Day: June 18, 2025

Day 35 – Ambasmestas to Fonfria

Walked: 7.8 mi. Camino2025: 205 mi

A taxi met us at the front door of the Hotel Ambasmestas (elev. 2985ft) at 7:30 and within 15 minutes let us off at the Iglesía de Santa María in the village of O Cebreiro (elev. 4250ft), advancing our Camino by some 8 miles and increasing our elevation by 1265 ft.

It was cool, the sky was cloudless and the air was dry at 50% humidity, making for great walking conditions as we left the Bierzo region behind and began walking in the autonomous community of Galicia which extends west to the Atlantic Ocean and whose capital is Santiago de Compostela.

The view looking north from O Cebrerio as we rejoined the Camino.
The dirt path leaving from O Cebrerio.

The path from O Cebrerio to Liñares was about 2 miles and was much like a roller coaster… not much change in elevation but endless undulations of short duration but more taxing than a more level path.

A downhill section
An uphill section
Uphill…
… and relatively flat…
This is the Casa Rural Jaime at Liñares. It’s also is a good rest stop and has a store with something for everyone, if it’s open. It has been closed on our previous two Caminos, It was, thankfully, open today.
Shortly after Liñares, we left the paved road and climbed up the steep dirt/concrete path up to Alto San Roque, Elev. 4170ft.
The retaining wall and paved road show the path degree of incline near the top.
The Pilgrim statue at the Alto de San Rogue.
Scenery after walking past Alto de San Roque.
Walking toward Hospital de la Condesa
Walking into Hospital and approaching the back door to one of our favorite breakfast stops.
Tostadas and cafe con leche at Cafe/Bar 0’Tear

Shortly after breakfast we met and hopscotched with two Russian pilgrims, currently living in Washington State. The were both equipped with umbrellas attached to their packs to giving them perpetual shade.

We reached the base of the very steep path leading up to Alto Do Poio (elev. 4373) and struggled up the hill together, and reaching the top, exhausted.
Recovering and enjoying our reward of fresh squeezed OJ after conquering the hill to Alto Do Poio and crashing at the Albergue del Puerto Bar.

We recovered, somewhat, from the hill climb enough to continue on to Fonfria. The walk was mostly, gently downhill and mercifully, occasionally shaded along the final mile and a half, as the almost noon sun was beginning to move the temperature toward 80F in spite of the lingering cool mountain breeze..

Walking toward Fonfria.
The occasionally shaded path toward Fonfria.

We arrived in Fonfria (elev. 4236ft) at 12:30, checkin was immediate and we were taken to our double room with an ensuite bathroom giving us the full afternoon and evening to recover from a challenging but satisfying walk.

We had our main meal in the dining area around 2:30 and rather than go for the typical evening menu, chose instead to create our own menu from individual items that were available all day long… an option not frequently available on the Camino.

Beginning our main meal with a great Mencía wine.
A delicious ” a la carte” meal at our home for the afternoon and evening, Albergue A Reboleira & Casa Rural Nuñez, Fonfria.

To go with our outstanding wine, we both had tuna and tomato salad. Jim had a lentil soup and Linda had fresh local cheese with honey.

Dessert (postre) was a chocolate almond cake. (We got the recipe for making it when we return home!!)

Other than enjoying some delicious food and wine. we washed and dried our dirty clothes and spent the afternoon in our spacious, modern room.

This was our 7th visit to Fonfria and our 2nd visit to Casa Nuñez. We would highly recommend it for pilgrims or tourists!