We waited for the rain to stop before leaving our apartment for a usual breakfast spot in Portomarin. The forecasts all indicated we had a non-rain window from 9:30 to 11:00.
Breakfast at Bar Gonzar in PortomarinThe view of the reservoir covering old Portomarin from Bar GonzarTwo showers occurred and then stopped while we had breakfast. When all was clear, we began walking down from Portomarín to cross the bridge going out of town.We walked along the river below us, then across the bridge then began the long climb up the Camino path.near center photo you can see a line of pilgrims walking toward the multi-storied house and up the mountain
As soon as we began the climb out of town another shower started and we buttoned up the ponchos. We did this off and on for the entire walk to Gonzar. All of the showers were only 5-10 minutes in duration, but were enough to completely soak us if we didn’t have our ponchos on. Once the shower stopped, we got too warm in the ponchos, so we unzipped and even removed them, then had to quickly put them back on again to stay dry.
The on and off rain showers got to be a real nuisance and interferred with what could have been a more enjoyable walk.
This was the long incline we took out of Portomarin.Amy’s trees ( Jim’s daughter did a painting of these trees which is hanging in Jim’s office among Camino memorabilia.)looking back at Amy’s trees from a “different perspective”The path paralleled the local, but busy highway much of the waya welcomed deviation from walking right next to the highway.a huge horreo in the yard of a resident in ToxibóA wet walk through this forrest giving us a break from the road.Pilgrims were out in large numbers todaypilgrims sometimes ride horsesThe final section of path along the highway has an actual railing to protect pilgrims, as we walked to our home for the afternoon and evening.A large contingent of pilgrims, mostly teens, had arrived ahead of us.the line to use the women’s toiletpilgrims gathering to get back to walkingtables starting to become available as the pilgrim group began to leavethe pilgrim hoards can be seen lining the highway as they vacated the restaurant of Hosteria de Gonzar.
When the pilgrim wave receded, it was 11:45 and Jim approached the manager as asked when we could checkin. He was told, 2:30. Ouch! So, we decided to have a leisure lunch, while we waited. The hours for food availability were until 4:00, then reopen from 6:30-9:00. We decided on pizza, but were told, pizza was not available until 2:00!
So, we ordered a Colacao and sipped it for an hour. Seasoned pilgrims must learn to be patient and conform to Camino norms, so we otdered a beer and a glass of fresh squeezed OJ at 1:30 and sipped again, slowly while reading, blogging, seething and being patient. At 2:00, Jim ordered a pizza. The owner responded in an un-understandable Spanish that he was going to give us a “primero” checkin and if we would come back after 2:30, we could order pizza. He also agreed to reduce our 4-bed room with ensuite bath (which was all that was available when we booked) from 78€ to 55€.
We immediately agreed to all terms, paid for the room, took our room key, gathered our packs and headed quickly to our room.
The rest of the afternoon went off without a hitch, including a pizza lunch and a green salad with goat cheese and walnuts. We picked up on our routine and passed the remainder of the day in our 4 bed room!
While the forecast still called for rain, it was not supposed to be as continuous as yesterday. so we started out without our rain gear.
We stopped briefly to look through the Rente gate in case someone was out and about. We have special memories of our stays here and savored the warm feelings as we walked on.
This section of the Camino from Barbadelo to Morgade is among our most favorites. In a relatively short span of 6 miles it contains a wide range of scenery, colors and terrain. it’s not overly challenging which allows an observant pilgrim to take it all in, if he or she wishes to. We walked through farms, hamlets, neighborhoods, pastures and forests. We walked over a variety surfaces: mud, stone paths, pavement, ivy covered stonewalls along dirt paths and concrete/graveled grades for traction. Jim found himself taking it all in and snapping photos not wanting to miss anything.
The rain started again after a half hour into the walk and rain gear came out.A relatively new stop that offers only light snacks and restrooms at our halfway point.a pumpkin patch and healthy looking gardenPilgrims were out in force this morning.Pilgrims, pilgrims, pilgrims
The morning was going really smooth. The rain became intermittent and very lightly, not really very bothersome at all.
We got to Morgade at 11:30 and got in line to check in. When it became our turn, our name was not on the reservation list. We said there must be a mistake and Jim pulled up the email we received from the property we received, back in April, confirming our reservation. It was clearly in order with one minor detail, it was for the 25th… of August!! And the receptionist pointed out that today was the 25th of September.
