Today’s walk can be summarized in one word, “rain”
It began raining 5 minutes after we walked out of Casa Cines and continued as showers or a soaking drizzle until we reached Barbadelo, five hours later.
We got out of the rain for breakfast just outside of Sarria. We got relief in a hiking gear store while buying Linda a poncho that didn’t leak. We got a 5 minute break in a small grocery store to replenish our snack supply. We made a rest stop/ Colacao break also in Sarria. Linda waited under an awning in Sarria while Jim hunted for an ATM to replenish our stash of €’s.
All the rest of the morning, we walked in the rain.
We only snapped a few photos, to keep from soaking Jim’s iPhone, but the scenery was limited for us too, as we were looking at our feet most of the way, dodging puddles.
Joining the dirt path as we left PintinThe Camino took us through this area of forest before crossing a local roadAnother section of forest shortly after leaving Pintin on the way to SarriaSome construction was obstructing the Camino as we walked through this small hamlet, but the workers waved us through.Walking along the road between Pintin and SatriaCrossing a medieval bridge as we left Sarria. Linda wearing her new poncho. We trashed the old on on the way out of the store.This was near the end of a steep hill after Sarria and just before Barbadelo
To add to the fun, when we got to Barbadelo, our albergue had a strict check-in time of 1:30, so we has an early lunch/dinner in the albergue restaurant to kill time while waiting for our room to be ready. The restaurant was also dry and a little warmer than in the rain.
We finally checked in at 2:00, did our chores and hibernated in our room for the rest of the day, to stay warm and dry.
To go along with the rest of the day’s happenings, our room is the smallest we have had so far and we share a bathroom with three other rooms… so, limited space to hang our wet things to dry overnight. We do have a portable heater, though.
The forecast for tomorrow is “more of the same!” ☹️
The sky was clear when we left Fonfria this morning, so we were hopeful that the spectacular views of today’s walk would be at their best.
The view as we walked out of FonfriaOur usual breakfast stop was about a mile into our walk in the Galícian hamlet of Biduedo (pop. 37)A routine breakfast at Casa Quirogaa typical Galícian home in BiduedoOops! Where did all that fog come from?Nothing to see but fog this morningThis is what it looks like without the fog (2023 blog photo)Literally walking in the cloudsNot much of a viewa hint of clearingCattle grazing just off the path… no hint of a vast valley belowa mountain emerging first view of the valley as we begin a major descent heading down the mountainmore clearing as we descendalmost clear as we approach Fillobal
We stopped at a favorite bar in Fillobal. The friendly owner has been very nice to us every time we stop. She recognized us today. Our last visit was a year ago!
She recognized Jim as he took this photo.Her delicious tortilla and apple tartes are specialties of the house and homemade by our friend.
Rested from our descent to Fillobal, we said our goodbyes and continued on toward Tricastella.
This was just after leaving Fillobal for the final descent into TricastellaA typical look to the final 2 miles into Tricastella very old chestnut tree in RamilOur welcome into Tricastella Our stopping point for the day in Tricastella.
We arrived in Tricastella after a 6 mile, 3000 ft elevation descent from Fonfria. After a Colacao and a brief chat with two pilgrims from Nova Scotia, we called a taxi.
The taxi ride followed the Camino, a narrow, 1 1/2 lane road for the 7 miles from Tricastella to Pintin, our destination for the day.
This will be our 6th visit to Casa Cines, a small hotel in this hamlet on the Camino just a few miles before Sarria.
This family-owned gem has been like a home on the Camino for us. Núria, the manager has been a friend and an excellent resource to help us with a variety of needs beginning with our first visit in 2015. She and her family have treated us like family… a most cherished experience of the Camino.
the calm at Casa Cines in late afternoon after pilgrims have moved on to Sarria and beyondCasa Cines in late afternoon
Tonight we had dinner in the restaurant. Jim ordered a pizza and Linda went with a mixed salad, followed by chicken and fries. The tomatoes in Linda’s salad were especially delicious. After Jim sampled a couple of bites, he, quietly, we thought, commented on how tasty they were. A few minutes passed and Nũria’s dad (who had apparently grown the tomatoes), brought an extra plate with an array of tomatoes seasoned only with sea salt and placed it on our table without comment, except for a thumbs up to Jim.
Surprise for Jim and dessert!
