Day 40 – Palas de Rei to Melide

Walked today: 8.6 mi. Camino’26: 272 mi.

The forecast for today was a high of 100F! The alarm got us going at 5:30 a.m. and we were on our way at 6:00 with the temperature at 61F in the dark.

First light and street lights made headlamps unnecessary as we covered the first mile into the countryside beyond Palas de Rei.
Several groups of pilgrims passed us as we headed into the woods but they were out of sight like they were in a race.
Our target breakfast stop in San Xulian had no signs of opening at 7:00, as suggested by the schedule on the door, but we waited for a few minutes with no change.
A group of high-schoolers passed as we waited…
… and another
So, we gave up and moved on.
We passed a large Hórreo on our way out of San Xulian.
We rejoined the dirt path with a more diverse mix of pilgrims and much smaller numbers.
Ponte Campaña was a breakfast possibility but Casa Domingo was clearly not open with a padlocked entry gate.
Moving on from Ponte Campaña.
In spite of our frustration in not finding a breakfast/rest stop, the scenery and manageable terrain made the walk quite pleasant.

We finally stopped after nearly 2 hours and over 3.5 miles at a place in Casanova (pop.8) that in all 7 previous Caminos we’d always walked past, mainly because something sooner had been open. We had our usual breakfast and a nice rest, before continuing.

Terraza Taberna in Casanova.
We walked uphill for a spell, then left the partially paved path to a downward dirt path into the forest.
Continuing downhill among the trees.
Then back uphill, maintaining apparent Camino tradition… for the last half-mile or so to O Coto.
Blue hydrangeas adding additional color to our walk.

We stopped at the popular and very strategically located Casa de los Somoza restaurant in O Coto to rest and possibly conclude our walk for the day, after 5.5 miles.

Fresh squeezed orange juice and a Padron pepper snack (for Jim). Padron peppers have lost their “heat” over the past two years and Jim wanted to test the current ones. They still have no heat and Jim now likes his “homegrown” Padrons better than the ones in Spain!

It was 9:30 and our check in time in Melide was 1:00 p.m.

Today we started early to avoid walking in the forecasted severely high 100F temperature.

It was 61F at 6:00 a.m. when we started. When we arrived at O Coto, it was still 67F. We still felt like walking more, so we finished our refreshment and began walking toward Melide, some 4 miles away.

The first village we walked through was Leboreiro and we stopped at Iglesia de Santa Maria and marveled at the simplistic inside wall paintings and decor of this 11th century church.
Interior of Santa Maria Iglesia
Leaving Leboreiro, we walked over the medieval bridge in Disicabo.

As we walked we became increasingly aware of the rising temperature. Fortunately, much of the walk had large amounts of shade trees that created relief from the hammering rays of the sun.

Walking from one shady spot to the next.
More shade.
Love that shade!
Walking down the hill, through a small wooded area just before Furelos.

We still had a mile and a half to go when we reached the medieval bridge into Furelos. The rest of the walk would be without shade all the way into Melide and our destination, Pención Orois.

To our left was an open bar/restaurant. It was time to stop.

Calling it quits today in the heat.

We walked inside, ordered cold drinks and asked the bartender to call us a taxi.

The temperature when we began walking from O Coto was 67F. Less than 80 minutes later the temperature had reached 84F. Later today, the temperature in Melide reached 105F!!

The taxi driver dropped us at Pención Orois at 11:30. We spent the next hour in the adjacent (air conditioned) bar until getting access to our room at 12:30… 30 minutes early.

The rest of the day was routine and relaxing. But we are also mindful that we dodged a bullet today with the potentially dangerous effect of the sun. This is especially true for pilgrims walking the Camino Frances, during the warm months.

And equally important, we validated our approach of using weather app hourly forecasts, not only to decide when to carry rain gear, but to be aware of and avoid excessive exposure to the heat of the sun.

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