So, we went from getting to check in early to not having a place to stay for the night.
The receptionist began checking for nearby vacancies but with no success. Jim opened the Booking.com app and began looking in parallel. He found only one property available in Portomarin, 6 miles away. He quickly booked it and as soon as he had a confirmation, he asked the receptionist to please call us a taxi to take us there.
After exhausting the list of 6 available taxi drivers in the area, another hotel staff member offered another name and when contacted he said he could pick us up in 10 minutes.
The last detail was our transported packs, which were on the way to the Morgade hotel and we now needed them in the new Portomarin location.
Jim and the receptionist began to search the delivered backpacks and luckily, ours had already been delivered and Jim quickly picked them up and carried them to our pickup point for the taxi.
A few minutes later, we were in the taxi with all our stuff, on the way to Portomarin.
The taxi driver delivered us to the property in Portomarin, let us out and drove on. We went inside to check in, but quickly found out it was the wrong property. So Linda found a seat inside the wrong property reception with our two large packs and our two day packs while Jim took off to find the correct property.
A half hour later and an extra mile of walking for the day, Jim located the correct property, checked in, returned to reunite with Linda and our stuff and we both lugged our stuff to Le Casa de Manuel, an apartment, in Portomarin.
Linda in the main square of Portomarin with the Iglesia de San Nicolas in the background.
With all the excitement over and things beginning to get back under control, we decided to find a place to eat, leisurely, before taking on the routine chores for our typical Camino afternoon.
Linda ordered spaghetti and Jim ordered white asparagus and Padron pappers.the Padróns never had a chance!!’Our stop for lunch was loaded with pilgrims.
Our afternoon and evening went smoothly. Well we did have one more issue. When Linda got into the shower, she had no hot water. Not that the hot water was not hot, there was no water coming out of the hot water spigot… in the shower, in the bathroom sink or the kitchen sink. We contacted the owner after several attempts via Whatsapp and telephone calls and a couple hours later water began to flow out of the hot water spigot and it was actually hot, too. Showers proceeded along with other “chores”.
Because we had a kitchen in the apartment, we sliced the tomatoes we were gifted in Pintin and had carried, carefully without bruising for two days and had a late afternoon snack, Yum!
And so another interesting day on the Camino Frances came to a close.
Today’s walk can be summarized in one word, “rain”
It began raining 5 minutes after we walked out of Casa Cines and continued as showers or a soaking drizzle until we reached Barbadelo, five hours later.
We got out of the rain for breakfast just outside of Sarria. We got relief in a hiking gear store while buying Linda a poncho that didn’t leak. We got a 5 minute break in a small grocery store to replenish our snack supply. We made a rest stop/ Colacao break also in Sarria. Linda waited under an awning in Sarria while Jim hunted for an ATM to replenish our stash of €’s.
All the rest of the morning, we walked in the rain.
We only snapped a few photos, to keep from soaking Jim’s iPhone, but the scenery was limited for us too, as we were looking at our feet most of the way, dodging puddles.
Joining the dirt path as we left PintinThe Camino took us through this area of forest before crossing a local roadAnother section of forest shortly after leaving Pintin on the way to SarriaSome construction was obstructing the Camino as we walked through this small hamlet, but the workers waved us through.Walking along the road between Pintin and SatriaCrossing a medieval bridge as we left Sarria. Linda wearing her new poncho. We trashed the old on on the way out of the store.This was near the end of a steep hill after Sarria and just before Barbadelo
To add to the fun, when we got to Barbadelo, our albergue had a strict check-in time of 1:30, so we has an early lunch/dinner in the albergue restaurant to kill time while waiting for our room to be ready. The restaurant was also dry and a little warmer than in the rain.
We finally checked in at 2:00, did our chores and hibernated in our room for the rest of the day, to stay warm and dry.
To go along with the rest of the day’s happenings, our room is the smallest we have had so far and we share a bathroom with three other rooms… so, limited space to hang our wet things to dry overnight. We do have a portable heater, though.
The forecast for tomorrow is “more of the same!” ☹️
The sky was clear when we left Fonfria this morning, so we were hopeful that the spectacular views of today’s walk would be at their best.
