) where we stopped for breakfast. There were a hundred or so pilgrims in line to order, get their credential stamped, use the toilet. The rest filled the inside tables, except for the one Linda grabbed for us. The outside tables were unused because of the continuing non-rain.
Being the patient pilgrims we are, we waited for the lines to dissipate, then ordered, got our credentials stamped, inspected the restrooms and actually ate our breakfast before the next surge arrived.
We stopped and chatted briefly with the owner. She welcomed us and said we could check in and leave our poles/ backpacks, etc. but our room was still being cleaned and would not be ready until 1:00.
We left our poles (our transported packs had already arrived) and walked another few hundred yards to the village square and hung out at Bar/Cafe A Concha.
Lavacolla ( Latin: “Lavamentula”) literally means “wash private parts.” Medieval pilgrims seldom if ever bathed along the journey and ridiculed Muslim and Jewish enthusiasms for personal hygiene, so apparently took advantage of the small stream that runs through the village to cleanse themselves for arrival in Santiago.
We complimented today’s short walk with an equally easy afternoon in Lavacolla and had our host order a pizza for us, delivered to the pensión’s self-catering dining area.
We’re looking forward to our walk into Santiago tomorrow morning and the conclusion of our 5th Camino, Camino2023.
Santiago was waiting for us this morning as we left our knapsacks in the office of the Turistico Salceda. We exchanged hugs and good wishes and said our emotional farewells for likely the last time.
The drizzle got a little stronger, but still not officially, rain, but Linda put in her poncho. Jim, however, decided the hassle of unrolling his poncho, getting it wet, then having to deal with it, when the rain stopped, etc. was worth the risk.
So, Jim figured if Linda was wearing her poncho, Mother Nature might decide not to get more aggressive and allow Jim to get away without wearing his. And if Jim wasn’t wearing rain protection, the same Mother Nature might, at least, continue the drizzle, justifying Linda’s preventive action.
The Camino took an alternate by-pass path just as we arrived at the edge of O Pedruozo. We continued up main street and prepared for the final portion of today’s walk.
We are staying at Pensión CHE, one of a half dozen or so eating and lodging establishments in O Pedrouzo owned by a guy who’s name, abreviated, forms the letters C.H.E. He is known as “CHE”.
In 2017, we learned the hard way that Pensión CHE is not in O Pedrouzo. It’s a couple of miles beyond, outside the village of Amenal, but only a few hundred yards off the Camino. It’s a nice property, has a big pool (always too cold for Jim to use). It also has no food, only a bar with drinks. If you want food, you order it from O Pedrouzo and have it delivered by a CHE establishment. No other services are near Pensión CHE.
Also, very few people in O Pedrouzo have heard of Pensión CHE as we found out in 2017, wandering for miles and miles around the town looking for it, by asking directions, etc. We ultimately discovered that you must go to Hotel Pensión Platas on main street O Pedrouzo and give them your name and they will arrange for a van to take you from there to CHE.
So, we got to Pensión Platas, checked with the sweet, young receptionist, who spoke reasonably good English, to verify that the same drill to get to Pensión CHE was in effect from 2022, our last stay. She confirmed nothing had changed.
She confirmed the next van would head out to CHE “around noon”. It being a few minutes after 11:00, we found a place nearby to have lunch, our main meal for the day. While eating lunch, he had the barkeep prepare us some sandwiches with take with us to CHE.
The barkeep delivered our sandwich supper to our table as we were finishing up, we walked a few steps down main street to Pensión Plata and met the van, which took us to CHE and that’s where we checked in after a 15 minute wait for our room and spent the rest of the afternoon doing our routine stuff.
At 6:00, we pulled out our self-catered dinner and chowed down before calling it a day.
We walked on the relatively flat path for a while meandering through small neighborhoods of just a few farm houses each. Soon after, we returned to the woods and some uphill and downhills just to make it interesting.
We arrived at Albergue Turistico Salceda at noon and were recognized by Lyudmila Lires, Santiago Lires’ daughter. We were so happy to be welcomed so enthusiastically and to hear that she and her family were well. This is our 5th visit since 2015.
After dinner we settled our bill and chatted briefly with our hosts, wishing each other well, in case we didn’t connect tomorrow morning. The highlight of today was our reunion with two special friends we have made on the Camino Frances.
We stopped at O Coto and had lunch and rested after 8 plus miles and then continued on to Melide.
The Iglesia de Santa María contains an image of the virgin that legend says was found in the nearby fountain when light and a pleasant fragrance emitted. Villagers took the image to the church, but that night the virgin went right back to the fountain. After a few days of back and forth, the locals made the tympanum and dedicated the church to her and the image finally deemed to stay put in the church.
Our room in Pension Orois was larger and newer than the last two visits. Walking the extra miles today got us to our room to checkin at 1:30. After chores, we napped then went to a favorite, Bar Garancha.
Tummies filled we went back to our room and called it a day. 5 days to Santiago!
