June 2025 – Jimandi

Santiago

After setting an alarm everyday for 2 months on the Camino, we slept in this morning until around 8, then walked next door from our hotel and had a breakfast of cafe con leche and Croissants!

When we finished, Linda returned to the room to begin reorganizing her stuff for the train trip tomorrow. So, Jim returned the 1.25 mile walk to old Santiago de Compostela to take some photos and checkout the inside of the Catedral.

A few pilgrims and tourists beginning to congregate in Obradoiro Plaza at 9:00 a.m.

A view of the Catedral looking directly at the Pórtico de la Gloria (gated door on center, ground level). The Pórtico of Gloria was like a porch where pilgrims entered the 24/7 over 1000 years ago. It was closed this morning so will have to check it out next trip!

A closer look at the west entrance (which is normally closed except for the Pórtico de la Gloria museum/display).

A closer look above the Pórtico at the architecture and sculptures.

Jim walked around to the south side of the Catedral where most visitors enter. No line this morning, but yesterday, a line containing hundreds of people snaked into and filled the courtyard on the east side of the Catedral and then continued down a street leading into the courtyard.

When Jim entered the Catedral there was a 9:30 pilgrims mass beginning and no photos were allowed in respect for the parishioners.

So Jim took a seat and joined the 30 minute service. It was obviously in Spanish and Jim’s not catholic, thus being unfamiliar with the service routine. So, when not reflecting on the spirituality of the moment, he observed the artwork and sculpture and symbolism displayed all around him.

Here are some of his visual observations during the service and then after the service.

Jim’s view as he sat in the nave, in a pew about half way back. The organ pipes and decor located at near mid-sanctuary were awesome.

Approaching the altar… Botafumeiro suspended at right center.

The Botafumeiro was hanging in the Catedral but not swinging during today’s pilgrimage mass at 9:30.

The ‘Botafumeiro’ is the famous giant thurible or censer in the Santiago de Compostela cathedral. It has been used since the Middle Ages, to clean the air when crowds of pilgrims, having completed the Camino de Santiago, arrived in Santiago de Compostela after their long journey.

The Codex Calixtinus, the first Camino de Santiago ‘guide-book’, refers to the ‘Botafumeiro’ as Turibulum Magnum, which means this ritual has been taking place at least since the 12th century.

The current ‘Botafumeiro’ dates back to 1851, and it’s made of silver-plated brass, is 160 cm high and weighs 62kg when empty plus up to another 10 kgs more when filled with smoking coal and incense. Eight men, called ‘Tiraboleiros’, are required to operate the ‘Botafumeiro’.

The Santiago de Compostela Botafumeiro is the largest ‘Censer” in the world.

Moving forward, with the transepts to your left and right, you can focus more on the Altar Major which features St. James.

The Altar Major with three depictions of St. James (Santiago).

A closer look at Santiago, the Apostle. This depiction of St. James is the main focus of the Altar Major and is positioned just above the crypt that holds the remains of St James and two of his followers. Pilgrims can climb the steps behind him and embrace him, by placing their arms around his shoulders.

This is the crypt holding the remains of Santiago, St. James, Apostle of Jesus Christ.

This was one of only a few stain glass windows seen in the Catedral. It was located behind the Altar Major.

After his brief visit today to the old city and the Catedral, Jim hurried back to our hotel to get to work organizing his stuff for our return home,

The rest of the day was routine/uneventful. We got to bed early as our train departs for Madrid at 7:48 a.m. tomorrow morning.

Day 46 – Lavacolla to Santiago

Walked: 6.6 mi. Camino2025: 275 mi.

Today’s forecast called for temperatures in the high 90’s, so we decided to start walking at daybreak. We stamped our credential with the first sello for the day at Pención Xacobeo as we went out the door.

Linda walking past the stream that pilgrims of the middle ages used to clean themselves before walking the final miles to Santiago. Lavacolla comes from the Latin “lavamentula” which literally means, “wash private parts”. We both had our showers indoors last night so we skipped a dousing in the creek this morning.

The Camino was all on paved surfaces today, beginning with the initial climb from Lavacolla to the hamlet of Vilamaior.

We walked along large farmhouses nestled in the forest, with serious walls and fences forming barriers from passing vehicles and curious pilgrims.

We followed markers, passing a major radio/television network complex on our right, then turned left to walk by a large camping area then right a few hundred yards later with a steeplechase field on our left and corn fields on the right.

