Day 36 – Hospital de Órbigo to San Justo de la Vega

Walked today: 7.9 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 262.3 miles

Our internet access was weak and sporadic yesterday and we were lucky to upload it and publish what we did.

One omission was an interesting chat we had with two 40 something Spanish brother-in-laws, who were only able to walk the Camino for 6 days per year because that’s all the time they had available, with work schedules, family obligations, etc. We met them between Villadangos and Hospital and they were planning to go beyond Hospital before stopping for the day. At that rate it will probably take them 5 years to earn their Compostela.

Very few pilgrims walk the full Camino from SJPDP to Santiago at one time, actually only around 10%. Most of the pilgrims we have met while walking the Camino are only walking a portion of the Camino at a time.

Last night we were looking at our walk for today and Linda discovered that there were two routes to choose from. We’ve have walked the “preferred” route twice before, which will be 10.5 miles. We had never noticed the so called “road route” before. We had already walked along the road a lot the past few days, so Jim was reluctant. Linda said, ” is it any shorter?” After checking the guide and carefully converting the km’s to miles, etc. Jim said ” the road route is nearly 3 miles shorter.” We voted, our bodies voted and 4 to 0 we opted for the road route. (Have you noted a trend developing on Camino 2019?)

The “road” route started out like this…

… and soon became this..,

Because this is not the “preferred” route, most of the 300,000 pilgrims each year don’t walk it, resulting in a sometimes overgrown path…

…but it wasn’t all that bad.

It’s funny how car and truck noise just becomes normal and blends into nothingness and becomes less and less annoying and other thoughts, mental songs or just the new unseen sights and feelings overtake you and create another, new Camino experience.

Today’s walk was good because we got to see a “new” part of the Camino Frances.

The path to the left of the highway was the Camino

We still had hills to climb, but they were different hills.

And we eventually reached the top..,

And walked on a different surface.,,

“preferred” route coming in from the center, ours on right

And finally merged with the ” preferred” route at ….

Crucero de Santo Toribio with San Justo in foreground, Astorga in background and mountains beyond

Crucero de Santo Toribio named for the 5th-century bishop of Astorga who was said to have fallen to his knees at this spot when he was banished from his beloved city.

This view of the Irago Mountains confirmed that we are leaving the Meseta after over 150 miles.

We walked down into San Justo de la Vega (pop. 1875) stopped at Bar El Caño and had a mid-morning CCL and a nice break before going on to Hostal/Albergue Juli (50€).

Our very nice room has been recently upgraded, especially the bathroom with a spacious shower. It has a balcony overlooking main street and the continuous pilgrim traffic, mostly headed for Astorga for the night. We stayed here in 2015.

We opened the balcony door to cool off the room with the cool morning breeze, but closed it after an hour when it was apparent that too many of the local flies wanted to join us. Jim then proceeded to escort the unwanted visitors out, peacefully or violently, whatever it took.

We prefer the towns and villages just before or just after the primary pilgrim stops, which are less crowded, less expensive and more like real Spain vs tourist Spain.

We extended our emerging habit of lunch/dinner at mid-afternoon with typical 1st and 2nd courses but enjoyed delicious new desserts of homemade yogurt and tiramisu, prepared by the young owner/ chef of Hostal Juli.

A restful afternoon, became evening and a nice end to another day on the Camino Frances.

Day 35 – Villadangos del Páramo to Hospital de Órbigo

Walked today: 7.1 miles

Walked Camino 2019: 254.4 miles

Today was a continuation of walk-along-the-road Camino.

We stopped for breakfast at a familiar albergue in San Martian del Camino, known for frequents visits from extraterrestrials, so we were not concerned when we observed an alien spacecraft hovering over a village building, but walked, hurriedly through the village (pop. constantly changing).

After nearly 7 miles, we walked by an impressive looking water tower (we think) on the outskirts of Hospital de Órbigo (pop. 1031)

A water tower ?

We walked directly onto the landmark bridge for this medieval town.

El Paso Honrosa #1
El Paso Honroso #2
El Paso Honroso #3

El Paso Honroso #4

El Paso Honroso #5

The impressive Gothic bridge over the Río Órbigo is the site of a legendary medieval jousting competition. Don Suero de Quiñones, a wealthy Leonese knight, was rejected by the woman he loved. In his heartbreak, he locked his neck in an iron collar and swore he would not take it off until he had defeated 300 knights in jousting. The call went out, and knights from all over the kingdom came in the Holy Year of 1434. Quiñones succeeded in his quest, freeing him from the torment of love. He took off the collar and made a pilgrimage to Santiago where he left a bejeweled bracelet, which can still be seen in the cathedral museum. The bridge became known as El Paso Honroso “the Honorable Pass.”

We stopped for fresh squeezed orange juice at a restaurant/hostal at the opposite end of the bridge in Hospital de Órbigo before walking a few hundred more yards to our room in Albergue Encina.

We had lunch today at a nice local restaurant and think its time for you to join our culinary experience.

Here is the menu we were presented with. No one speaks English and none of the items in the menu show up in itranslate.

our menu

What did we order and who got what?

That should keep you busy until our next post.

Buen Camino!