Jimandi

Walked today: 5.5 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 331.3 miles

We put in our order last night for clear skies and no clouds above 500 ft. Did we say ‘the Camino provides”?

She delivered as never before!

The weather looked promising as we left Casa de Lucas this morning.

The first signs of what was in store was encouraging.

We began heading down from our elevation of 4300 ft when the Camino diverted from the road back onto the dirt path.

But the temptation to have some breakfast overcame us

and we stopped at a charming bar/albergue in the village of Bibuedo (pop. 31).

Just around the corner was the smallest iglesia in the entire Camino.

Jim peeked in through the locked door and saw only this.

Shortly thereafter the oohs and ahhhs began.

and this for an aaah!

And then we got serious about going down the mountains…

O.J.hit the spot while we gave our knees and legs a rest

Just after the albergue at Fillobal we passed a Galícian mountain home, then continued downward, the mountain views soon became obscured by a canopied path or in wet weather, a wash.

We walked by some beautiful old trees at “root” level, wondering how these massive structures continued to survive with much of their roots exposed for so many years.

At the entrance of the ancient village of Ramil was a huge chestnut tree probably several hundred years old.

Finally, after descending over 2100 ft along a 4 mile path down the Galícian Mountains,

we walked into Triacastela (pop. 772), our destination for the day.

Upon reflection, today was our best day so far on Camino 2019. Although we were tired from the walk, the beautiful weather, the magnificent and varied scenery and the satisfaction of meeting the challenge of the descent of nearly half a mile in elevation made it a perfect day.

Our room wasn’t ready when we arrived at Albergue Atrio, so we walked to a nearby grocery store to pick up some snacks and bottled water. We noticed a hiking gear store across the street and Linda found an extra pair of slacks to wear on the cold mornings still ahead.

We checked into our room (40€) at noon and …

couldn’t believe what we saw, which made a perfect day, more perfect, if that’s possible.

Having worked up an appetite from our morning stroll, we had a delicious lunch at a familiar restaurant from our stays here in 2015 and 2017.

We know we’re getting redundant, but our lunch was the “creme de la creme” for our best day of Camino 2019.

Roasted vegetables, a pasta salad and cheese cake for Linda.

Pulpo (grilled octopus) and roasted peppers for Jim

Our wine was the best we’ve had so far, a Mencía,

grown and bottled less than 20 miles from here.

An outstanding day on the Camino Frances came to a close as we finished the blog post for the day and prepared for our walk tomorrow.

Walked today: 7.6 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 325.8 miles

We decided not to take on the 4 mile/2000 ft mountain this morning and opted for a taxi to drop us off at the top at the touristy village of O Cebreiro,

where we began our walk in the clouds.

When we climbed the mountain in 2017, which was indeed as challenge, we took some wonderful photos on the way up, at the top, spent the night, then continued getting great shots the next day on our way to Fonfria.

Today there was no scenery. The ride up the mountain was in the clouds, clouds covered the top and clouds

prevented any decent photos during all but a few fleeting intervals

during the 7 plus mile walk which

hovered between 4000 and 4400 ft.

We targeted Fonfria for today to position ourselves for the walk tomorrow

and to revisit one of our favorite

“habitacions” on the Camino Frances, Casa de Lucas (37€).

Just as we got to Fonfría (pop.41), our destination for the day, the sun and blue sky finally appeared, only beginning to warm the damp, chilly 50F air.

By 4:30, the weather was beautiful, hopefully a good sign for tomorrow.

We had a pilgrim lunch and snacked for supper all in the Casa dining room.

We officially left Castile y León today and entered Galícia, the final region on the Camino and the home of Santiago de Compostela. The Camino sign post outside Casa de Lucas reads 140.5 km, which means we’ve got just over 87 miles to go!

Walked today: 7.2 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 318.2 miles

The skies looked threatening and our weather app said rain in 10 minutes, so we prudently put on our rain gear before leaving the hostal and walking through Trabadelo.

The paved road through the village continued for a half mile or so

and then rejoined the crash barrier walkway again.

