We walked half a block from our hotel to rejoin the Camino on the Calle Marqués de Murrieta and walked in the dark for a mile.
walking in the city streets for a mile in the dark
The Camino made a left then a right and into Parque San Miguel, bordered by residential high-rise structures as we continued for another mile.
a mile walk in the park
We exited the park onto a bicycle/walk/jogging path that continued another mile,
beginning another mile walk on the bike/walk pathLinda walked right passed this perfectly good bench!she skipped this perfect bench, too
… ending as we entered a campground complex with a large lake, picnic areas with a golf course in the distance.
walking into the campground ….then around one end of a lakepassing the picnic areapassing another good place to rest!
We continued for another mile until leaving the campground along a nature trail joining a narrow paved road that worked its way through some Rioja Government experimental vineyards…
continuing through the campground nature areaWe’ve never seen a red squirrel beforewe stopped to purchase a couple bananas from this ancient pilgrim as we exited the campgroundexperimental vineyard for “White Tempranilla” grapesnear the mountain top with Logroño 5 miles behind us
…then up to the top of a mountain and a path that overlooked and ran parallel to the expressway leading to Navarrete.
heading down toward Navarette, with the expressway below us on rightthis is Torro countryfinally clearing the highway construction, getting back on a traditional Camino path, with Navarrete in the distance, another mile to go.This intersection/section of Spanish expressway was just started when we walked through in 2014… still a work in progressthe Navarette street just before our hotelour room, ready for us at 11:30!!!
Our lunch/dinner at Navarette (Hotel Rey Sancho Terrace Restaurant);
a local Rioja wine to compliment our mealFirst course: Artichokes and ham for Linda, Ensalada Rusa for JimSecond course: Chicken for Linda, beef cheeks for JimDessert (postre): chocolate truffles
Our walk which began today from Logroño continuing to Burgos, over the next week or so will be a celebration of a similar Camino completed by two granddaughters in May of this year.
It was their inaugural Camino and likely to be followed by others as time permits in their busy lives in the years to come. Our hats are off to Katelyn and Blake, we were thinking of you today. Congratulations & Buen Camino!
This morning’s walk was interesting in a lot of ways. After leaving Viana, a town of 4000 people, we passed through small, walled in farms then into a more open area of vineyards loaded with nearly ripened grapes for Navarre vintage wines.
looking back on the walled-in town of Viana at sunrisesmall walled in farms along the pathgrape vines packed with nearly ripened grapeswe know they are almost ready for harvest because we tasted them… yum!
We followed the path through a relatively open area, passing through a lonely, small group of pine trees, and ultimately leaving Navarre and entering the region of Rioja.
nearly at the end of our Camino through Navarre… note small group of trees top left of photoentering the small group of treesleaving the small group of trees and crossing the highway to enter Rioja, a few hundred yards laterleaving Navarre, entering Rioja
The path became a wide paved walkway that worked its way upward to the top of a hill that even overlooked the city of Logroño, pop. 150,000. Vineyards, now loaded with ripened grapes for Riojan vinage wines surrounded us on both sides, with an occasional group of olive trees, also loaded with fruit.
paved path up to hill toward Logroño one of numerous, heavily graffiti-decorated-underpasses along the paved walkwaycharacteristic of Camino paths… the steepest part is as we approached the pinnacle Riojan vineyardsour first view of Logroño
We crossed the Ebro River on a magnificant bridge, originally built in the 11th century by Santo Domingo de la Calzada, and then rebuilt by his disciple, San Juan de Ortega.
the bridge built and rebuilt by two saints across the Ebro River into Logroño
We entered Logroño and continued along the Camino,
continuing the Camino through Logroño Iglesia de la Santiago el Real
passed the Iglesia de Santiago el Real with its imposing Santiago Matamoros above the entrance.,.,
Some cities fail to provide good directions to stay on the Camino through the city… not so for Logroño
…and gradually worked our way to the Plaza de la Diversidad, found a seat/table and consumed a late 10:30 breakfast.
