Day 55- O Cebreiro to Fonfria

  • Distance Today                          7.3 mi
  • Distance Camino 2017         401.9 mi

Today we walked over 7 miles with ups and downs but we stayed within the 4000-4300 ft elevation, therefore not coming down from the top of the mountain range but just hanging around on top.

The views were still incredible with the addition today of white cotton-like clouds filling the valleys and slowing exposing the mountains as the sun in a clear blue sky, slowly warmed the chilly morning air.

Our breakfast stop occurred in Linares after just under two miles of walking from O Cebreiro along a very nice gravel and sand pathway that ran parallel to the road with only minor ups and downs along the way.

After Linares, we alternated between pavement, parallel paths and an occasional short walk through woods or an unpaved farm road.

Next, as we reached the pilgrim statue at Alto de San Rogue (4167ft), it was surrounded by a film crew of sorts and a actress performing dance and acrobatic routines for some type of Camino promotion or documentary. We watched for a few minutes, took a few of our own photos and moved on.

Another couple of miles later we walked through a small hamlet and then climbed a very steep hill, probably a couple hundred feet high which topped out at Alto de Poio (4386ft) where we stopped at a conveniently located bar with deliciously fresh squeezed orange juice.

From there we walked just over two miles, gradually dropping a couple hundred feet in altitude before arriving at Casa Lucas (37€) in Fonfria (pop.41).

Completely offsetting our negative experience yesterday in O Cebreiro, our Casa Lucas hostess was warm and helpful.

A surge of pilgrims arrived at the Casa Lucas bar when we did and had overwhelmed the owner with drink and food orders. Jim told her we had a reservation but we were in no hurry and could check in when she worked through the deluge.

Later as she was about to check us in, Jim mentioned that we wanted to stay tomorrow night near Tricastella, but had been unable to find a place. ( claimed all rooms were “completo” and several calls to non-Booking properties yielded no vacancies.) Our hostess, acknowledged our concern and even before we had checked in, she made a call to another property just 2km outside Tricastella that had a place for us and they even offered to come get us once we arrived in Tricastella so we wouldn’t have the walk the extra distance. It was also priced at 32€.

We were welcomed by the owner’s assistant another nice young lady (perhaps her daughter?) who showed us to our room in this recently remodeled albergue. Our room is spacious, clean, new and has a wonderful view.

We also had a nice lunch and dinner at Casa Lucas. At dinner we ate and had interesting conversation with two ladies from France who owned a B&B on the French Camino from Le Puy to SJPDP and were walking from León to Santiago.


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