The view as we walked out of FonfriaOur usual breakfast stop was about a mile into our walk in the Galícian hamlet of Biduedo (pop. 37)A routine breakfast at Casa Quirogaa typical Galícian home in BiduedoOops! Where did all that fog come from?Nothing to see but fog this morningThis is what it looks like without the fog (2023 blog photo)Literally walking in the cloudsNot much of a viewa hint of clearingCattle grazing just off the path… no hint of a vast valley belowa mountain emerging first view of the valley as we begin a major descent heading down the mountainmore clearing as we descendalmost clear as we approach Fillobal
We stopped at a favorite bar in Fillobal. The friendly owner has been very nice to us every time we stop. She recognized us today. Our last visit was a year ago!
She recognized Jim as he took this photo.Her delicious tortilla and apple tartes are specialties of the house and homemade by our friend.
Rested from our descent to Fillobal, we said our goodbyes and continued on toward Tricastella.
This was just after leaving Fillobal for the final descent into TricastellaA typical look to the final 2 miles into Tricastella very old chestnut tree in RamilOur welcome into Tricastella Our stopping point for the day in Tricastella.
We arrived in Tricastella after a 6 mile, 3000 ft elevation descent from Fonfria. After a Colacao and a brief chat with two pilgrims from Nova Scotia, we called a taxi.
The taxi ride followed the Camino, a narrow, 1 1/2 lane road for the 7 miles from Tricastella to Pintin, our destination for the day.
This will be our 6th visit to Casa Cines, a small hotel in this hamlet on the Camino just a few miles before Sarria.
This family-owned gem has been like a home on the Camino for us. Núria, the manager has been a friend and an excellent resource to help us with a variety of needs beginning with our first visit in 2015. She and her family have treated us like family… a most cherished experience of the Camino.
the calm at Casa Cines in late afternoon after pilgrims have moved on to Sarria and beyondCasa Cines in late afternoon
Tonight we had dinner in the restaurant. Jim ordered a pizza and Linda went with a mixed salad, followed by chicken and fries. The tomatoes in Linda’s salad were especially delicious. After Jim sampled a couple of bites, he, quietly, we thought, commented on how tasty they were. A few minutes passed and Nũria’s dad (who had apparently grown the tomatoes), brought an extra plate with an array of tomatoes seasoned only with sea salt and placed it on our table without comment, except for a thumbs up to Jim.
Surprise for Jim and dessert!
Jim proceeded to OD on the sumptuous tomatoes that were bursting with flavor. He even declined dessert in order to finish off the remaining tomatoes.
We settled our bill after dinner and shared hugs along with goodbyes, continuing the warm relationship we have with this delightful family.
We were presented with a small sack of the tomatoes to take with us tomorrow… we can see tomato sandwiches or something tomato tomorrow for sure.
Tomatoes to go.
Jim carefully packed them into his day pack to ensure they don’t get squished or bruised during our walk tomorrow.
We started the day with a taxi ride to Cebreiro. This allowed us to skip the 11 miles section of the Camino from Trabadelo, which continued along the road through the Valcarce Valley, then on to the path up the mountain to Cebreiro, the first official town in Galicia. The driver dropped us off at the exit of Cebreiro, where we began walking at an elevation of 4265 ft.
Taking a look at the scenery before starting our walk at Cebreiro.Leaving Cebreiro
We followed a roller coaster like path going up and down until finally reaching Liñares, a potential breakfast stop.
A disappointed Linda walks by our hoped-for breakfast stop.
But not only had it begun to rain, but Liñares, (pop.69) was quiet and the breakfast stop was closed up tight at 9:00 on this Sunday morning.
We kept on walking as the rain continued.
Linda’s socks and sandals were soaked long before we reached this point.The pilgrim statue at Alto San Roque was hardly visible in the rain and fog
The rain began to let up as we continued walking in the clouds.
Patches of blue tried to peek through the clouds as we approached our next potential breakfast stop, Hospital de la Condesa.
Weather looking better with Hospital visible in the distancePretty flowers joyfully greeting the sunmushrooms emerging tooLinda still dodging rain puddles, as if it made any difference to her wet shoes and socks.At 10:15, things were looking better, now, if only our breakfast spot is open.
Not only was the Mesón O Tear bar open, but we remembered that we had previously ranked it high in the category of “the best toast on the Camino.”
and the winner is …..