Our road formed a T, so we made a right then after a few more steps, made a left into the village of San Marcos.

It seemed like a good time for breakfast so we stopped at a modern restaurant in San Marcos and got our second sello for today, meeting our requirements for receiving a Compostela.

We walked through San Marcos and then down the steep hill past the huge sports complex that dominates Monte de Gozo.

As we left Monte de Gozo, we began the final 3 miles through suburbs of Santiago on the way to the old city and the Catedral.

The following sequence of photos shows the changing looks of our way to the Catedral:

Walkway to allow pilgrims to safely cross expressway around Santiago.

It’s Sunday morning and typically a light day for pilgrims to finish the Camino. When we arrived at the pilgrims office to receive our Compostela, Jim was the 91st recipient for today. Some 2451 pilgrims ultimately received their Compostela today.

Walking along mostly modern storefronts and eateries.

walk street… very quiet on a Sunday morning

…still a walk street, lots of bars and evidence of parties last night.

we stayed in apartment on right for 2 different past Caminos

Walking through the tunnel/passageway into Praza de Obradorio (usually with a musician performing for tips, but no one here today.)

The Catedral viewed from Obradoiro Praza

Administrative offices across the square from the Catedral.

The position of the sun made decent photos impossible, so we’ll try again tomorrow.

We continued on to the pilgrim’s office where we received our Compostela. Our wait time was 5 minutes.

Linda receiving her Compostela in the pilgrim’s office.

The crowds were huge, mostly tourists on a Sunday morning. The lines were long and the sun was getting hot. We decided to focus on getting lunch, getting checked in and settled in our hotel and plan to see the Catedral inside and get better photos during our “extra” day, tomorrow.

So Camino2025, our 7th, is now history.

More on Santiago and the Catedral and reflections on Camino 2025, to follow.

Day 45 – O Pino to Lavacolla

Walked: 7.0 mi. Camino2025: 268 mi.

The main street of O Pino was pretty quiet when we left our temporary home (on the right) crossed the street and took a moderately steep road up into the forrest.

This morning we revisited the traditional Camino route from O Pino to Amenal for the first time since 2015 (our first Camino). Since then, we have taken the route that follows the highway from O Pino to Amenal.

Pilgrim traffic started out light as we entered the eucalyptus forest.

Pilgrim traffic still light. The canine pilgrim probably has a credential for stamping, and, if so, can also receive a compostela in Santiago!

We left the forest briefly to walk into the village of Amenal.

We stopped at this albergue for breakfast, as we did 10 years ago on our first Camino.

As we finished breakfast and left Amenal, we appeared to be entering a tunnel. formed by path erosion and the overhanging trees.

As the Camino went deeper into the forest, as did we, we began a short, but quite steep climb.

We quickly remembered this climb from 2015!

Our route today merged with the route we traveled on Caminos 2-6 as we continued through the forest.

Some of these eucalyptus trees appear to reach highs of nearly 200 ft!

The diameter of this one was longer than Jim’s fully extended trekking pole length.

Pilgrim traffic began to increase as more pilgrims were passing us on their way to finishing in Santiago. It was only 9:30 and Santiago was only about 9 miles ahead.

The path began to level out as we started walking along the perimeter of the Santiago International Airport. Though hidden by the forest, the infrequent roar of jet engines taking off or landing, proved its existence. Also, souvenir venders became more frequent, giving pilgrims a seemingly ” last chance” for a Camino memento or sello.

The runway is partially visible from this short break in the forest.

The Camino took a sharp left turn as we continued to follow the airport security fence on our left and got glimpses of the expressways heading into Santiago.

The scenery was still appealing as we saw and heard the trickling creek along the path. The Camino also reminded us that its undulations were not over.

We joined a small, paved local road just before walking into San Paio (Payo) (pop.25)

We stopped for a short break and OJ at this somewhat-busy-with-pilgrims bar/restaurant in San Payo.

Here we are walking on from San Payo. Two roads ahead. Can you guess which one was the Camino: left=uphill, right=level?

We re-entered the forest after topping the hill and continued on toward Lavacolla.

The dirt path merged with the paved road into Lavacolla (pop. 171)

We were two hours early for checkin, so we got off our feet on the albergue front porch, in the shade, until Jim was sufficiently impatient, to walk another 1/4 mile to the hamlet center to check options and times for the two eateries located there.