We stopped for breakfast at a huge truck stop and hotel complex, took off our rain gear as blue skies appeared, then walked through Portela de Valcarce (pop. 37).

We stopped for a brief visit and photo of a small church.

We also took a photo of some lookalike statues that we”ll try to duplicate and mount on our driveway back home.

We walked through the villages of Ambesmestas (pop. 46) and the fairly large town of Vega de Valcarce (pop. 703). A shop in Vega had Camino handcrafts of every kind you could imagine for sale, but we kept walking realizing anything we bought, we would have to wear or carry.

The further we walked,

the more lush the landscape became with streams, green meadows and the approaching mountains of Galícia.

We finally reached Las Herrerias (pop.44), our destination for the night.

This small village is literally at the end of the road, which becomes a path through the forest, then a steep “wash” up the side of the mountain, then a path again, climbing up the side of the mountain until it reaches the top, some 4 miles later at La Faba and finally, O Cebreíro. We know this, because we did it in 2017.

As soon as we arrived the clouds moved down the mountain and a light drizzle, cool wind and dreary sky forced us indoors for most of the day.

We had a menu of the day in the dining room at 1:00, all to ourselves, save for a late arriving pilgrim cyclist. We then retired to our room and tried to keep warm and dry for the rest of the day.

Walked today: 5.6 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 311.0 miles

We walked out of our hotel just before sunrise on a road that worked its way through a gap in the mountains surrounding Villafranca.

A few minutes later we looked back toward Villafranca into another beautiful sunrise.

We continued to wind through the Valcarce Río valley, sharing our paved walkway with the winding national highway and the occasional overpasses of the A6 autovia. We seldom were distracted by road traffic because there was little of it. We also got an occasional glimpse of the Valcarce Río, among the thick green trees and undergrowth below us on the left.

We stopped in the hamlet of Perejé (pop. 39) for breakfast.

We are nearly always pleasantly surprised whenever we enter these diamond-in-the-rough small businesses along the Camino, 

that cater almost exclusively to pilgrims.

We rejoined the crash-barrier walkway along the highway to Trabadelo.

just before Trabadelo

We left the main road and began walking on a paved surface into Trabadelo passing several stacks of aging logs and more cut lumber either aging or awaiting pickup for places unknown and finally we walked by the lumber mill.

We remember walking by this mill in 2017 and thinking of Timothy as we did again today.

Our hostal was located on the Rió Valcarce just across from the mill. We have a perfect view of the opposite side of the mill from our room balcony.

Our room is very nice with a huge, modern shower… and a baby bed!!! (which thankfully we won’t need)

all for 50€.

After checking in, completing our chores and making a couple of reservations, we had a delicious lunch in the hotel dining room.

Linda’s soup was a very flavorful broth and noodles and Jim’s was Caldo Gallego (white beans, turnips, potatoes, collards, ham, pork, choriso)

Our main course was potatoes, roasted peppers and Carrilleras (beef cheeks marinated in red wine sauce) which was delicious and literally melted in your mouth.

For dessert… … we had natillas (custard) which was also very tasty all complimented by a Bierzo Mencía red wine.

Having satisfied our appetites and completed our chores for the day, we retired to our comfortable room for reading and blogging until the end of another wonderful day on Camino 2019.

Walked today: 5.2 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 305.4 miles

We stopped for breakfast at Hostal/Restaurant Siglo XIX, the same place we had the delicious dinner yesterday. It’s hard to stand out with cafe con leche and tostadas, but they worked at it.

They even threw in some complimentary churros. All for a total of 5€! If you are ever in Cacabelos, we highly recommend Siglo XIX.

On the way out of Cacabelos, we saw several unusual paintings on the walls.

which for now will have to go unexplained.

On the edge of town was the Santuario de las Angustias with an unusual albergue surrounding it.

behind each door is a cabin with two twin beds

We walked on sidewalks to the edge of town

…then walked on a dirt path along the highway

For most of the way we were surrounded by vineyards. Linda said the area reminded her of Napa Valley.

