We have mentioned 3 different names for the place we stayed last night.
O Pedrouzo is a small town within the parish of Arca, which is part of the municipality of O Pino. O Pedrouzo serves as a key stop for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago before reaching Santiago de Compostela.
The front of our pención as Linda left the front door at 7:45, 59F,Passing the O Pino municipal building.The restaurant where we had the grilled steak yesterday. The garden store where we got the Padrón seeds is two doors up from the restaurant.This is the health clinic where Linda received treatment for spider bites in 2015.Just a few steps past the clinic, we turned left and were back on the Camino.Typically higher level pilgrim traffic as many who pass us today are planning to reach Santiago this afternoon.Lots of pretty scenery in the eucalyptus, oak and chestnut forests.Walking on the edge of the forest for a bit.Jim took a group photo for this Chinese family we hopscotched. When they caught up to us later, after the photo, the two very young children looked wide-eyed and smiled at Jim, remembering him taking their photo.
We stopped for breakfast at a familiar bar/albergue in Amenal.
Our breakfast stop in AmenalWe watched pilgrims through the table tops as they emerged from the road underpass walking pass the bar.The bartender did a nice job with the cafe-con-leche artwork.After breakfast we climbed a steep hill through a deeply eroded wash/path.We struggled with other pilgrims reaching the top of the hill.Almost there…Back into the forest.These are some of the largest eucalyptus trees we’ve seen in Galícia on the Camino.The path continued a gradual, sometimes steep ascent as we approached the outskirts of Santiago.We finally reached the pinnacle which got nice and flat for a while. We periodically heard jet engines as we began walking around the Santiago airport.We made a left as we came to the freeway going into Santiago at the ornately sculpted Santiago marker, continuing to walk around the airport, still unseen, only occasionally “heard”.The Camino now taking us downhill, after all the trouble we went through to get up to the top.First visual confirmation that we were near an airport.We continued walking around the airport before reaching San Payo.
On the way into San Payo we chatted with a nice couple from Australia, Graham and Jennifer. They were walking their first Camino. They had walked for 41 days from SJDdP. They continued on to Lavacolla and we stopped for a rest and OJ.
Chapel of San Payoinside the chapel of San PayoWe stayed here, in Payo, on a previous Camino.Leaving Payo on pavement we climbed up a long, steep grade and followed the Camino back onto a dirt path through the forest.We walked toward Lavacolla through the woods looking for a way to get to a rest stop before the final 2 miles to Vilamaior.We discovered a passage way through a hedge behind a large, upscale hotel on the highway into Lavacolla.After surreptitiously making it to the parking lot. we followed a restaurant sign and made our way into the lobby as if we belonged. Jim asked reception for the bar and got a suspicious looking nod to our right and we quickly entered and took a seat, backpacks, poles, and all and ordered a Cola Cao.No guilty looks from us, we’re just here for a drink and maybe a visit to the restroom.After finishing our ColaCao, we walked along the road to the Camino exit from Lavacolla.As we rejoined the Camino out of Lavacolla, we felt like we were being watched!The legendary creek where pilgrims bathed: Laffi recorded in the 17th century: “There is a river in a wooded place two miles from Santiago called Lavacolla, in which French pilgrims, out of respect for the Apostle, wash not only their private parts but, stripping off their clothes, clean all the dirt from their bodies.”As you might expect, the Camino was a narrow paved road which became either a steep or not-so-steep climb for the next mile or so, to Vilamaior, our destination for today.The entrance to Casa de Amancio, Vilamaior.A view of the garden and our room door on the far left.Our room.Our meal was served at a table just outside our room door, overlooking the garden. First course was chicken tempura.Second course was pan fried sea bass. Jim forgot to take the photo until we were already digging in.Dessert was a scrumptious cheesecake.Another wonderful Mencía wine we had for our main meal.The view from our table (and room door).
We had a very manageable walk, perfect weather and a relaxing afternoon. It was our first time staying in Vilamaior. We’ve wanted to stay in Casa de Amancio after having breakfast here in 2015, but it has always been booked until Camino 2026.
