Day: September 28, 2022

Day 44- Portomarín to Gonzar

Walked Today: 5.7 mi / Camino2022: 294 mi

We had breakfast at Casa Cines then said our goodbyes to Núria’s mom and dad and left for Portomarín.

Mom & Pop Cines

As we walked through Portomarín the streets and open shops were filled with teens. It began to rain lightly, so we stopped under an awning to put on our ponchos. We walked out of town, across the bridge and began the steep climb out of the valley.

About half-way up the mountain we were engulfed by a wave of about 50 or so really young pilgrims.

the first wave
another wave passing us

For the next mile, more waves rolled past us until finally we were spared further surges of humanity along the path. We actually had the Camino to ourselves for a mile or so…the first time in two days… and we enjoyed it while it lasted.

the last group to pass us

Our walk was relatively short, mostly uphill, a few steep places but mostly gradual.

We shared the path, momentarily, with a couple of pilgrims on horseback.
A Hórreo is a structure where corn, root vegetables and grains are stored in the abundant harvest periods of the year, safe from mice, rats and mould.
calm, sweet calm… with an occasional, light shower
our short, quiet walk through a picturesque forest
Hosteria de Gonzar… our home for the night… but no check-in until 2:00.
Two hours to wait for our room and no where to sit… for about 30 minutes when the hoards finally moved on to parts unknown… hopefully way beyond us.
Finally got into our room at 2:00.
Yes, there’s a pool just outside our window but it’s much too chilly to even consider. Later in the day, a lady braved the water for a few laps… from Germany or Norway, perhaps?

We had a simple lunch while waiting for our room. Immediately after getting into our room, we gathered all dirty clothes washed and dried everything using the Hosteria facilities… 4€ to wash, 4€ to dry. We did our other chores, napped a bit and split a pizza for supper.

We’ve got another week of walking to get to Santiago and we’re anxious to finish. The last part is always the hardest for us because the change in atmosphere and struggle with the crowds is so different than that between SJPDP and Sarria… and it seems to be more true for each of our Caminos.