Camino 2024 – Page 7

Burgos

We took advantage of our rest day and slept in a bit.

Leaving our hotel for a late breakfast at 8:30.

Our room is on the second level. We’d share photos, but it’s a mess with all our stuff layed out for easy access and quasi- organization.

All was quiet at 8:00 on this Sunday morning so it took a while to find a bar open for breakfast. But we soon found one not too far from our hotel.

We returned to the room after breakfast and Linda decided to chill and Jim wanted to revisit his favorite Catedral so we went our separate ways for the morning.

The Burgos Catedral was relatively quiet other than the 10:00 chimes. It was too early for the usual Sunday crowds.

After paying the admission fee (5€) for pilgrims, Jim entered the Catedral and followed a guided tour app that was conveniently upload to his phone and he easily follow the narrators guidance and commentary, confirming photos and written text on the app for the “tour” throughout the entire Catedral.

The tour pace was controlled by Jim listening to and occasionally pausing and speeding up the guide’s commentary based on interest. Total time for Jim to take the tour was 2 hours. The following photos and notes are a sampling of the architecture, art, paintings and sculptures seen along the way:

One of the many stained glass windows throughout the Burgos Cathedral.

“The Holy Christ of Burgos” (14c) located in the chapel of the same name.

The Catedral Nave with the tomb of Don Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, ” El Cid”, in the foreground.

The main Altarpiece- dedicated to the Virgin Mary and shows scenes of her life.

Tomb of the Constables of Castile – carved in Carrara marble.

An altarpiece of St James on horseback (St. James Matamoros) located in the Catedral Museum

The legendary coffin of El Cid, located in the upper Cloister.

Stone reliefs of the Retrochoir of the last events in Jesus’s life

A view of the North Wing of the Upper Cloister

Painting and sculpture of San Jerónimo in the Catedral Museum

Jim returned from his tour of the Catedral in time for lunch. Yesterday, during one of our reconnaissance strolls, Linda spied a restaurant menu offering “Ensalada de queso de cabra” (mixed salad with goat cheese), So we decided to make it lunch.

This mixed salad had a variety of fixin’s plus a large slice of goat cheese on top, with a tasty combination of two separately drizzled dressings: a caesar and a viscous red berry balsalmic. Yum! Yum!

A nice Rioja Crianza perfectly complimented our salad lunch on the street where we live (today).

After lunch, we took a stroll down toward the park by the river looking for a chocolate dessert, without having anything specific in mind. We heard some music and followed it and a gathering to a large gazebo in the park with jazz musicians performing for an appreciative mixture of local citizens of all ages and even a few pilgrims.

Music in the Park on a Sunday afternoon

We listened to the music until the band took a break, then continued our stroll until settling for a Magnum double chocolate bar on our way back to the room.

We passed the rest of the afternoon organizing our stuff for continuing the walk tomorrow then returned to the park to a pizzeria for supper.

Pepperoni and margaritas and wine for supper in the park along the river (Arlanzón).

We thoroughly enjoyed our extra day in Burgos and appreciated all the many aspects of the Camino Frances that make it so special to us.

Day 16- Villafranca Montes de Oca to Burgos

Depart Time: 8:30. Temp: 60F RH: 100%

Walked m: 2.5 mi. Camino 2024: 101 mi.

Picking up with our discussion yesterday, we’ve decided to give ourselves a break. Each of the combinations of walking and taxi required us to walk at least 10 of the 23 miles to Burgos, except one. It would require a very short walk of 3.5 miles and two different taxis… which seemed hardly worth the hassle and the cost (~80€) versus the gain of logging a few extra miles today.

But alas, after a brief discussion with the hotel concierge last night, we discovered another option… there is a bus stop less than a mile from the hotel.

So, this morning we walked to the Villafranca bus stop and…

…boarded at 9:07 for the 8:52 bus to Burgos. (Spanish buses are not quite as punctual as Spanish trains).

on the bus. This was typical of our view along today’s “walk” 🙂

It was an interesting ride, taking us away from the Camino, then entering the city from a different direction than when we walked in.

We pulled into the Burgos station after the 40 minute ride and had breakfast in the station bar/restaurant.

As we walked out of the bus station, just a few steps ahead was the Santa Maria Bridge which crosses the Arlanzón River and leads immediately to the the magnificent entrance of the Arco Santa María into the Plaza del Rey San Fernando.

No matter how many times we have entered through this arch, today we were again overwhelmed by the beautiful, flamboyantly gothic and dominant Catedral de Santa María of Burgos.

Catedral de Santa María in Rey San Fernando Plaza

We walked back out of the plaza and walked along the park that borders the Rio Atlanzón, following the Booking.com app to locate our hotel.

Passing thru some more arches into Plaza Mayor

to and into a narrow passageway leading to our home for the next two nights.

Once we located our “habitación”, we returned to the Plaza Rey San Fernando, found a bench with a good view of the Catedral and watched it and people until our room was ready at 12:30.

After check in, we got lunch/dinner at a nearby restaurant…

Linda had chicken and two padrón peppers, which she shared with Jim (the Padróns, that is)

we both had a very nice wine (free with our dinner)

… then returned to our room to do some chores and get an early start on our two day rest in Burgos.

