Day 20 – Boadilla del Camino to Villarmentero de Campos

Walked today:10.3 mi. Camino’26: 137mi.

Leaving Boadilla at 6:30 a.m.

Late yesterday afternoon, we received an email, in Spanish, from the owner of today’s destination in Población de Campos. She said that she had overbooked and did not have a room for us tonight. She apologized and said she was looking for another place for us to stay.

She explained that because of a family emergency she had been out of town and her substitute had made the booking error.

Rather than waiting to see when and what she might find for us, Jim opened the Booking. com app and searched for a new place for us to stay that would not severely alter our walking plans for today, which was 7.5 miles.

Fortunately he found a property and immediately booked it. Next, he located Eduardo, who was checking in other guests. He asked Eduardo for help with contacting the backpack transport company, as we knew our level of Spanish would make problem solving more difficult than it needed to be. So, Eduardo called his “friend” with the transport company and arranged for this morning’s pickup to take our packs to the new location and not the original one listed on our 45 location itinerary… and he also explained that the pick-up of our packs tomorrow morning needed to be at the new location and then taken to the next location on our original itinerary. Can you see why Jim sought E’s help in “fixing” the problem?

So, we had our fingers crossed as we began today’s walk, leaving our backpacks in the En El Camino pickup point and hoping we would see them again, particularly in today’s new destination.

Thankfully, today’s walk was on flat, easy-to-walk-on surfaces.

Walking among the fields adjacent to Boadilla.
Wheat and barley forever
After a mile walk, the path began running beside the Canal de Castilla. Built 150 years ago to transport grain from the region to market, today is used as a water source for the irrigation systems for the various crops of the area.
After two miles of the canal, we reached the locks just outside Frómista. Linda is crossing the dam and beginning of the now inoperative locks system..
Walking into Frómista passing the train station.
Jim stopped at a favorite market to restock our snack stash.
Stopping at a favorite bakery for fresh squeezed zuma naranjá (orange juice) and breakfast supplement, with St Martin church peaking around the corner.
The beautiful Romanesque Iglesia de San Martin de Tours.
Walking on a camino sidewalk on the way out of Frómista.
We followed, then chatted with these pilgrims from the UK, walking and wheelchairing at the rate of 12 miles per day.
Just leaving Frómista and passing over the Auto Via.
The camino paralleled this secondary road for the next 2 miles.
Our original place to stay tonight was in Poblacion de Campos, but today we walked on past.
Just outside of Población we examined this map detailing an alternate route. On all of our past caminos we took the road route, but today, to gain some shade for our longer walk, we opted for the path along the river.
Entering the alternate path.
Initially, it wasn’t shady, but seemed like walking in a flower garden,
Ahh, some shade!
Where did the shade go?
Linda can find a good bench just about anywhere.
Arriving at the bridge, crossing from the alt. route into Revenga de Campos.
Back onto the traditional camino path along the road and exposed to the strengthening heat from the sun’s rays. We had about 1.5 more miles to get to our destination.
The tiny hamlet of Villarmentero de Campos (pop. 11).

We walked up to the Casona Doña Petra at 11:30 a.m. after a 10 plus mile walk. The innkeeper was locking the front door and getting ready to leave when we told her we had a reservation and she immediately reversed course and checked us in.

Outside Casona Doña Petra.

We unlocked our room door and dropped, exhausted onto the inviting king bed, sweating wet and all.

Our room in Casona Doña Petra

A few minutes later we began getting acquainted with the room offerings and the common areas in the inn. Until two more guests checked in, an a hour or so later, we had the inn to ourselves.

The surprise outside our window.

Our backpacks hadn’t arrived yet so we did what chores we could without them. This included soaking our poor overworked feet in the too-cold-to-swim-water in the pool.

We decided to have a sandwich lunch since no other food option was available until dinner. The innkeeper/chef prepared us a triple-decker ham and cheese sandwich for lunch and served it to us on the terrace overlooking the pool.

Lunch on the terrace overlooking our pool.

We rested and blogged until about 2:00 when we became concerned about not yet having our backpacks. The air tags in each of our backpacks indicated our packs were still in Boadilla. We were in the process of contacting Eduardo when our packs were finally delivered at 2:20.

After a brief and quiet celebration (in the absence of additional guests, the innkeeper had fallen asleep on a common area sofa and could be heard snoring loudly throughout the inn) we took our packs to our room, successfully getting us back onto our original itinerary.

With all our stuff finally in one place, we proceeded to complete our chores for the remaining time before dinner.

Our dinner was fried chicken, mixed salad and fries. We were seated in the dining area with the other two guests. They were two ladies who knew each other and lived in Switzerland. One was formerly from Italy. the other from Hungary. They both spoke English and shared Camino experiences until retiring to our rooms for the evening.

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