Day 41 – Melide to Arzúa

Walked today: 5.9 mi. Camino’26: 278 mi.

Walking out our “front door” at 7:00 a.m”. temperature 68F.
At the top of a hill with Melide and the sunrise behind us.
12th century Romanesque Santa María de Melide, as we left Melide.
Back on the dirt path, the pilgrim traffic seemed more subdued this morning…
… then this…
and this… all within a 20 second time frame.
For the 8th Camino, Jim has liked this beautiful Galician home…
…. and the unique mail/bread delivery box facing the street in front of the house,
Canopied pathway created by regularly pruned trees.
on our way into a forest
Linda has been dreading this rock bridge since she crossed it last year. This year we followed a large baby stroller being carried across it.
We continued for some time in the forest.
Here, we exited the forest, walked along the road for a hundred yards, then returned to the forest.
Soon after re-entering the forest we spotted this cute inhabitant.
We played hopscotch with this young Spanish family until we reached our breakfast stop.
We had a first time breakfast at this nicely layed-out eating area.
Here’s the inside of our breakfast stop, Taberna de Parabispo.
After breakfast we rejoined the path and continued on to Boente (pop.137).
As we walked through Boente, the path became paved and headed downhill to a fountain.
The Fonte de Saleta is said to have curative powers.

Just across the main street in Boente from our stopping point is the Iglesia de Santiago.

Iglesia de Santiago.
Inside Iglesia de Santiago

Our stopping place was Albergue Fuente Saleta. We’ve stopped here each Camino since the pandemic, for a rest after a 4 mile walk, and to decide: (1) to continue on to Arzúa or (2) to skip the next 4 miles of very steep up and down hills via taxi, then walk the remaining 1.5 miles into Arzúa.

Today we chose the latter.

The couple who owns the Albergue are shown here, he at the bar and she at the table. The other couple at the table are from Switzerland and speak Spanish and German.

The lady owner speaks Spanish and French. Her husband speaks only Spanish. Jim communicates with the owners in French or broken Spanish, whatever works. The owner at the bar (in the above photo) is calling a taxi for us when the photo was taken. The albergue/bar is for sale, so this may be our last encounter.

The taxi arrived in a few minutes and took us to the outskirts of Arzúa, as we continued the walk into the city and to Pención Luis.

That’s Will, from Texas, just ahead of us walking to catch up with his 72 year old dad who walks faster. We have chatted with Will about the Camino, his second, as we hopscotched with each other over the past 3 days. We met again today as we exited the taxi and begin walking into Arzúa

Our timing was good today as we reached our destination before the temperature got too hot. When we began the final stage into Arzúa it was 70F. When we reached mid-town, within a block of Pencion Luis it was 75F… but we found a table and chair outside the restaurant on the Plaza in the shade, where we were comfortable waiting for access to our room.

Our problem was one of a different timing than our walk in the sun. It was 10:30 and check in time was 1:00. After several emails with the property manager, it became apparent that we weren’t getting in until 1:00.

Walking toward Arzúa.
Arzúa building wall art.
Our “perch” while waiting for our room.
A hundred or so other pilgrims had a similar problem as we.

The cool breeze in the shade, became a warm, getting warmer, diminishing breeze by the time we got into our room, which was not air conditioned. It did have a fan, so although we weren’t cool we weren’t too warm either. As the sun lowered in the sky, the temperature outside went from 95F at check in to 82F at sunset.

In closing, for this incredibly special day, and as isolated and distant as the Camino may seem to family and friends back home, last night in Cary, NC (or early this morning in Melide, Spain) our grandson won his first professional (ATP-Challenger) tennis tournament championship.

We watched it on the ATP app, live!

Braden Shick

Congratulations, Braden!

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