Getting There

At 7:30 Sunday morning our friend Caren gave us a lift to a virtually empty Greenville/Spartanburg Airport (GSP). We checked our backpacks and cleared TSA in 2 minutes… (no one else in line!). We waited 90 minutes to board our flight to Charlotte (CLT), then savored our upgraded first class seating for the full 23 minute ride… it was free!

Today was the first time in many trips that we didn’t have to run to catch our connecting flight, so we happily passed the 5 hour plus layover looking for comfortable seating, people watching and searching for lunch snacks.

Watchin’ and Rockin’ in the CLT atrium
People watcher’s paradise

The flight from CLT to Madrid (MAD) passed unusually fast. It was not crowded, the weather was uneventful and we arrived nearly 40 minutes early, at 5:20 a.m., due to a 75 mph tailwind most of the way. We were served a nice, complimentary dinner and breakfast.

We cleared customs in about 15 minutes and our checked backpacks were waiting for us when we got to the baggage claim turnstile. We boarded the local train (Cercanías) in the airport T4 terminal, which took us to the Atocha terminal in central Madrid, via the Chamartin terminal, some 35 minutes later.

We had a second breakfast in the Atocha train station (cafe con leche, zumo de naranja, tostatos) while waiting for our train to Pamplona.

The 3 hour train ride to Pamplona was tiring from the rocking motion which seemed more severe than usual. This was added to the lack of sleep, crossing 6 time zones and virtually being in motion for the past 36 hour time frame.

As soon as we arrived at the Pamplona train station, Jim headed out to the taxi stand and recruited a taxi driver to take us the final 30 miles to Roncesvalles.

The 40 minute ride up into the Pyrenees Mts. over narrow roads, consisting of mostly steep curves and switchbacks finally did us in. We checked-in to the Casa des los Beneficiados Hotel, our most frequented lodging on the Camino Frances, then dragged ourselves to our apartment/room… our home for the next two days where we hope to recuperate before embarking on Camino 2024.

Prepping for Camino 2024

Once we decided to walk the Camino Frances again, we began our preparation process for the 9th time.

We started by building on our Camino 2023 experience, which was an abbreviated version of the 500 mile trek across Northern Spain. That result was a mere 316 miles, as we skipped various sections between SJPdP and Santiago for various reasons. We used taxis and buses to cover the skipped sections.

We had walked each of the skipped sections at least 3 times in our previous Camino’s. They were sections ranging from 6-15 miles in length and were selected to avoid industrial areas, low or no services (lodging, food, restroom) or extremely difficult walking paths. We also attempted to keep our daily walks to less than 10 miles.

So, for Camino 2024, Linda and I did a verbal walk of the full Camino based on memory (we know the Camino Frances, like the back of our hands, by now) and roughed out a plan. The result for 2024 is a Camino that begins in Roncesvalles and ends in Santiago 46 days later, walking a total of 300 miles.

We then decided to fly directly to Madrid, take the train to Pamplona and a taxi to Roncesvalles in one long day.

Next, in addition to walking the Camino, we decided to spend three nights in Roncesvalles to recover from jetlag and a missed night’s sleep on the flight to Madrid. Along the way we’ll spend two nights in Pamplona, two nights in Leon. After finishing our Camino we’ll stay two nights in Santiago before taking the train back to Madrid where we will spend four nights before flying back home.

We established when we’d like to be back home, plugged in the time to achieve the plan, and arrived at the departure date. This allowed us to begin making reservations for flights, trains and places to stay. This process which started in late January was finished in early June.

Because August and September are the busiest months for walking the Camino Frances and the accommodations are still recovering from the pandemic, we decided it would be prudent to make reservations for the entire 60 days to avoid unnecessary stress along the way.

In the meantime, based on our previous Caminos, we determined what to take and then what to buy or upgrade (footware, packs, poles, socks, etc).

For simplicity, we will limit our checked luggage for the two month adventure to our backpacks. We also have selected and tested flight carry-ons that will also work as a day pack for walking. Loaded backpacks are 14 lbs. for Linda and 18 lbs. for Jim.

Finally, during the past several months, we have reviewed the items we will take, making sure everything is needed and that it works/fits. And we have packed and re-packed, verifying that everything will fit comfortably into our packs (backpacks and daypacks).

So, we’re feeling ready for and excited about Camino 2024. We will leave for Spain in only 15 days.