At 11:30 we walked the remaining couple of blocks to our hotel. When told we could not check in until 3:00, we said ok and occupied a corner of the lobby with our packs and our sweaty bodies and pulled out our cellphones to occupy the time, unfazed. About 10 minutes later, the concierge asked if we would consider a room with a large bed vs two twins, giving her an out. We said yes and were immediately checked in so the lobby could be cleared for less unseemly guests.
sculpture of modern day pilgrims along the way
After completing chores and some rest/ recovery time, we headed out to the city and found an open restaurant for lunch/dinner.
First course for dinner – mixed salad w/goat cheese Second course- pork cheeks
We then ambled back to our room to close out another interesting day on the Camino Frances.
taking a look at Iglesia de Santa María la Redonda, as we walked back to our hotel after lunch/dinner meal
walking in the dark againJim saving his battery, following Linda’s lampmost of the walk from Los Arcos to Sansol looked like thismuch like yesterday although small villages frequented the fields off in the distancemore fields after 3 miles of walkingfinally left the farm road and walked another mile to Sansol on paved secondary road.leaving Sandol and taking the paved road vs steep path into Torres del Riogood view of Torres del Rio
The path from Torres del Rio to Viana is just under 7 miles and notoriously known as the “Knee Wrecker” because of its frequent ups and downs. With today’s forecast for a high of 102F, we decided the 5 plus miles we already had “in the bank” was an adequate “deposit” for the day.
So we waited at the only open Torres del Rio Bar/Albergue until 11:30…
killing time in Torres del Rio waiting for bus to Viana
… then hopped on the bus to Viana, arriving at exactly 12:00 noon, in time to check in to our room.
our room in Viana
Our room is a few steps away from the center of “old” Viana and it overlooks a bull ring.
a view from our room a view from another window in our Viana room… the “Knee Wrecker” off in the distance.
After completing our daily chores we walked to one of our traditional eateries for a pilgrim lunch/dinner… also enjoying the shade and dry air and slight breeze … as the temperature in the sun climbed toward 100F.
the main walk street in Viana
before retiring to our room for the day… and out of the heat… which was still 95F at 6:00 p.m. Oh, did we mention our room is air conditioned? The Camino provides.
With another warm day in the forecast, we left in the dark (using headlamps) for the first couple of miles.
Looking back on Villamayor de Monjardin as we put our headlamps awayentering the “fields” between Villamayor and Los Arcos
Our walk was almost entirely on gravel farm roads along the edges of grain fields, vineyards and an occasional olive orchard and a single asparagus field.
this was the path a mile before Los ArcosCalle Mayor (Main Street) of Los Arcos.Breakfast in the Plaza Santa Maria
Los Arcos is located at the crossroads of two ancient trade routes, and was once a Roman city (Curnonium).
The current name comes from a battle in 914 when three Sanchos (the kings of Navarra, Castilla and Aragon) fought over the town. The Navarran army won with the help of their excellent archers, therefore the coat of arms of the city contains bows (arcos) and arrows.
Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción with one of the most ornate retablos on the entire Camino Frances.Santiago Apóstol
We waited in the Santa Maria Plaza until check in at 12:30 and spent a routine afternoon doing pilgrim chores, having our main meal of the day at 2:30, (only a few steps from our room at Restaurante MAVI) and resting/reading/blogging until bedtime.
We’re building our endurance with each passing day, Jim’s pinkie is also recovering, aided by walking in sandals rather than boots and Linda’s first set of minor blisters have already healed after treatment.
The first third of the Camino Frances, “the body”, ending in Burgos, is to help the pilgrim become physically fit and build endurance. And this is surely true. We can feel our body getting stronger every day. We plan to be in Burgos in 8 more days… we are halfway there.
The forecast was for warmer weather today, so we started earlier, before first light. We walked for nearly 2 miles before getting clear of Estella and its suburbs.
The gravel path took us past an interesting metal working vendor and his shop. Shortly after that, we reached the famous wine fountain, which is associated with the adjacent Irache Benedictine Monastery.