Harvesting the grapes was underway as we walked by workers clipping the bunches of ripe grapes from the vines.

We walked among the vineyards for a while then joined a downhill secondary road feeding into Villafranca del Bierzo (pop. 3,505).

We walked by the Iglesia de Santiago

with its Puerto del Pardon whereby if a pilgrim was too sick to make it to Santiago, he could walk through the Puerto de Pardon and receive the same indulgences as if he had walked all the way to Santiago.

We walked past the Castile

then on into a plaza where we stopped for a second CCL before walking across the pilgrim bridge to the edge of town to Hostal Mendez (44€) our destination for the day.

Our room wasn’t ready at 10:45 (duh), so we ventured back into town to search for some just-in-case-it-gets-cold extra pair of long pants for Linda. But when you are on the Camino you lose all track of time, so we were looking for an open store on Sunday morning. The half mile walk back to town center was fruitless and the walk back to our hotel made it a 6.2 mile day instead of a 5.2 mile day.

Our room was ready when we got back and Linda’s backpack via Jacotrans was waiting for us, so we did our chores, then headed back to town (where the main eateries were) for lunch.

We had pizza for lunch and while we waited, we ordered 4 glasses of 4 different white wines all grown and processed within a few miles from here. After careful tasting, scoring and ranking the four wines, we concluded that while these were all good, we much prefer red wines.

After two delicious pizzas and our wine tasting, we walked back to our room, making this a 7.2 mile day, and settled into our room for the rest of the day.

And did we mention we are on the 3rd floor, which is 4 levels above ground and that wifi above second floor is non-existent? So simple tasks such as blog uploads, checking mail, etc are a real burden not to mention climbing up and down stairs.

Another great day on the Camino Frances.

Walked today: 8.2 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 300.2 miles

There are two Camino routes through Ponferrada, the one which is “recomnended” that goes around the city, which we walked in 2015 and 2017 and the route through the city, which we took today.

We thoroughly enjoyed the walk through the city.

We made a left turn a few blocks from the hotel and began walking in none other than, Calle (street) Camino de Santiago.

Calle Camino de Santiago was straight, no turns, until it merged with the other Camino route some 5 miles later.

The walk was very pleasant with wide sidewalks on both sides of the road. We passed attractive, architecturally diverse, residential communities unlike we have seen anywhere in Spain, on or off the Camino.

We stopped in the suburb of Fuentes Nuevas in a very nice bar next to a children’s park, Parque de Pablo Picasso, and had breakfast.

Up to this point we had seen very few pilgrims on the “non-recommended” route.

We continued into the town of Camponaraya, where the two Camino routes merged and stopped for a second CCL. We then walked through the older part of the village and the pilgrim traffic increased dramatically.

This morning we became more aware of the Bierzo region with its temperate microclimate, ideal for viticulture. The scenery is green with vineyards. The mountains of Galicia loom ahead.

Located in the northwest corner of Castile and León, bordering Galicia, Bierzo is known especially for it’s unique Mencía grapes, a relatively new variety and the resulting wines that have been gaining in importance in the wine world.

We walked among the vineyards for a few miles before entering the town of Cacabelos (pop. 5,495).

This is our third visit to this charming Camino town, that in Roman times served as an administration center for gold mining.

We staying in Hostal La Gallega (46€).

We had our meal for the day at lunch. It was delicious. First course was gazpacho for Jim and Lacón con Pimientos for Linda.

2nd course for Linda was Pollo al curry al con arroz and for Jim, Lubina con salsa de piquillo y ensalada.

We also had a chocolate tarta and tasted a glass of wine of two difference Bierzo Mencía crianza red wines of the region.

We made a visit to the Iglesia Parroquial de Nuestra Señora de la Plaza, consecrated in 1108, which has seen many renovations over the centuries since, was beautiful inside

with an impressive collection of religious statues and icons.

With a good morning walk behind us, a sampling of Camino history and art, a tasty lunch in our tummies complemented by a sampling of two good wines, there was nothing left to do, but retire to our hotel and savor the day into the night.