May 23, 2025 – Jimandi

Walked: 4.5 mi. Camino2025: 60 mi.

Walking, yes, WALKING out of Cirueña this morning, it was quite chilly (38F).

We rejoined the Camino and began the mostly straight path through the luscious green fields on the way to Santa Domingo de la Calzada.

After 2 miles we got our first sighting of Santa Domingo.., the path still sttaight ahead.

Pretty wild flowers, like these, adorned our walk along the way.

The Camino took us into the old city toward the Catedral.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada (pop.6695) takes its name from Saint Dominic, born in nearby Viloria de la Rioja. He cared for and developed sections of the Camino in this area in the 11th century including building bridges and clearing the road. Myths and legends abound about the saint, such as when he was clearing the forest he fell asleep and angels picked up his scythe and miraculously continued clearing!
The most famous legend associated with Santo Domingo is “the hanged innocent.”

On the way to Santiago, a German couple and their son, Hugonell, spent the night in the hostel in Santo Domingo. A young maid tries to seduce the handsome boy, but he rejects her. The maid feels insulted and hides a silver cup in the boy’s coat. The next morning she accuses him of theft. The young man is seized by the police and, although he proclaims his innocence before the judge, he is hanged. Before the stunned parents continue their journey, they return to the place of execution. Suddenly they hear their son’s voice. “I am not dead, Saint Domingo is holding me by the legs, I am fine”. The parents immediately go to see the judge, who has just sat down at the table, and report the incredible incident. The judge, enraged by the persistent riffraff, shouts angrily: “Your son is as surely dead as this cock and hen are dead in my plate!”. Then the cock and hen begin to flutter. The cock crows, the hen clucks and they rise and fly away. The speechless judge rushes to the place of execution with his men and sure enough, the boy is alive. They cut him down and let the relieved family move on. The maid, however, is convicted of her dastardly deed and executed in his place.

This legend dates back to the 13th century and is found in a number of sources.
In remembrance of this story, live chickens are kept in the Catedral that are said to be the descendants of the resurrected fowl in the story. A piece of the gallows is displayed on Santo Domingo’s tomb, located in the Catedral.

The chickens are housed in this display with a piece of the gallows mounted above.

Statue of Saint Dominic de la Calzada over his tomb in the Catedral.

The Catedral Tower is not attached to the Catedral. The original was struck by lightning and burned. The current tower is the tallest in La Rioja.

From the Catedral we took a taxi to avoid walking the next 14 miles to Belorado. We checked in at 12:00 and enjoyed a very large comfortable room, and a fancy, spacious bathroom and shower.

A restful afternoon was spent doing chores, napping and blogging. We took a main meal break at 3:00 and enjoyed one of our favorite culinary experiences on the Camino.