metal crafted Camino souvenirs metalworking artistry displayed on wall on the right and table on the left, as the artisan was hammering on anvil inside.Irache wine fountain
Continuing with some scenes along our walk…
walled in vineyards of the monasteryhumongous Irache campgrounds and sports complex with multi-sport fields, courts and poolscontinuing toward “Monjardin”, 11th century castille in the distancewalking along grain fields with the unusual Sierra de Lóquiz mountain range in the distanceyounger pilgrims passing usone of the few downhill sections on today’s walkshort, steep ascent into hamlet of Azquetabreakfast in Azqueta with Castillo de San Esteban looming in backgroundA steep, rough, overgrown section of Camino just before Villamayor de Monjardin.the way began to level out a bit and we walked on the edge of some of the vineyards of the “Jardin”.and we got a closer, final look at the Castilloa partial view of the Jardin below
As we walked into the village, Linda commented that the entire way seemed uphill, but not terribly difficult. Jim’s Apple watch confirmed that we had a total elevation gain of 1053 ft. But because the gain was spread over most of the 6 miles, it did not feel challenging while we walked it.
our lodging in Villamayor de Monjardin… our door on the right and our 4 windows and two floors above.
Markiola is a unique property and a hidden gem in the village of Villamayor de Monjardin. This is our 3rd time to stay here. We like it because it has everything we need in an overnight stay. This small village (pop.129) has very limited facilities and limited hours of operation. But Markiola has everything you need, including food/ supplies for lunch, dinner, breakfast and snacks for the “road” (Camino) without needing to go off of the property. Oh, and we have a small grocery store literally next door.
the main floor accessed from ground level front door and stairs to main bedroom and bathroom on second level. a full kitchen, a nice washing machine, well supplied fridge (fresh eggs, selection of sliced meats and cheese, drinks, bottle of Navarre wine, condiments and spreads, yogurt, milk, juice, etc.a spacious living and dining area and even room for portable clothes drying rack.a nice selection of snacks, pastas, canned beans, cocktail meats, coffees, teas, onions, rice, olive oils, vinegar, a fresh baguette, etc..
Today, because of our early start, we arrived at 10:00, two hours before our scheduled check in. The owner had emailed us the entry code for the front door, yesterday, so we tried it and got immediate access. The owner who also runs the only grocery/snack bar in the village, saw us entering the door and helped us with our packs (which were waiting for us just inside the door) and told us we could do the check in process later, when convenient.
In addition to resting and blogging, we prepared bocadillos for lunch, spaghetti for dinner, washed and dried clothes and prepared some snacks for the Camino, tomorrow morning.
We love everything about this place. A nice day on the Camino Frances.
Today was our 6th time to walk from Lorca to Estella. The sites along the way are rather mundane, the physical challenges are few and the focus is totally on the arrival to one of our favorite cities on the Camino… and less so on the journey.
joining the Camino dirt path as we left Lorcagrain fields and a few assorted vineyards and vegetable gardens dominated the scenery for the 2 miles walk leading to the next town of Villatuerta.The grain fields and farmland runs right up the residential streets of Villatuerta.
One highlight of the day was a return to our breakfast routine of cafe con leche and tostadas con mantequilla y marmalada. Yaa!’
Having a break-fast at a favorite spot in Villatuertaan impressive Romanesque bridge in the center of the villagethe Iglesia la Asunción towers above ghetto town… never been inside… doors always locked when passing through.Leaving Villatuerta, Ermita de San Miguel in distance on leftpassing the Ermita del San Martin on our way to Estella.downhill into a park, past some corralled horses and a farmuphill again through an industrial area and popular walking, jogging paved road leading into Estella.first building of Estella proper ahead walking through “old Estella”nearing our hotel located in center of old cityHostal Cristina (center)
We walked directly to our hotel, Pención Cristina. It was only 11:00, so we didn’t expect to be able to check in. But, alas, the door was opened for us and we checked in and were taken immediately to our comfortable room.
This is also the 6th time we have stayed at Hostal Cristina, located on the Plaza de los Fueros. Although a large stage was installed in the Plaza when we arrived, no major festivities appeared to be underway. In years past we have witnessed huge markets, annual festivals with period costumes, “gigantes” dancers, bull running, bands, parades, etc. all in the plaza viewed from our room balcony or out among the revelry.
a view from one of the 3 balconies in our toomanother view from our roomcapping off a delicious lunch/dinner with dessert (french toast & ice cream (vanilla, strawberry and lemon sherbet)
So today, we had our meal for the day in the plaza from 2:00 – 3:30 and spent the rest of the day relaxing in our room, just enjoying being here and reminiscing our extraordinary past experiences here.
Estella is a very special place among our Camino adventures.
Jimandi 