Day 39 – Gonzar to Palas de Rei

Walked today: 9.3 mi. Camino’26: 263 mi.

We rejoined the camino on the dirt path running in front of the albergue .
For the past several caminos we didn’t follow the camino, but walked in the edge of the road. It wasn’t as safe but we felt it was maybe shorter and easier walking. But today we decided to give the camino another chance.
The camino path from Gonzar to Castromaior.
We stayed here on our first camino in 2015.
Taking a alternative route from the Camino back to the road.
Back on the road after the camino and road routes merged,
Leaving the main road and walking toward Ventas de Narón
Farm land and nice farmhouses on the road to Ventas de Narón.
Impressive farmhouse/estate on the entrance to Ventas (pop.120)

Ventas de Narón was the site of an 820AD battle between Christian and Muslim armies that was the turning point of driving the Muslims out of northern Spain.

We made our breakfast stop at O Cruceiro restaurant and shared our table with a sweet German shepherd and some overly-friendly birds.

Thé owner’s dog came over and laid down beside Jim and relaxed at his feet while we had breakfast.
This bird kept begging for some of our tostadas and Jim persistently shooed him away. He must have believed in the concept of strength in numbers as he (or she) brought on reinforcements as the following unbelievable sequence documents.
Top left to bottom right was from snapping photos a few seconds after each other, until bird #4 left and the other three followed.
After breakfast we continued on this lightly traveled road and side walkway.
The walking pretty much looked like this until we reached Ligonde.
Ligonde is a charming Galician village with old and some newer homes, including this one.
Every time we have walked through Ligonde (pop.64), this house has had a display of seasonal vegetables arranged in a line on the second floor railing. The lady of the house could also be seen working through the kitchen window. Jim would wave and she waved back. Today, the vegetables weren’t there neither was the lady.

Jim inquired of a gentleman working in the yard, “where is the vegetable display and where is the lady in the window and is she ok?”. He smiled and called out, “Rosa!” and added some explanation to her which we didn’t understand.

The lady, Rosa, came to the gate, greeted us and went back into the house. She returned with an offering of some of her homemade fresh cheese, one of Linda’s favorite Spanish foods and we tasted it. It was delicious, so we offered to buy some and she nodded giving us the cheese to take with us. Jim asked how much to pay, she said 3€, so he gave her 5€, which she happily accepted. Jim secured it in his backpack and we moved on.

Rosa of Ligonde
The lady just ahead is from Texas, walking her first camino from Sarria. We have been hopscotching with her since our first encounter in Portomarin two days ago.

After leaving Ligonde we passed through Eirexe (pop.23), Portos (pop.2) and Brea (pop.200).

The path was a choice between a dirt or concrete walkway or the lightly traveled road,
Linda preferred the road most of the way.
Having our tasty lunch and a rest after a long walk at Meson de Brea restaurant.

After lunch, we decided to complete our walk for the day, texted the host of our rented apartment in Palas de Rei requesting an early check in, got it, called a taxi and completed the remaining 2 miles in the comfort of an air conditioned vehicle.

Our room or more like our apartment in Palas de Rei.

There was a DIA market just a few steps from our apartment. Once we checked in and saw what we had to work with, we made a visit to the DIA and purchased items to create afternoon and evening meals/snacks.

Once we got settled and completed some of our chores, we paused to create a late afternoon feed. We unwrapped the fresh cheese that Rosa gave us and paired it with a slice of tomato (DIA) and salt. We also paired it with a generous drizzle of honey, (DIA). Both were delicious and made a terrific snack. Both also went well with the Godello wine (DIA).

It was a long walk today, but we recovered quickly. We’ve also enjoyed our lovely, spacious apartment in Palas de Rei. Tomorrow’s high is forecasted to be 104F, so we’ll get an early start to do our walking in the 60’s.

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