After one bite, it was no contest, the Mesón O Tear tostados is the best on the Camino Frances.
As we left Mesón O Tear after our breakfast, the passing bovines get the right-of-way.Back on the path after leaving Hospitalpretty scenery exposed as rain clouds try to move on.different path, more mountain sceneryWe spotted this bull (lower left) grazing on the hillsidePassing a small church just before the climb
The next few photos show Linda’s progress up a rather steep grade to Alto de Poio, the highest point on today’s walk at 4480 ft.
A rooster and three hens cheering Linda on as she crests the Alto de Poio.
We stopped at the bar atop Poio for fresh squeezed OJ. We also had an interesting chat with two peregrinas from Montreal. This delay enabled us time to catch our breath and it gave the rain clouds long enough to re-position themselves, so we would need our rain gear again on the final 2-mile walk into Fonfria.
heading toward Fonfria before a final shower
We walked into Fonfria at 2:00, found Casa Nuñez, checked in, were taken to our room and immediately returned to the Albergue restaurant for our lunch/dinner for the day.
Albergue Reboleira and Casa Nuñez of Fonfria
Our lunch was a little different as not all the offerings were available until the 7:00 pilgrim dinner.
Linda had fresh, sliced tomatoes with fresh cheese and a chicken and rice plate. Jim had a Spanish omelette with a tomato and tuna salad. For dessert, Linda saved some of her fresh cheese and drizzled on some local honey and Jim has Santiago cake.
We had a routine afternoon and evening in a spacious modern room.
We finished the day in Fonfria, elevation 4265 ft. The same elevation as we started at in Cebreiro.
The graph below shows where we ended yesterday (Trabadelo), where we ended today (Fonfria) and where we will end tomorrow(Tricastella).
It was drizzling as we left Viña Femita so we donned our ponchos and hoped for the best.
This street from our hostal to the bridge actoss the river was being redone with sidewalks and new stones. We had to watch our step with the construction and an occasional puddle.Pilgrim statue on the right as we walk over the Rio Burbia.Picturesque homes hanging on the edge of the mountain along the Rio Burbiaonce across the river, the road began to climb out of VillafrancaThe Valvarce River was on our left and flowing into the Rio Burbia.Another pretty riverside home reached out to Jim as we headed upward into the gap between the mountainsmountains ahead of us… thank goodness we walk through the gap not over the top. There is an alternate path that veered right as we left town that climbs up to the top and looks down on “our” gap, but we didn’t even consider it… different strokes for different folks.the sidewalk on the right completed during or after the pandemic made the walk safer to halfway up the hill. Today, it had been completed all the way to the junction of A-6. A nice improvement and safer for pilgrims.the path “new” endingthe junction with A-6 and the beginning of the road through the mountain gap with crash barriers to keep pilgrims from bumping into vehicles.This was the look of today’s walk 90% of the way.Look familiar?A-6 crossing over us, surprisingly quietWe had a slight relief from the crash-barrier road walk through Pereje, but it was more depressing than anything else.This used to be a nice breakfast stop in ” main street”. The bar is on the left with Spanish flags and a nice terrace with customer spillover tucked on the right. Unfortunately it’s never been open since 2019. Possibly a victim of the pandemic, it has a “cerrado” sign on the bar door with no further explanation and the terrace has a mean looking chain blocking its use by walkers-by.More walking in the gap
We got to the turnoff for Trabadelo after 5.5 miles. It had started raining more seriously a few minutes before, but our ponchos were still handy. We arrived Nova Ruta as the rain began to taper off, entered the Hotel Rural bar and had breakfast.
We checked in around 11:45, but our hotel restaurant was going to close at noon for the rest of the day. This was a disappointment because during our previous three visits, we have enjoyed their meals which featured local dishes.
While waiting for our room to be ready, Jim discovered a bottle of wine from one of the small vineyards we walked through yesterday, among others on a shelf in the bar and purchased it.
We got lunch/dinner at a nearby albergue and returned to our Hotel. We purposely had water with our meal, so we could sip the Bierzo wine throughout the afternoon… sharing a glass with the grateful hotel owner, who was still hanging around, waiting for a late arriving guest.
Our Bierzo wine was enjoyed by all.
Rain showers continued off and on all afternoon and evening while we completed our chores and prepped for tomorrow’s walk… probably also in the rain.
Jimandi 