He returned some 15 minutes later after learning that today was the beginning of a local festival and all eateries would close at 3:00 for the rest of the day. So we both then got to our feet and walked to our choice of eateries to have our main meal of the day, before checking in.

An incredible ensalada mixta for Linda and a plate of comfort food for Jim, plus, a shared glass of house wine. Yum!

After checking in around 1:00, we washed and dried clothes in the pención common area (wash=4€, dry=3€).

We also went online and registered to facilitate receiving our Compostelas, when we arrive at the pilgrims office tomorrow.

It was 89F outside and the Spain sun made it feel hotter. So, we stayed inside, in our room and blogged/read til bedtime… and texted Ron (who follows our blog each day) Happy Birthday wishes.

Day 44 – Salceda to O Pedrouzo (O Pino, Arca)

Walked: 5.6 mi. Camino2025: 261 mi.

Santiago was waiting for us as we walked out the Salceda Albergue front door this morning at 7:30. We wished each other well and said our goodbyes.

We took the “short cut” back to the Camino, exiting the albergue from the rear parking lot.

Along the shortcut, we admired these unusually dark colored hydrangeas in front of one of Santiago’s neighbors.

Jim decided to make this a “hydrangea” walk, looking for other colors along the way. We were surprised at the range of colors over the 5 plus mile walk.

Very pale blue, more typical of what we’re used to seeing, here and at home.

A nice collection forming a border for an outdoor terrace for a restaurant.

The pilgrim hoards were missing this morning. The weekend is when most pilgrims finish, if they only walk from Sarria. So, today’s evidence suggests that most of the pilgrims we saw yesterday, walked on to Santiago, or at least got close enough to Santiago to finish today.

A mile later, and only a handful of pilgrims were observed. And no pilgrim groups were seen at all.

We stopped at this bar in Brea (pop.29) that was opened after the pandemic and is located in a nice, strategic spot, for us.

Walking along the highway for a while before going back into a eucalyptus forest.

Walking between a eucalyptus forest and the highway into O Pino.

The ever present and friendly Guardia Civil.

Our home for the night in O Pino, Pención Rural Una Estrella Dorado.

Self grilling lean, tasty veal for our main meal (3:00), accompanied by fresh green salad, fries and a nice house wine.

Jim demonstrating the technique of self-grilling.

Our main meal essentially began the end of our day. After a good walk, sated appetites and full stomachs and daily routines behind us, we settled in the comfortable haven from the afternoon sun and chilled until bedtime.

Two more days to Santiago!

Day 43 – Arzúa to Salceda

Walked: 7.9 mi. Camino2025: 256 mi.

Looking back at our albergue as we departed this morning.

La Puerta de Arzúa was about 1 mile from the center of town.

Downtown Arzúa has lots of multiple story residences, office building and accommodations for pilgrims and tourists.

This huge wall mural was painted to celebrate the Jubilee years of 2021-22.

The walk today is a little longer than usual and there are not a lot of options for breakfast during the initial few miles, so we stopped for breakfast before leaving Arzúa.

Our usual breakfast at a small bar just before leaving Arzúa.

Jim chatted with a nice family from Barcelona several days ago on our way from Palas de Rei. We ended up staying in the same pención in Melide and ran into them again as we were leaving Arzúa this morning. They agreed to pose for a photo as a momento of our multiple encounters. (The cart is to give a ride to their young daughter as well as carry items they might need during the walk.)

A nice family from Barcelona that our paths have crossed multiple times in recent days. Here we met once again as we were exiting Arzúa this morning.

The Camino picked up on the edge of town and right away offered some pretty scenery.

In spite of not beginning our walk until after 8:00 a.m., when many pilgrims had already departed Arzúa, we, nevertheless began to have more and more groups of pilgrims pass us, much like yesterday.

Today seemed to be our busiest day yet on Camino2025… as shown by the following photos:

Note the group of 30 or so pilgrims up ahead that had just passed us.

More pilgrims coming up behind us with Arzúa in the background.

A break in the crowd, that lasted a few minutes.

As we climbed this hill, we were overrun by walking pilgrims, horseback riding pilgrims and bicycle riding pilgrims jamming the path.

We took a breather from the hoards at this unique bar/albergue for some OJ.

