We were on our way at 6:55 this morning. It was a chilly 55F.
All was quiet in Villafranca del Bierzo on this Sunday morning as we left El Campano.Walking along Calle d’Agua with 19th century mansions identified by family coat of arms.We passed the pilgrim statue and over the bridge over the Rio Burbia.Looking back toward the city from one side of the bridge.Looking back from the other side of the bridge.Walking past Casa Mendez… we stayed here in 2019.Looking at the Río Valcarce fallsWalking out of the city into the pass between the mountains.A nice paved, elevated walkway to make this section safer than several years ago when there was little or no path.The walkway coming to an end at the Auto Via tunnel.Joining the “barriered” walkway through the pass.On the walkway with serious barriers protect pilgrims.Linda looking for a change from walking on paved path and along barrier to a dirt path.After changing back and at the entrance to Pereje.(pop.39)Pereje is a near ghost town with few occupied buildings. A favorite bar was closed during the pandemic and remained closed until reopening with a new owner in 2025. Thankfully, Las Coronas, was open this morning and seems to be doing well. It has been upgraded by the new owner and is much more charming than before.Inside Las CoronasAn unoccupied and failing structure on the way out of Pereje. The relatively new municipal albergue was also closed and appeared to be inoperative.A view of the Río Valcarce as we left Pereje and rejoined the crash-barrier walkway.The mountain pass is beginning to open up just as we left the crash-barrier finally to enter the paved road into Trabadelo.These massive chestnut trees filled the forest on both sides of the road.Another of the large and very old chestnut trees along our walk into Trabadelo.Stacked lumber from the mill in Trabadelo indicated we were getting close.Crossing the Valcarce River with a view of the back of Hostel Nova Ruta Hotel Nova Ruta
We arrived at 11:00 at Nova Ruta, well before our room could be cleaned. It’s our 6th visit. We went into the restaurant and ordered a ColaCao and sat at a table. The owner saw us, came to our table and gave us a complimentary muffin and patted Jim on the shoulder. He doesn’t speak English and tends to be non-engaging.
After our refreshment, we found a seat in the hotel lobby and the owner’s wife saw us, greeted us emotionally in Spanish and gave us both big hugs and welcomed us. She also speaks little or no English but is much more outgoing.
We don’t know their first names… we have never asked, but it doesn’t seem to matter. We consider what we have with them is a friendship. It’s the main reason we keep coming back.
As soon as a room was ready we were given a key, skipping check in, and shown to our room. Lunch was available at 1:00 so we walked back down to the dining room and were the first guests to be seated.
Jim sighted a bottle of his favorite menci wine and bought it for 14€ earlier, while we had our Cola Cao. We took it with us to lunch and had the waiter uncork it for us.
Nova Ruta seems to have the best restaurant in the area, based on the weekend and evening crowds we’ve witnessed over the years.
Our first course was a nice Ensalada Rusa for Linda. Jim opted for a seafood salad that was unusual but very delicious. The seafood was pulpo (octopus), cod and mussels. In addition to fresh, crisp greens it had green peas, black and green olives and fresh tomatoes. It was dressed with olive oil and a light vinaigrette.
We both had beef cheeks stewed in red Mencía wine with roasted red peppers and fries.The beef literally fell off the cheek bone and melted in our mouths. It paired wonderfully with the Tilenus 2020 Mencía vino tinto (red).
Jim rated our meal 3 stars and gave the remaining half bottle of wine to the owner (head waiter) and his wife (head cook-extraordinaire), who both also love the vintage.
We had a relaxing rest-of-the-afternoon in our room, completing our chores, including having the owner call and confirm our 7:00 a.m. taxi pickup to take us to O Cebreiro to begin our walk tomorrow.
Jimandi 