Day 29 – Santa Catalina de Somoza to Rabanal del Camino
Walked today: 7.9 mi. Camino’26: 196 mi.
Walking out of Santa Catalina at 6:30 this morning.The rising sun gave a red hew to everything as we joined the path out of Santa Catalina.A straight, gradually climbing path was clearly working its way into the mountains.Just before reaching Ganzo (“goose” in Spanish), (pop.30) the teepees of Meson Cowboy appeared. One of the teepees looked like it was being repaired. At full capacity, the albergue doubles the hamlet’s population.We walked into town on the main road, because the potential breakfast/rest stops were more readily accessible.We stopped at La Barraka for our traditional breakfast.
The walk from Astorga (elev. 2864ft) to Santa Catalina del Somoza (elev. 3228 ft) yesterday, resulted in an altitude gain of 365 ft. Today we gained another 538 ft. when we arrived in Rabanal (elev. 3766 ft).
Leaving La BarrakaWe walked past Iglesia de Santiago, disappointingly never been open in 8 walks through. Donation box, sometimes seen on a table outside front door, but nothing today.Rejoining the camino with some crumbling markers, characteristic of the sad hamlet.The path continued with a familiar look and following the road.One of the few turns on the path.The path moved nearer to the road and increased its rate of climb.Another gradual turn, allowing a look up the mountain. Just above the trees is the steeple of Santa María de la Asuncíon of Rabanal. The clearing near the top of the same mountain is Foncebadon.Here’s a look at pine forest hanging to our right along the way.Here we have a choice to walk up the road or follow the path through the woods.On early caminos we took the right path. After the pandemic we opted for the road which appeared less steep. Last several caminos we’ve taken the forest route which has more shade and seems about equal on steepness.Not all shade, but still shadier.Ahhh! le shade!Pretty heather patches along the way.Bail out opportunity of you change your mind,A couple of pilgrims with a BIG but seemingly docile dog.Forest path runs out into the road.Not much path. Bugs seemed heavier on the narrow path, so we stayed on the road.Changing sides to walk into traffic on curves.Our usual liquid refreshment stop. CERRADO! (closed)
When La Candela appeared to be closed, Jim peered into one of the windows and saw a man at the cash register. The window was partially opened enough to inquired in broken Spanish, “when would they be open?” When the gentleman seemed confused, Jim motioned could he buy a drink. The man motioned everyone was sleeping and Jim motioned with fingers walking. The man came closer to the window and Jim asked if he could buy a drink for he and his wife. The man hesitantly said ok and allowed Jim inside. Jim received and paid for two drinks and thanked the innkeeper profusely. A few minutes later Linda knocked on the closed door and asked to use the restroom, and was also invited to enter. The innkeeper then went back to whatever he was doing before we interrupted. Linda came back outside and we both found a table and chairs on the side of the albergue in the shade and rested the next 30 minutes before proceeding toward our reserved albergue still too early to check in. When subsequently pilgrims passed by and saw us sitting beside the building, we responded, “it’s closed” not wanting to betray the innkeeper’s kindness, and they moved on.
Our makeshift rest stop at La Cantela.Walking up the steep street into Rabanal following a group of 20-some teens that appeared from nowhere.We’re usually interested in open-door churches on the camino, seeing the inside. Today we stepped inside of Iglesia de San Jose to take a look.We were surprised at why there were bars and a locked gate preventing further entry.Taking a photo through the bars, the altar retablo was quite impressive as were the side displays. It was worth the look but no one around to explain the locked gate.
We were able to check in at 12:30. Our room has mid-century style furnishings which mix well with old floors and ceilings and doors. The exception is the bathroom which is modern with a large well equipped walk-in shower.
Casa IndieCasa Indie CourtyardReception and stairs to our room.
We ordered our main meal for 3:00 from a sister property’s kitchen, which was delivered to a very rustic dining area just off the Casa Indie reception area.
Today’s walk has typically been a challenge for us. However, the cool air/low sun made the initial 4 miles of our walk fairly easy. But the combination of the brighter sun warming up and the increasing elevation gain in the last mile or so left us more tired than at the end of yesterday’s walk.
Iglesia de Santa María de la AsunciónInside the small chapel before the vespers service.
Tonight we attended a vespers service with Gregorian chant at Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción. The service was a first for us and though its spiritual impact was limited due to the language as well as our lack of knowledge of the Catholic liturgy, it still added a new perspective for this small chapel that we have visited multiple times before.
A nice way to end another interesting day of Camino 2026.
Jimandi 