Day 15- Belorado to Villafranca Montes de Oca

Depart Time: 7:30 Temp: 62F RH: 95%

Walked m: 7.7 mi. Camino 2024: 99 mi.

We had a very nice, restful evening in our La Huella room last night. In spite of all the festivities that continued through much of the evening, our room was obviously quite soundproof as the only way that one might suspect a lot of celebrating went on was all the trash left behind by the revelers, as we walked on our way out of the town.

Not much partying, if any, transpired in this area of town.

interesting wall art seen as we made our way through Belorado

Looking back at Belorado as we picked up the Camino

wooden pedestrian bridge beside stone bridge attributed to San Juan de Ortega.

sunflower field on right, along the river hidden by the trees on right

dodging puddles from yesterday’s showers

taking a breather at the end of a long grade

At the halfway point of today’s walk we were looking forward to having a nice breakfast break at the San Roque albergue/bar in Villambistia, as we have on our previous 5 Caminos. But it was closed for the day, as it seems the staff was in Belorado joining the festivities we witnessed yesterday.

Not only were we disappointed, but we realized that only one other village remained with a potential breakfast stop until Villafranca and our fears were validated when we found it also closed for the day when we got there a half hour later.

So, Linda found and claimed a suitable bench and we scrambled through our daypacks for any remaining nibbles, and had an emergency “snack-breakfast” before moving on to Villafranca.

another long grade and still no breakfast stop

down into the valley leading into Villfranca Montes de Oca.

just before walking along N-120 and heavy traffic for last half-mile into Villafranca

before joining the trucks at the traffic intersection in Villafranca.

We stopped at the first bar in Villafranca (pop.147) and got off our feet at a table inside and ordered a belated, but satisfying ColaCao (hot chocolate) and tostadas.

After breakfast and just before walking up the steep hill to our hotel, we walked passed the nice Casa Rural where our granddaughters spent the night on their next to last day on their Camino in May.

Katelyn and Blakes’s stop in Villafranca

We checked into San Anton Abad for the 6th time and were actually recognized by the lady who welcomed us in 2014 and several times since.

This historic Hospital de la Reina hosted up to 18,000 pilgrims per year in the 17th century and was later converted into this boutique hotel and albergue.

The view from our window in Hotel San Anton Abad.

As on previous visits we have a grand view of the 18th century Iglesia de Santiago from our room window.

We’ve 23 miles to cover tomorrow to reach our destination tomorrow in Burgos. Along with our routine activities we devoted some time discussing how to make our way to Burgos either by walking or taxi or both and will decide in the morning, also taking weather conditions into consideration,

Still full from our late breakfast and mid-afternoon lunch/dinner, we opted to skip tonight’s pilgrimage dinner at the hotel.

It’s raining at 7:30, so we’ll retire early to give our bodies some extra healing time.

Day 14- Cirueña to Belorado

Depart Time:6:40 Temp: 64F RH: 90%

Walked m: 4.2 mi. Camino 2024: 90.9 mi.

The forecast is for thunderstorms this morning so we left Cirueña in time, hopefully, to get to Santo Domingo before the heavens opened up.

Leaving in the dark again, the lights of Santo Domingo de la Calzada reflecting off the low hanging clouds

It’s sunrise without the sun, but clouds are still tinting everything red

We’re closing in on Santo Domingo, still no rain. Maybe wearing raingear will be a good deterrent?

The 4 mile walk this morning from Cirueña to Santo Domingo was almost perfectly straight on rolling hills.

Two downhill sections of the path have been paved since we walked here last year. To improve the walking surface when it rains?

Just after reaching the edge of Santo Domingo, a flash of lightning was followed by raindrops, just after Jim said ” I think we made it!” He’s got to stop doing that.

The puddles were beginning to form as we walked into Santo Domingo. No more photos… gotta keep the cellphone dry!

We walked passed the commercial/industrial areas, through a rundown section then into the old town, passed the Cathedral and Parador hotel then found an open bar for breakfast and to get out of the rain.

A few minutes before 10:00 we walked back to the Parador lobby to rendezvous with a prearranged taxi to take us the remaining 14 miles to Belorado… making today a short walk.

Last year we also got a taxi ride like today by reportedly the only taxi driver available in the area. Today our driver was his wife, who recently became a driver, too. So taxi service in the area has doubled since last year!!

Our room wasn’t ready when we arrived at Hostal La Huella, so we waited in the restaurant and sampled some pintxos.

We checked in at noon and were pleasantly surprised by the niceness and size of our double room (with 4 beds!). The view out our bedroom window was extraordinary.

View from our room window: Camino on lower right, 13th century Iglesia de Santa Maria in center, and ruins of medieval castle upper left.

Our transported backpacks had not yet been delivered, limiting our ability to get showers, etc, so Jim ventured into the town square to get some photos of the Belorado Annual Fair.

Belorado has been settled since Roman times and was known as Bilforado by the 10th century. It was granted a charter by King Alfonso I of Aragon in 1116 that allowed for an annual fair which is being held this weekend beginning today at 1:00.