We left our backpacks in reception for Correos, paid our bill and said our goodbyes to Santiago, then exited Albergue Turístico Salceda out the back gate to take the shortcut that Santiago told us about on our first visit in 2015. Two pilgrims from Russia, leaving the albergue at the same time, asked to join us. We chatted while walking the shortcut and after Jim told them how to merge with the camino path, they walked on ahead.
The two pilgrims from Russia, who joined us on the short cut.Leaving the end of Santiago’s short cut just before merging with the camino for today’s walk.We walked this road for several hundred yards, merged with the camino path as it crossed the road and moved into the forest.We walked on a path like this through several small hamlets… two, of which had places for breakfast, but both were closed.Like many of the hamlets in this area, hydrangeas seemed to be the adornment of choice.We left the forest and hamlets behind and walked along a busy, large truck infested road until finally stopping at restaurant O Ceafoiro, located at the intersection of another busy, truck infested road.Breakfast at O Ceafoiro.Back into the forest after breakfast.Still on the edge of the forest, but following the main road.A small park with a “dry” water fountain for pilgrims.More path along the road.Getting a break back into the forest.Pretty forest scenery dominated by eucalyptus trees.An impressive underpass cut into solid rock.Walking through a couple of tired hamlets with ruin dominated dwellings.
We stopped at an upscale campground with a nice attached bar/restaurant. We unanimously decided to skip the camping part, but did indulge in small glasses of fresh squeezed OJ.
After the campground, we walked down, then up a paved residential road that rejoined the main road into O Pino. The camino crossed the road and headed back into the forest skirting O Pino and O Pedrouzo, aka: Arca.
We left the “official” camino and walked on into O Pino and neighboring O Pedrouzo, where we will be staying until rejoining the camino tomorrow morning.
Walking past the albergue we stayed at in 2015 on our first camino.Entering O PinoLeaving OPino and entering O Pedrouzo . We stayed in the large building on the left on our second camino in 2017.
We texted our destination for the day and got confirmation that we couldn’t get access to our room before 1:00. It was only 11:30, so we went into kill-time mode.
We stopped at a convenient bar/restaurant and ordered drinks and found a seat and table just outside on the sidewalk. We sipped, people watched, greeted passing pilgrims and sipped some more.
Our initial time killing perch, waiting for our room.
Getting bored with the time killing, we got more creative and decided to (1) visit Jim’s #1 source for Padrón pepper seeds and (2) find a restaurant close to our reserved room and (3) make a reservation for dinner.
We stopped here to buy fresh (2026) seeds for Jim’s and Anne’s hydroponic gardens.Fresh Padrón pepper seeds.
We stopped at Arca Gourmet restaurant which is next door to Pención 9 de Abril and had a simple, light lunch, anticipating a heavy, early dinner.
Jim ordered a tuna on toast to add extra B-12 and protein.Our Mencía wine for lunch
We finished lunch at 1:02, paid our bill, walked next-door and checked in and got settled in our room. It’s a fairly modern property, expensive at €94.50, but meets all our needs for today’s visit.
A typical look of being “settled” in our room.
After doing some chores and a brief nap (Jim only), we walked a half-block to a grilled steak specialty restaurant that we discovered last year on Camino2025.
We grilled a large beef T-Bone steak at our table with sides of tomato & lettuce salad and fries. The seasoning for the meat was an oil and herb blend and sea salt flakes.We left no prisoners, only trimed fat and bone, as we attacked this delicious cut of beef. And we thought we were totally sated…… until the waiter placed this delicious version of “chocolate cake” in front of us. And it, too, disappeared in short order and we finished our house “signature” Mencía wine.The wine we had with our steak.
After several very hot days, it appears that the temperature for our remaining days on Camino2026 will top out in the lower 80’s.
Last year, the places open for breakfast for the first 4 miles of today’s walk were limited, so we had breakfast in Arzúa before beginning.