This group of 25 or so young pilgrims had matching orange shirts and worked their way past us,

We finally left the path and the never ending flood of pilgrims and took a narrow road for about 300 yards to reach our destination for the day, Albergue Touristico Salceda. It is our 7th visit and we’re looking forward to our reunion with the Lires family.

As we covered the last few steps, we walked by this huge, 200+ year old home, undoubtedly filled with an interesting history and reno possibilities, which for a brief moment tickled our fantasies. (We later learned that the house ownership is involved in family dispute and not likely to be resolved anytime soon.)

Further down the road, we saw this strange structure. Could this be a modern day horreo?… a mystery that shall remain unresolved for now.

Just inside the gate, one of several outdoor common areas on the property for guest enjoyment.

Another common area and albergue in background.

We were immediately recognized by Lucia with warm hugs and happy greetings. A few minutes later, Santiago appeared and more smiles and hugs followed. It actually felt like a family reunion.

Sanda, Lucia’s daughter, who we had never met, had recently started working in the family business and checked us into our room.

Our routine chores were lessened as we took advantage of the washing/drying service. So after showers we headed to the dining area for lunch.

For lunch Jim had Padron peppers. Only one pepper was hot and the other 30 were not, keeping with the trend that Spain’s Padron Peppers are losing their heat, but these still had the delicious unique flavor. Linda had her favorite: scrambled eggs, with asparagus and apple. We shared a tasty beef entrecôte with salad. The Mencía wine was another winner and we saved half the bottle for dinner.

The afternoon was spent doing the blog and chatting with the staff as well as pilgrims from Ireland, England, California and Idaho.

Dinner was at 7:00 p.m. and we had vegetable soup from local veggies in season. Linda had roasted chicken and Jim had salmon steak.

After dinner we chatted again with Lucia, Santiago and Sanda before taking a group photo, then called it a day.

What a wonderful day we had. A challenging walk, the anticipation of seeing the Lires family again and the warm feeling of renewing a special relationship.

Day 42 – Malide to Arzúa

Walked: 5.1 mi. Camino2025: 248 mi.

It was pouring down rain when we woke up this morning at 7:00 a.m., with thunder and lightning to boot. We checked all three weather apps and consensus was that the thunderstorms were going to stick around for another 2-3 hours.

While rain would normally not be a deterrent, having lightning around us while walking in puddles with metal lightning rods in both hands was.

So we left Pensión Orois after stalling for and hour or so, then went to the bar next door to have breakfast.

The rain storms began to let up at 9, so we started out without wearing rain gear, hoping our optimism would influence the Camino rain gods in our favor.

Starting today’s walk after a rain delay. We’re heading uphill to pass by the Iglesia de Santa María de Melide at the top.

Picking up the dirt path and going back down a steep hill on our way out of town.

It really was steep and a bit slippery after the earlier thunderstorms.

This pretty canopy has been maintained by the locals for as long as we have been walking the Camino… it’s always fun to walk under, rain or shine.

The path was a succession of uphill and downhill, passing through the hamlets of Raido and Peroxa. Some rain showers began about a mile into our walk and the rain gear came out and we continued on.

Although this horreo is much smaller than most and appears to be more decorative than functional, a closer look reveals it is a mailbox and receptor for daily bread deliveries.

Much of the walk was through forests of eucalyptus trees.

Funny how a seemingly adequate rock path across a small stream that gets slippery and wet from the rain, gets narrower when you are only halfway across.

Even Jim put on his rain gear as the showers persisted.

The path started its own streams as the rain continued.

As we walked into Boente (pop.137) the rain stopped and a few rays of sun peeped through the clouds. And brought out these, obviously, “free range” chickens.

As originally planned, when we reached Boente, we called for a taxi to take us the remaining 3 miles to Arzúa. The very steep downhill and uphill sections in the final 3 mile stretch did not appeal to us, as in more recent Caminos.

This charmer of a 91 year old local, spoke pretty good English, having spent a number of years in London. He tried to pick up Linda on our way to meet the taxi, but she declined his offer, saying she preferred younger men. Jim was relieved!

Our albergue in Arzúa. Very basic, somewhat expensive but clean and only 3 years old and available when we made reservations in Feb.

We had our main meal at the convenient restaurant next door to our albergue, after checking in.

We split an order of calamari and fries and a pizza for today’s meal and, of course, glasses of Mencía vino tinto (red wine).

The remainder of the afternoon was routine and restful. And no rain in tomorrow’s forecast. Yeah!