Thousands of revellers were gathered in the Plaza Mayor for the beginning of the Annual Fair

We’re not sure about the meaning but the guys dancing out of the Plaza with the band behind them, were followed by the towns people forming a lively parade throughout most of the streets in the old town. It was fun and engaging.

We had a very tasty, classy lunch/dinner in the La Huella restaurant.

A very nice mixed salad, with local Rioja wine

Baked lemon chicken and stewed pork cheeks (note the “condiment”script and art on the plates)

We followed our routine this afternoon with one additional highlight. Our grandson, Collin Shick, is playing in a professional pickleball tourney in Las Vegas this weekend. Jim became aware of this via a text from Collin’s dad yesterday. The smart TV in our hostal room had YouTube access so we watched Collin and partner Jack Sock win their Round of 64 and 32 matches in the comfort of our especially nice room, doing the Camino “our way”!

Day 13- Azofra to Cirueña

Depart Time: 6:55 Temp: 60F RH: 75%

Walked m: 6.2 mi. Camino 2024: 86.7 mi.

…just outside of Azofra, a medieval boundary marker.

Typical scenery for the first two miles.

grain fields to the left, major highway on the right… irrigation stream in between

waterfall and full stream, unusual for end of summer and dry weather

walking deeper into fields and vineyards away from the highway… red tint is from sunrise behind us

after 3 miles of this look, approaching long incline up to our destination for the day

a pause on the way up the steep grade at the end

Linda catching her breath at the top of this steep climb

Walking into Cirueña, with the huge housing complex of Ciriñuela, associated with the Rioja Alta Golf Club in background.

Today was our 6th visit to Casa Victoria… we’ve stayed here every Camino.

The owner and his wife occupy the first floor of this 3 story home built in the 1800’s. They rent out 3 rooms located on the 2nd and 3rd level, mostly to area tourists, but obviously, also to occasional pilgrims.

Upper left: stairway to second floor, Upper right: kitchen and outdoor access to terrace, Lower left: stairway to third level, Lower right: our room door at end of hall

In addition to a bedroom and separate bathroom, the second level has a kitchen, clothes washer and dryer available to guests. Also off the 2nd level is a nice terrace with a view and a seating area shaded with grapevines.

top left:interior view of our room, top tight: full, en-suite bath, bottom left: view outside and terrace, bottom right: unusual headboard

Casa Victoria appeals to us as an alternative to typical pilgrim housing… at a very reasonable cost (55€).

Lunch/Dinner: Langoustines for appetizer

Lunch/Dinner: Chicken breast, eggs, fries, for Linda….Mixed Salad (lettuce, roasted peppers, tomatoes,tuna and anchovies) for Jim

Day 12 – Navarrete to Azofra

Depart Time: 5:45 Temp: 58F RH: 85%

Walked today: 8.5 mi. Camino 2024: 80.6 mi.

Our plan for today was to walk 4 miles to Ventosa, take a taxi to Najera, then walk another 4 miles to Azofra.

two different markers seen on Navarrete streets this morning, keeping us on track in the dark

This 12th-century Romanesque doorway belonged to the old hospital of San Juan de Acre, and stands at the entrance to the Navarrete cemetery. The hospital was founded by Doña Maria Ramirez around 1185 as a hostel and to provide aid to pilgrims during the middle ages.

Time-out! We forgot to include these photos of a “RED” squirrel and his/her buddy hopping from tree to tree as we walked through the campground outside of Logroño yesterday. It was a first for us.

Now, back to our walk… its difficult to get photos in the dark, so please take our word that after leaving Navarette we followed the Camino through vineyard after vineyard and along a two lane secondary road which ran parallel to a major 4-lane highway.

At first light and then sunrise, we left the Camino for a walk through more vineyards into the village of Ventosa.

leaving the Camino here for a side road to Ventosa

red clay of this area reminds us of South Carolina. Apparently very good for growing grapes

Reaching the Buen Camino Bar for breakfast and a rendezvous with a taxi

The distance from Navarre to Azofra is about 15 miles. The walk from to Najera is about 7 miles. After a short section of Camino out of Ventosa, the path becomes a wash as it winds up to the Alto de Antón. After enjoying a picturesque descent for about a mile, the pilgrim has to endure a couple of miles of ugly industrial buildings, rundown housing and poorly maintained walking surfaces.

So, Linda and I decided a 15 mile walk was not gonna happen today. We also decided, after 5 previous walks from Ventosa to Najera, we would skip it today to bring down our walking distance to ~ 8 miles. Hence, the reason for the 8 minute taxi ride separating our two walks.

the taxi dropped us off here to continue today’s walk to Azofra.

walking across the Najerilla River into the old, more interesting and historic part of Najera.

Picturesque Calle Mayor with shops and eateries, running parallel to the residences and the Monasterio de Santa María la Real which are built into the mountain.

Linda walking around edge of the Monastery

In 2014 on our first Camino, we named this Proud Mary Hill. About halfway up, for inspiration, we played Tina Turner’s version of Proud Mary which helped us over the pinnacle along with other pilgrims within ear shot.