Breakfast in one of a very few open bars this morning at 6:45.Back on the path leaving Arzúa.Pilgrim traffic fairly normal this morning.We made a brief stop to enter our first cello (stamp) for our crediential for today… see actual credential and stamp below. We need a minimum of two stamps each day during the final 100 km to earn our Compostela.This is the current page of our “credential” which documents our Camino. The green stamp (right-center) is the actual entry, “stamp or cello”, we made at the stop shown in the previous photo.After leaving Preguntono we crossed a paved road, went through an underpass of another road, then up a step switchback and onto the path again.Back on the path.Oats on the left, corn on the right.Jim couldn’t help but take photos of pretty scenery all around us.A brief rest and drink at a bar not open in recent caminos.Crossing the auto via.More sceneryA big Hórreo as we passed through a tiny hamlet.SceneryMore sceneryErosion hollowed out section, but pretty in its own way.Neat way to advertise pilgrims to visit.We were the only takers. But, by experience, we know they have excellent fresh OJ. And clean bathrooms.Seemingly docile watchdog. Got louder and serious when a pilgrim tried to get friendly.Nicely manicured section.Just before leaving the path to today’s destination.
This was our 8th stay at Albergue Turistico Salceda. It’s about 1km off the camino path on the outskirts of the village of Salceda.
Lucia welcomed us, literally with open arms when we arrived, then asked us to have a seat while she verified our room was ready. She returned promptly with our room key. It was only 11:30 and check in time was 1:00.
Our first chore was to get showers and gather all dirty clothing and deliver it to reception to wash and dry.
We had lunch in the dining area at 1:00,?then spent the afternoon chatting with Lucia, Santiago and Lucia’s daughter, Larisa when we not in our room attending to our other chores.
For dinner, Santiago offered to cook his specialty, a huge T-Bone steak grilled at our table, with small potato chips, Padrón peppers and a nice crisp green salad, on the side.
It was delicious and impressively presented, sizzling to our table.
Dinner tonight
Larisa helped her mom and granddad with dinner for us and the other dozen or so guests.
Postre (dessert)Our Mencía wines for lunch and dinner.
The whole visit this afternoon was dedicated to getting reacquainted and celebrating the special the relationship we have with this Camino family.
Walking out our “front door” at 7:00 a.m”. temperature 68F.At the top of a hill with Melide and the sunrise behind us.12th century Romanesque Santa María de Melide, as we left Melide.Back on the dirt path, the pilgrim traffic seemed more subdued this morning…… then this…and this… all within a 20 second time frame.For the 8th Camino, Jim has liked this beautiful Galician home……. and the unique mail/bread delivery box facing the street in front of the house,Canopied pathway created by regularly pruned trees.on our way into a forest Linda has been dreading this rock bridge since she crossed it last year. This year we followed a large baby stroller being carried across it.We continued for some time in the forest.Here, we exited the forest, walked along the road for a hundred yards, then returned to the forest.Soon after re-entering the forest we spotted this cute inhabitant.We played hopscotch with this young Spanish family until we reached our breakfast stop.We had a first time breakfast at this nicely layed-out eating area.Here’s the inside of our breakfast stop, Taberna de Parabispo.After breakfast we rejoined the path and continued on to Boente (pop.137).As we walked through Boente, the path became paved and headed downhill to a fountain.The Fonte de Saleta is said to have curative powers.
Just across the main street in Boente from our stopping point is the Iglesia de Santiago.
Iglesia de Santiago.Inside Iglesia de Santiago
Our stopping place was Albergue Fuente Saleta. We’ve stopped here each Camino since the pandemic, for a rest after a 4 mile walk, and to decide: (1) to continue on to Arzúa or (2) to skip the next 4 miles of very steep up and down hills via taxi, then walk the remaining 1.5 miles into Arzúa.
Today we chose the latter.
The couple who owns the Albergue are shown here, he at the bar and she at the table. The other couple at the table are from Switzerland and speak Spanish and German.
The lady owner speaks Spanish and French. Her husband speaks only Spanish. Jim communicates with the owners in French or broken Spanish, whatever works. The owner at the bar (in the above photo) is calling a taxi for us when the photo was taken. The albergue/bar is for sale, so this may be our last encounter.
The taxi arrived in a few minutes and took us to the outskirts of Arzúa, as we continued the walk into the city and to Pención Luis.
That’s Will, from Texas, just ahead of us walking to catch up with his 72 year old dad who walks faster. We have chatted with Will about the Camino, his second, as we hopscotched with each other over the past 3 days. We met again today as we exited the taxi and begin walking into Arzúa
Our timing was good today as we reached our destination before the temperature got too hot. When we began the final stage into Arzúa it was 70F. When we reached mid-town, within a block of Pencion Luis it was 75F… but we found a table and chair outside the restaurant on the Plaza in the shade, where we were comfortable waiting for access to our room.
