With the meseta behind us, today we began the slow, steady climb toward the high point of the Camino Frances.
After playing matches until well after midnight, the Padel players and fans must be sleeping soundly as the court was empty and the Plaza was quiet at 6:30 a.m.We love these beautiful murals.We walked past the Palacio de Gaudí.Nearly next door is the 15th-century Astorga Catedral.Just before leaving the old town we passed the Church of San Pedro, originally a medieval chapel but more contemporary in styling after a 1972 renovation Our targeted breakfast spot was not open so we tried the place across the street.Breakfast on the terrace.Leaving Astorga on our way into the mountains.First time in 8 caminos to find the Ermita del Ecce Homo open.the inside of Ecce Homo.We crossed the expressway before getting onto a dirt camino path again.The path along the road just before reaching a Maragato village.
The trail passes through a region of the Maragato culture, centralized in about 40 villages around Astorga. This mysterious group is rumored to be descended from the Berbers of North Africa, who arrived with the Muslim conquest in the 8th century and later converted to Christianity. Maragato men traditionally worked as muleteers, mule drivers who transported goods (especially fish and gold) around the peninsula.
Walking into the Maragato village of Murias de Rechivaldo (pop. 108) on “a red brick road”.A traditional stop for OJ which turned into a ColaCao (frothed hot chocolate) stop instead.Nice vantage point watching and greeting pilgrims as they head up the mountain.When we couldn’t put off the harder part of today’s walk any longer, we got on the path up into the mountains.After a couple of miles we’re only beginning to see an elevation change, because the grade is very gradual.Path mostly unchanged: straight, gradual climb, little or no shade.Arriving at Santa Catalina de Somoza
We found a seat at El Caminante Algergue/Restaurant, tired but not hurting from the walk and increasing temperature.
We ordered drinks and sent a message to Via Avis, requesting an early check in. It was only 9:37 a.m. and normally check in is 2:00 p.m. for the Hostal Rural (similar to a B&B in the U.S.).
After a cool drink and some time to rest off our feet, we received a response from Carlos, the owner, “your room is ready”.
We walked, not ran, the 100 remaining steps to Via Avis, exchanged greetings with Carlos, got the keys and settled in to an extraordinary room and property for the camino, or anywhere.
Walking the final steps to our place for the rest of the day, Hostal Rural Via Avis.our room, Lechvca.World class bathroom with excellent amenities and “towel tree” hanger.Common sitting room and bar and bird watching area.Jim enjoying a familiar Mencia wine from the region, while working on the blog in the common living area of Via Avis. This excellent wine was available in the bar fridge for 8€!Sharing a pizza for our main meal at one of three bar/restaurants in the hamlet (pop.60).
We always enjoy Via Avis… today was our 4th stay. Chores were accomplished with ease and the restful environment was renewing in its effect on our physical and mental wellbeing.
Another great day on the Camino Frances and Camino 2026.
Jimandi 