Day 35- Fonfría to Pintín

Walked today: 6.0 mi. Camino’26: 234 mi.

Walking out of Fonfría (elev. 4253ft) this morning at 7:15, 59F and passing by Casa Lucas, where we stayed on our first 5 Caminos.
The path leaving Fonfria, cattle in the field to our left. The same ones we saw being brought back to the barns last evening.
This conscientious, wolf-like canine placed himself between “his” cows and us until we were safely on down the path.
A mile down the path we approached Biduedo (pop.31), a usual breakfast stop.
We decided to keep moving but did capture Linda and the smallest church on the Camino as we passed by.

We were actually in a hurry to see one of the most scenic sections of the Camino this morning. The sky was clear, so our expectations were high.

Just out of Biduedo we searched for the “view”, but this is what we got instead.
We walked a little further, again hoping for a better result as some of the nearby scenery became visible.
But all we got was thick, beautiful white clouds covering the entire valley below… 2000 feet below to be accurate.
We kept walking, thinking maybe some of the clouds were beginning to lift revealing a view, any view, p l e a s e!
But it was not to be.
Nearing the end of the walk along the edge of the 4000 ft mountain overlooking a picturesque valley over 2000 feet below… it was as if it never existed.
So, we had no choice but to begin the long trek down into the valley, but today, into the clouds.
Down
“Knee wrecking” down
Carefully avoiding a Camino-ending injury.
Until we reached Fillobal, 600 feet below.
A favorite breakfast stop, halfway to Triacastela, unfortunately under new ownership and not the same as before. Rosa, the former owner was known for her delicious pastries and tortillas and provided a welcoming and warm environment for all her guests. Sadly, those characteristics were missing this morning and we disappointedly resumed out walk down the mountain.
Leaving Fillobal, Linda said hello/goodbye to this neanderthal pilgrim.
The path continued down, but had sections lined with trees.
One thing worse than a steep downhill walk is one laden with loose, sharp rocks. Linda adapting by going very carefully and slow.
more downhill
In Galícia especially, many of the paths are also washes the get deeper from erosion after decades and centuries of water runoff from melting snow and rains. This process exposes tree roots in a fascinating way.
Exposed roots of this ancient chestnut tree
We walked through As Pasantes, a very old village with mostly old and a few relatively newer structures and modern automobiles and farm equipment. This canine inhabitant made it clear that this photographer was not to get closer to his family’s vehicles!
The contrast of old and new in As Pasantes.
Walking on to the next village with mountain view along the. way
A first view of Triacastela.
Linda by the 800 year old chestnut tree in the village of Ramil.
Linda catching a breather in Ramil.
Moving on toward Triacastela
Entering Triacastela with the welcome sign and the relatively new municiple albergue in the background
We stopped on the edge of town at this bar/albergue to call a taxi to take us to Pintín.

We ordered OJ (Linda) and ColaCao (Jim) and took a well earned rest for having walked downhill almost totally for 3.5 hours and dropping 2000 ft in elevation from Fonfria to Triacastela!

Our taxi (a tesla) arrived 15 minutes later and took us to Pintín and Hostal Casa Cines. It is our 8th visit.

We were greated with nice hugs from by Ñuria, the manager and owner’s daughter and immediately and given the key to our room, deferring check in, etc.

We had a light lunch in the hostal dining area and returned to our room for the afternoon for chores, etc.

At 6:00 we shared a pizza in the dining room. We had some nice conversation with Ñuria who’s English along with our limited Spanish and translation apps as needed, allowed us to communicate pretty well, we think!

We also had a brief after dinner chat with Tony from Scotland. He passed us on the way into Triacastela and we apparently beat him to Casa Cines with the help of Elon Musk and our driver’s vehicle.

Today finished nicely. Tomorrow will be the first day we don’t transport our backpacks. Our packs will be here in our room, when our tesla taxi returns us back to Casa Cines after our walk to Barbadelo tomorrow… if all goes as planned.

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