Our problem was one of a different timing than our walk in the sun. It was 10:30 and check in time was 1:00. After several emails with the property manager, it became apparent that we weren’t getting in until 1:00.
Walking toward Arzúa.Arzúa building wall art.Our “perch” while waiting for our room.A hundred or so other pilgrims had a similar problem as we.
The cool breeze in the shade, became a warm, getting warmer, diminishing breeze by the time we got into our room, which was not air conditioned. It did have a fan, so although we weren’t cool we weren’t too warm either. As the sun lowered in the sky, the temperature outside went from 95F at check in to 82F at sunset.
In closing, for this incredibly special day, and as isolated and distant as the Camino may seem to family and friends back home, last night in Cary, NC (or early this morning in Melide, Spain) our grandson won his first professional (ATP-Challenger) tennis tournament championship.
The forecast for today was a high of 100F! The alarm got us going at 5:30 a.m. and we were on our way at 6:00 with the temperature at 61F in the dark.
First light and street lights made headlamps unnecessary as we covered the first mile into the countryside beyond Palas de Rei.Several groups of pilgrims passed us as we headed into the woods but they were out of sight like they were in a race.Our target breakfast stop in San Xulian had no signs of opening at 7:00, as suggested by the schedule on the door, but we waited for a few minutes with no change.A group of high-schoolers passed as we waited…… and anotherSo, we gave up and moved on.We passed a large Hórreo on our way out of San Xulian.We rejoined the dirt path with a more diverse mix of pilgrims and much smaller numbers.Ponte Campaña was a breakfast possibility but Casa Domingo was clearly not open with a padlocked entry gate.Moving on from Ponte Campaña.In spite of our frustration in not finding a breakfast/rest stop, the scenery and manageable terrain made the walk quite pleasant.
We finally stopped after nearly 2 hours and over 3.5 miles at a place in Casanova (pop.8) that in all 7 previous Caminos we’d always walked past, mainly because something sooner had been open. We had our usual breakfast and a nice rest, before continuing.
Terraza Taberna in Casanova.We walked uphill for a spell, then left the partially paved path to a downward dirt path into the forest.Continuing downhill among the trees.Then back uphill, maintaining apparent Camino tradition… for the last half-mile or so to O Coto.Blue hydrangeas adding additional color to our walk.
We stopped at the popular and very strategically located Casa de los Somoza restaurant in O Coto to rest and possibly conclude our walk for the day, after 5.5 miles.
Fresh squeezed orange juice and a Padron pepper snack (for Jim). Padron peppers have lost their “heat” over the past two years and Jim wanted to test the current ones. They still have no heat and Jim now likes his “homegrown” Padrons better than the ones in Spain!
It was 9:30 and our check in time in Melide was 1:00 p.m.
Today we started early to avoid walking in the forecasted severely high 100F temperature.
It was 61F at 6:00 a.m. when we started. When we arrived at O Coto, it was still 67F. We still felt like walking more, so we finished our refreshment and began walking toward Melide, some 4 miles away.
The first village we walked through was Leboreiro and we stopped at Iglesia de Santa Maria and marveled at the simplistic inside wall paintings and decor of this 11th century church.Interior of Santa Maria Iglesia Leaving Leboreiro, we walked over the medieval bridge in Disicabo.
As we walked we became increasingly aware of the rising temperature. Fortunately, much of the walk had large amounts of shade trees that created relief from the hammering rays of the sun.
Walking from one shady spot to the next.More shade.Love that shade!Walking down the hill, through a small wooded area just before Furelos.
We still had a mile and a half to go when we reached the medieval bridge into Furelos. The rest of the walk would be without shade all the way into Melide and our destination, Pención Orois.
To our left was an open bar/restaurant. It was time to stop.
Calling it quits today in the heat.
We walked inside, ordered cold drinks and asked the bartender to call us a taxi.
The temperature when we began walking from O Coto was 67F. Less than 80 minutes later the temperature had reached 84F. Later today, the temperature in Melide reached 105F!!
