Day 29 – Rabanal del Camino to Foncebadón

Walked: 6.2 mi. Camino2025: 166 mi.

The Pilgrim Stone B&B is a “vegan” B&B so rather than walk before breakfast we had a Vegan B before beginning our walk.

Linda had a homemade granola with greek yogurt and toast with a light cream spread, topped with black cherry jam and our usual cafe con leche.
Jim also had the yogurt and granola mixture also but his toast had s thin layer of crushed tomatoes and oliver oil, covered with a slice of cheese and sliced avocado on top.

It was our first vegan breakfast, we think, and we were pleasantly surprised. Jim may go for the tomatoes with toast at a future breakfast instead of the usual mantequilla and marmalade combination… or not.

The mosaic of stone and brick streets of Rabanal became the familiar dirt path as we left the village (pop.74)
Some really fine looking cattle wished us buen Camino as we headed up the mountain from our elevation of 3770 ft.
The walk was not difficult at first with good footing and a gradual incline,
The path got steeper and rockier
Breaks in the trees gave us periodic looks at the scenery below and made us more aware of the ascent.
More rocks and steeper
The higher altitude was revealed by the lack of trees and more frequent tundra and stone.
One final push…
… and Foncebadon finally appeared.
Walking into Foncebadon (pop. 26), elevation 4690 ft.

We arrived in Foncebadon at 10:30, tired but not quite finished our walk.

We got a table in perhaps the best restaurant on the Camino, Albergue/Restaurant, El Trasgu. We stayed here in 2024 and savored the delicious dishes preparef by the owner/Italian cook/former pilgrim. We ordered and drank a tall glass of OJ while we rested and regained our strength.

Jim checked across the street at La Posada del Druida, also a nice property, where we will be staying tonight as Trasgu was sold out, when we made our reservations in February. Checkin was no sooner than 1:00.

Next we checked for when the cocina ( kitchen) was open today for meals and learned that today it would only be open from 1:00 -2:00!!!

We asked if we’d need a reservation and the owner said no, we would have a table.

So, at 11:00, we took on the final leg of today’s walk… to continue on to the Cruz de Ferro.

Cruz de Ferro occupies the highest point on the entire Camino Francés. The site consists of a tall wooden pole topped with an iron cross. This is said to be an ancient monument, first erected by the ancient Celts, then dedicated by the Romans to their god Mercury (protector of travelers) and later crowned by the cross and renamed as a Christian site by the 9th-century hermit Guacelmo. For centuries, pilgrims have brought a stone to the place (either from home or the flatlands below) to represent their burden. The stone and the burden are left here, leaving the pilgrim lighter (literally and figuratively) for the journey ahead. Today all sorts of symbolic items are left behind, and some stones bear written messages.

The paved road ends abruptly at the edge of the recently developed part of the village and reverts to the eroded dirt path.
The steep path leading up the mountain can be seen as we passed the ruins of church.
Looking back on Foncebadon as we continue up the mountain.
…. still climbing…
… near the high point.,.
Jim checking elevation on watch : 4872 ft
Our first view of the Cruz de Ferro.
The Cruz de Ferro, elevation: 4934 ft.

We arrived at the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) after walking 1.4 miles from Foncebadon. After taking a few photos for ourselves and a nice couple from Norway walking their first Camino, we began the walk back down to Foncebadon.

Jim heading back to Foncebadon.
Linda on the return to Foncebadon.

The walk back took about 30 minutes, getting us back to El Trasgu for lunch in plenty of time.

We rewarded ourselves for a tough walk today with a glass of sangria!
We shared a delicious salad.
We also shared a perfectly prepared (no bones) and savory sea bass fillet.
And, we shared a melt-in-your-mouth slow cooked pork cheeks in a wine sauce,
Our wine is a Mencía from a vineyard we will walk through a couple days from now. It paired perfectly with the salad, sea bass and the pork cheeks!

After lunch, we walked across the street to La Posada del Druida, checked in, and took the rest of the day off!!

Buen Camino!

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