Today is a favorite walk through the vineyards of our favorite Mencia wines, produced almost exclusively in the El Bierzo region between Cacabelos and Villafranca del Bierzo.
All quiet in Cacabelos at 6:45 this morning.Leaving the “old town” , going out of town.Santuario de las Angustias hermitage.The unusual pilgrim albergue of Santuario de las AngustiasLeaving Cacabelos’s sidewalks back onto the dirt camino path along the road.The path continuing along the road as we pass by the hamlet of Pieros.Leaving the unsafe “path along the road” camino route to the “through-the-vineyards” route.Vineyards all around us with Villafranca del Bierzo in the distance.Vineyards all around us.These grapes are the source of one of our favorite Bierzo (mencia) wines.Loaded with unripe grapes .Walking through the village of Valtuille de Arriba.
Valtuille de Arriba is an interesting village of 85 people with an average age of 75 years old. Most of the homes are abandoned and in various stages of ruin. However, there are several homes that have been very nicely, but only partly renovated with the ruined part still attached. Jim has tried, unsuccessfully, to find out more about the village, which is surrounded by a rich terroir that is emerging as a leading producer and exported if excellent wines.
Renovations in progress in Valtuille.Leaving Valtuille and heading back into the vineyards.Typical camino and criss crossing farm roads through the vineyards.Extraordinary scenery all through the vineyards.Interesting home in the center of all these grapes. Extraordinary view, few windows, an owner, a tenant?…more questions than answers.Closer look at the “house on a hill” overlooking it all.More scenery, Villafranca in the distance.Dirt path ending as we began walking the paved road into Villafranca del Bierzo.Not sure of the implications of this new sign.The downhill stretch from the vineyards into Villafranca del Bierzo.Iglesia de Santiago with door of pardon coming up on the left.The Puerta del Pardón: During a Holy Year, pilgrims who were too sick to continue to Santiago could walk through the door in lieu of completing the pilgrimage and receive the same indulgences.The camino route into Villafranca with Castillo and our breakfast stop, just ahead .The Castillo: Built in 16th century it served as the residence of the Marquises of Villafranca and later as a strategic military site throughout history especially during the Peninsula War of 1819. Currently a private property, public access is limited.Our favorite breakfast spot when it’s open.We sat at these tables outside the Castillo bar. We chatted briefly with a pilgrim from Wales. He had walked 2 caminos before and was going to Santiago. Our accommodation for today, El Campano, is halfway down this very steep hill.The outside of El CampanoRegistration and waiting area for El Campano. It was especially nice to wait in this area until our room was ready.This is the town plaza where we ate lunch. Sevilla bar/restaurant is at the far end of the umbrellas on the left.Ensaladilla rusa“carrilleras de cerdo estofadas al vino Godello” (pork cheeks braised in Godello wine)Flan and ice cream cake for dessert.
Being in the middle of Bierzo wine country left us no choice but to try some new wines.
However, while picking up some snack items at a Dia supermarket he found a familiar wine on the shelf for 5.95€.
It was dry, full bodied, strawberry, tart cherry , chocolate medium tannins, smooth finish, low acidity. Went well with dark chocolate and peanut butter!
A real bargain for 5.95€.
At lunch, we ordered three different glasses of wine to go with our meal.
The first was the first white Bierzo wine we have tried, Godello Campo Redondo. It reminded us of a Chardonay but some notes similar to Pinot Grigot without the pungent follow.
The next was a red, Castro de Valtuille Mencia: fruity raspberry/cherry, oaky notes, vanilla, licorice. dry, acidic, med. tannins. neither soft nor bold.
We also tried a Finca Luna Beberide Mencia: a cross between Pinot Noir and Syrah. Slightly acidic, medium tannins, red and black berries, low oak, very drinkable classic mencia.
All of these wines were keepers. Linda preferred the Godello.
What was also fascinating was the price. We shared 4oz glasses of each. The Godello and Valtuille we 2€ per glass. The Finca was 2.80€ per glass.
We hope Total Wine carries one or more of these. We’ll definitely check it out when we return home!
Convento de la Anunciada. We stayed here in 2017.The view from our 2nd floor room window
Our room is very comfortable. We stayed here in 2025, too. We feel very comfortable in Villafranca del Bierzo, after 8 visits.
Today was a beautiful day, the walk was easily managed and the stay in Villafranca was very pleasant. The temperature stayed in the 60’s during our walk and the forecast for tomorrow is similar.
We’ll continue more into the mountains the next few days, which should help mitigate any rising temperatures in the valleys.
Jimandi 