The taxi driver dropped us at Pención Orois at 11:30. We spent the next hour in the adjacent (air conditioned) bar until getting access to our room at 12:30… 30 minutes early.
The rest of the day was routine and relaxing. But we are also mindful that we dodged a bullet today with the potentially dangerous effect of the sun. This is especially true for pilgrims walking the Camino Frances, during the warm months.
And equally important, we validated our approach of using weather app hourly forecasts, not only to decide when to carry rain gear, but to be aware of and avoid excessive exposure to the heat of the sun.
We rejoined the camino on the dirt path running in front of the albergue .For the past several caminos we didn’t follow the camino, but walked in the edge of the road. It wasn’t as safe but we felt it was maybe shorter and easier walking. But today we decided to give the camino another chance.The camino path from Gonzar to Castromaior.We stayed here on our first camino in 2015.Taking a alternative route from the Camino back to the road.Back on the road after the camino and road routes merged,Leaving the main road and walking toward Ventas de NarónFarm land and nice farmhouses on the road to Ventas de Narón.Impressive farmhouse/estate on the entrance to Ventas (pop.120)
Ventas de Narón was the site of an 820AD battle between Christian and Muslim armies that was the turning point of driving the Muslims out of northern Spain.
We made our breakfast stop at O Cruceiro restaurant and shared our table with a sweet German shepherd and some overly-friendly birds.
Thé owner’s dog came over and laid down beside Jim and relaxed at his feet while we had breakfast.This bird kept begging for some of our tostadas and Jim persistently shooed him away. He must have believed in the concept of strength in numbers as he (or she) brought on reinforcements as the following unbelievable sequence documents.Top left to bottom right was from snapping photos a few seconds after each other, until bird #4 left and the other three followed.After breakfast we continued on this lightly traveled road and side walkway.The walking pretty much looked like this until we reached Ligonde.Ligonde is a charming Galician village with old and some newer homes, including this one.Every time we have walked through Ligonde (pop.64), this house has had a display of seasonal vegetables arranged in a line on the second floor railing. The lady of the house could also be seen working through the kitchen window. Jim would wave and she waved back. Today, the vegetables weren’t there neither was the lady.
Jim inquired of a gentleman working in the yard, “where is the vegetable display and where is the lady in the window and is she ok?”. He smiled and called out, “Rosa!” and added some explanation to her which we didn’t understand.
The lady, Rosa, came to the gate, greeted us and went back into the house. She returned with an offering of some of her homemade fresh cheese, one of Linda’s favorite Spanish foods and we tasted it. It was delicious, so we offered to buy some and she nodded giving us the cheese to take with us. Jim asked how much to pay, she said 3€, so he gave her 5€, which she happily accepted. Jim secured it in his backpack and we moved on.
Rosa of LigondeThe lady just ahead is from Texas, walking her first camino from Sarria. We have been hopscotching with her since our first encounter in Portomarin two days ago.
After leaving Ligonde we passed through Eirexe (pop.23), Portos (pop.2) and Brea (pop.200).
The path was a choice between a dirt or concrete walkway or the lightly traveled road,Linda preferred the road most of the way.Having our tasty lunch and a rest after a long walk at Meson de Brea restaurant.
After lunch, we decided to complete our walk for the day, texted the host of our rented apartment in Palas de Rei requesting an early check in, got it, called a taxi and completed the remaining 2 miles in the comfort of an air conditioned vehicle.
Our room or more like our apartment in Palas de Rei.
There was a DIA market just a few steps from our apartment. Once we checked in and saw what we had to work with, we made a visit to the DIA and purchased items to create afternoon and evening meals/snacks.
Once we got settled and completed some of our chores, we paused to create a late afternoon feed. We unwrapped the fresh cheese that Rosa gave us and paired it with a slice of tomato (DIA) and salt. We also paired it with a generous drizzle of honey, (DIA). Both were delicious and made a terrific snack. Both also went well with the Godello wine (DIA).
It was a long walk today, but we recovered quickly. We’ve also enjoyed our lovely, spacious apartment in Palas de Rei. Tomorrow’s high is forecasted to be 104F, so we’ll get an early start to do our walking in the 60’s.
Jimandi 