In spite of the longer distance, today’s walk went well. The sun stayed tucked behind the clouds/fog most of the morning and when it didn’t, the trees provided plenty of shade. The temperature stayed in the high 60’s to low 70’s, helped by a nice, cool breeze.
90% of the walk was on pavement or a sidewalk like dirt or gravel path. We generally stayed on the pavement for more uniform footing and an occasional shortcut. ( a benefit of doing the Camino more than once).
We stopped for breakfast #1 at Casa Molar, an albergue/bar in the tiny hamlet of Ventas de Narón. We have stopped here each of our 5 Caminos, especially for the toast which Linda ranks among the best.
Ventas de Narón was the site of a major battle in 820 AD in which the Christian army of Asturian King Alfonso II (the chaste) sent the advancing Muslim army packing, beginning the the multi- hundred year process that eventually returned Christianity to northern Spain.
Toward the end of our walk we passed a couple who appeared to be struggling. They were from Leon, France and the lady was limping badly. She had apparently injured her ankle during the morning walk. Jim asked if they had any tape for the ankle and both replied no. Jim offered to give them some of our KT tape and explained how to use it to reduce the movement of the ankle and hopefully reduce the pain until they could have it properly treated.
The couple was very appreciative and we bid them good luck and buen Camino. About 15 minutes later, we were sitting at a bar, having OJ when the couple walked by. They both waved and gave a thumbs up. The lady and the man both had huge, smiles on their faces and she was walking without a limp. It certainly made our day, to be able to assist another pilgrim.
Our checkin was immediate when we arrived at Casa Rectoral de Lestedo. We got a light lunch, did our routine afternoon activities including naps and then had a nice dinner in the dining room, served by the relatively new owner who purchased the property in 2018. We stayed here in 2015.
Today was a relief after yesterday’s heat wave. The remaining days will be cooler with possible rain. 6 more days to Santiago!
The taxi arrived promptly at 7:00 and took us to Portomarin where we stopped for breakfast, then began our walk for the day.
Surprisingly, the pilgrim traffic was not as overwhelming as expected.
For sure, there were a lot of pilgrims walking out of Portomarin, as usual, but after the huge numbers we observed yesterday going through Morgade, we figured a similar level of pilgrims would be seen today, especially the closer we got to Santiago. But based on prior Caminos, pilgrim traffic today was normal… busy for eateries and restrooms from 10 to 12:30-1:00, then almost nothing.
Walking into Gonzar we began chatting with Martha. She began by greeting us with “good morning” with only a hint of a Spanish accent. Jim asked where she was from and she said, “Spain”. She asked where we were from and we said United States, then South Carolina. Surprised and excited she said she lived in SC for a year. Jim asked where and she said Spartanburg! We said, well hello neighbor, we live in Greenville. And then she was really surprised, as were we.
It turns out, Martha, who currently lives in Madrid, did a one year study at Wofford, which led to further conversations about Meredith, Drew, future plans, etc. Before we knew it, we were at the door of our Hostal and so we said our goodbyes and continued with our respective Caminos.
It was 10:00, 72F and our room was not going to be ready until 1:30 so we found a nice shady spot on the outside terrace behind the restaurant, away from the pilgrim comings and goings, and had various drinks stretched out until lunch, then had lunch and eventually got into our room at 1:20.
We did chores and Jim took a dip in the pool to get relief from the rising temperature which is forecasted to get to 98F.
Update: the 98F forecast was way off. We’re in the restaurant where the AC is much cooler than our non-AC room. It’s 109F outside!!! A record for this area.
It’s 5:30 and a couple of pilgrims just checked in to the albergue section of the Hosteria having been walking in the inferno all afternoon. They seemed to be fine. The guy asked me if the wine was cold!
We had a light dinner seated at the coolest table available and by the end of the meal were glad to get back to a little warmth in our room. The outside temperature was down to 94F by 8:00 and should be down to the low 80’s by 9:00. (sunset at 9:20).
The forecast for tomorrow morning and the next few days shows a significant cooling trend, so weather should not be an issue for walking from here on to Santiago.
We walked by our favorite place to stay on the Camino. We found Casa Nova de Rente by accident in 2015 and stayed here every Camino thru 2019, when we stayed 3 consecutive days, using it as a base when rooms were scarce in this area. The 400 year old family home is a classic Galícian farmhouse. The family treated us like family, including inviting us to eat dinner with them in their spacious kitchen.
Our room and auxiliary areas is one of the best we have seen anywhere. It’s well thought out and effectively addresses all the needs of domestic and international pilgrims.
After being into our room nearly 2 hours prior to official checkin time, we got showers and did some hand washing of clothes and hung them out to dry just outside our door on provided drying racks.
We made good use of the early checkin but were also waiting for the crowds to dissipate, we hoped, before attempting to get lunch, etc.
When we had lunch at 2:45 in the albergue dining room, the pilgrim traffic was almost nil.
The rest of the afternoon was devoted to resting, napping and blogging.
At 7:00 p.m. we were not hungry, but were a bit antsy, so we walked another 1.5 miles to the 100km marker, took some photos to avoid the crowds tomorrow…