Leaving Gonzar this morning, it was 59F and foggy.The traditional Camino path heads off to the left through several small hamlets without services and many abandoned buildings and ruins. The road to the right is lightly traveled, has a good shoulder and smoother walking surface. We have opted for the option on the right since 2022.This was the typical look as we walked along the road for about 2 miles.The two options merged at this traffic circle and an albergue in the background.Immediately after the circle and inspite of poor signage, we took this small paved road leading to Ventas de Narón.The dirt path and the paved road were about the same width and gave us a choice of walking surfaces, as the traffic was quite low.
The year 820 was an important one for Ventas de Naron, and for Christian Spain. For Ventas, it was the site of a battle between the Muslim and Christian forces. The Muslim forces aimed to expand their territory to the north and the Christians, led by the Asturian King Alfonso II the chaste, sent them back. For Christian Spain, it was also the year that the bones of St James, the Apostle were rediscovered in Santiago. Not long after the very same Alfonso would become the first pilgrim (the primitivo), would verify the relics, would build a church to house them, and would set in motion a chain of events that would see the remaining Muslim forces defeated.
A section of ” fence” we saw as we walked along the road into Ventas de Naron.Our breakfast spot, O Cruceiro, in the village of Ventas de Naron. (pop.120).A few hundred yards from the present location of the Chapel of Mary Magdalena, a hospital was built in the late 13th century and controlled by the Knight Templar. When the Knights were eliminated, the Benedictines took it over, but by the end of the 19th century the building had collapsed and some of the stones were used by local residents to build the Chapel.Leaving Ventas
From Ventas we climbed a steep hill then passed through the small hamlets of Prebista, Lameiros, Ligonde and Exirexe.
The path and road continued through mostly pastures and occasional corn fields and potato fields.We stopped for some OJ and a brief rest stop at this relatively new bar in Prebista.Nice set of horns on these two bulls just before LameirosWe made another brief rest stop in Ligonde. The house above has intrigued Jim. On all 7 Caminos, including today, this house in Ligonde has always had some type of decoration of pumpkins, gourds, tomatoes and other fruits and vegetables placed along the railing. She can often be seen in her kitchen window looking out at pilgrims and occasionally waving or otherwise acknowledging us as we pass by. She waved in answer to Jim’s wave today.This field is at the exit of Ligonde and frequently contains ducks, chickens, goats and other critters. On the opposite edge of this field is a rocky, narrow path/wash designated as the Camino. After walking it on our first Camino in 2015, we have taken the road that merges with it at the bottom of the hill, as we did today. No harm, no foul.We have ignored talking about the continuing onslaught of young pilgrim groups on the Camino today. Nevertheless, here’s an example of how they can monopolize a stopping point or services also sought by individual pilgrims.The Camino was also busy most of the way on today’s walk, but with a greater balance between groups and individuals, and did not seem nearly as intrusive as yesterday.As Linda waited for the taxi at A Paso de Formiga, she had no fear of the giant insect sculptures just a few feet from her bench, now hiding in the overgrowth of the bar’s outdoor seating.
When we reached O Portos, we decided we had walked enough for the day and called a taxi to take us the remaining 3 miles to Palas de Rei.
When we reached Palas de Rei, our room was not ready until 1:30, so we settled in at a nearby and familiar restaurant and split a pizza at noon … then, still hungry, opted to have our main meal before checking in at nearly 2:00.
This is our 3rd time staying in Palas de Rei. The other 4 Caminos, we have stayed in Lestedo, near where we called for a taxi today. No accommodations were available for today, in Lestedo, when we were making our reservations in Feb/Mar.
It’s difficult to explain, but we dislike Palas and prefer to walk through it or just get breakfast here, and not stay here.
Our room in Palas de Rei.
Our room is pleasant and has all we need for the afternoon and evening, since our goal is blogging, reading and making the minimal preps required for our walk tomorrow.
Jimandi 