Day: June 26, 2026

Day 31 – Ponferrada to Cacabelos

Walked today: 8.2 mi. Camino’26: 208 mi.

The Ponferrada downtown sidewalk in front of our hotel at 6:30 a.m.
After turning right and walking two blocks through a residential neighborhood, we turned left onto Calle Camino de Santiago.
Interesting building seen from our walk. Do you suppose the architects changed their mind mid-project? Or maybe they changed contractors, then went back to the original?
We entered an apparently less affluent suburb, assumed by the look of the homes and stores and the sidewalks.

We stopped at our usual bar for breakfast, but their fresh bread had not been delivered, so no tostadas… so we moved on.

We stopped at the next bar and placed our order. The nice barkeep and possibly the owner not only confirmed she had tostadas for us, but when we requested “mantequilla y mermelada” (butter and jelly), she inquired “fresa o melocotón”?(strawberry or peach). Overwhelmed, we said “fresa” and quickly found a seat.

Our new camino, barkeeper friend.
After a traditional breakfast, plus a piece of cake and some churros, gratis… we continued the walk along Calle Camino de Santiago.
Further along on the walk, the sidewalks continued to narrow and the mountains became more visible ahead.
At the end of Calle Camino de Santiago in the town of Companaraya, we made an OJ/rest stop at a charming bar/albergue.
Moving on, we passed a relatively new wall art in Campanaraya.
Also in Companaraya, hardware store wall art!

As we climbed the hill out of Campanaraya, we were caught in a wave of 40 high school students taking advantage of the new rule that lets you earn a Compostela by walking 100km anywhere on the Camino Frances as long as you also complete the last stage into Santiago. This was only one of at least 3 similar size groups of Spanish high schoolers we encountered on today’s walk. The process apparently was taking the group 9 days of walking, facilitated by chartered bus transfers between sections that they were walking.

Linda walking up the hill out of Campanaraya among the high schoolers. She the one toward the end with a blue shirt.

After walking among the noises of the city and motor vehicles for nearly 4 miles, once we cleared Campanaraya and left behind by the high schoolers, the silence on the walk along the path and among the vineyards was wonderfully calming.

Back on the path into the vineyards.
The first vineyards we have seen in a while.
Grapes of the Bierzo region, still early in the season but a promise of the exceptional wines to follow.
More vineyards
Walking in the warming sun, just after a shaded walk through a grove of trees.
We could see the mountains in the distance and a slight but insignificant elevation of the path ahead.
The dirt path was left behind as we began the paved road into Cacabelos. The new concrete sidewalk provides a better defined safe area for walking.
Down the hill into Cacabelos.
The Camino entrance into Cacabelos. One of the student groups has stopped for a break off the road to our right.

We walked past the student group on toward our hostal and stopped for a beverage and break for the groups to pass on through. We thankfully sat down at an outside table, because when we went inside to order, another group of about 40 teenagers had totally occupied the inside.

We sat at our table and enjoyed the wait, since we were 1 hour early for check in. Giving the hoards of youngsters time to move on was a good excuse to get off our feet and into the shade with a breeze for as long as it took.

The second group of ~40 moving on.
The end of another wave passing through.
Life is good… no more walking today. Umm! That Colacao hits the spot!
Walking the cleared street through old Cacabelos.
Our destination with some major renovation work going on a few buildings away.

We were able to check in before noon and our backpacks arrived less than a half-hour later. In addition to our routine’s chores, we took advantage of the washer and dryer available for pilgrims to give a good cleaning to all our clothes.

We took a break at 2:30 to have a main meal in the hostal dining area and filled the remaining time before lights-out by: a game of Hand&Foot, blogging, reading and napping.