Jim proceeded to OD on the sumptuous tomatoes that were bursting with flavor. He even declined dessert in order to finish off the remaining tomatoes.
We settled our bill after dinner and shared hugs along with goodbyes, continuing the warm relationship we have with this delightful family.
We were presented with a small sack of the tomatoes to take with us tomorrow… we can see tomato sandwiches or something tomato tomorrow for sure.
Tomatoes to go.
Jim carefully packed them into his day pack to ensure they don’t get squished or bruised during our walk tomorrow.
We started the day with a taxi ride to Cebreiro. This allowed us to skip the 11 miles section of the Camino from Trabadelo, which continued along the road through the Valcarce Valley, then on to the path up the mountain to Cebreiro, the first official town in Galicia. The driver dropped us off at the exit of Cebreiro, where we began walking at an elevation of 4265 ft.
Taking a look at the scenery before starting our walk at Cebreiro.Leaving Cebreiro
We followed a roller coaster like path going up and down until finally reaching Liñares, a potential breakfast stop.
A disappointed Linda walks by our hoped-for breakfast stop.
But not only had it begun to rain, but Liñares, (pop.69) was quiet and the breakfast stop was closed up tight at 9:00 on this Sunday morning.
We kept on walking as the rain continued.
Linda’s socks and sandals were soaked long before we reached this point.The pilgrim statue at Alto San Roque was hardly visible in the rain and fog
The rain began to let up as we continued walking in the clouds.
Patches of blue tried to peek through the clouds as we approached our next potential breakfast stop, Hospital de la Condesa.
Weather looking better with Hospital visible in the distancePretty flowers joyfully greeting the sunmushrooms emerging tooLinda still dodging rain puddles, as if it made any difference to her wet shoes and socks.At 10:15, things were looking better, now, if only our breakfast spot is open.
Not only was the Mesón O Tear bar open, but we remembered that we had previously ranked it high in the category of “the best toast on the Camino.”
and the winner is …..
After one bite, it was no contest, the Mesón O Tear tostados is the best on the Camino Frances.
As we left Mesón O Tear after our breakfast, the passing bovines get the right-of-way.Back on the path after leaving Hospitalpretty scenery exposed as rain clouds try to move on.different path, more mountain sceneryWe spotted this bull (lower left) grazing on the hillsidePassing a small church just before the climb
The next few photos show Linda’s progress up a rather steep grade to Alto de Poio, the highest point on today’s walk at 4480 ft.
A rooster and three hens cheering Linda on as she crests the Alto de Poio.
We stopped at the bar atop Poio for fresh squeezed OJ. We also had an interesting chat with two peregrinas from Montreal. This delay enabled us time to catch our breath and it gave the rain clouds long enough to re-position themselves, so we would need our rain gear again on the final 2-mile walk into Fonfria.
heading toward Fonfria before a final shower
We walked into Fonfria at 2:00, found Casa Nuñez, checked in, were taken to our room and immediately returned to the Albergue restaurant for our lunch/dinner for the day.
Albergue Reboleira and Casa Nuñez of Fonfria
Our lunch was a little different as not all the offerings were available until the 7:00 pilgrim dinner.
Linda had fresh, sliced tomatoes with fresh cheese and a chicken and rice plate. Jim had a Spanish omelette with a tomato and tuna salad. For dessert, Linda saved some of her fresh cheese and drizzled on some local honey and Jim has Santiago cake.
We had a routine afternoon and evening in a spacious modern room.
We finished the day in Fonfria, elevation 4265 ft. The same elevation as we started at in Cebreiro.
The graph below shows where we ended yesterday (Trabadelo), where we ended today (Fonfria) and where we will end tomorrow(Tricastella).
It was drizzling as we left Viña Femita so we donned our ponchos and hoped for the best.
This street from our hostal to the bridge actoss the river was being redone with sidewalks and new stones. We had to watch our step with the construction and an occasional puddle.Pilgrim statue on the right as we walk over the Rio Burbia.Picturesque homes hanging on the edge of the mountain along the Rio Burbiaonce across the river, the road began to climb out of VillafrancaThe Valvarce River was on our left and flowing into the Rio Burbia.Another pretty riverside home reached out to Jim as we headed upward into the gap between the mountainsmountains ahead of us… thank goodness we walk through the gap not over the top. There is an alternate path that veered right as we left town that climbs up to the top and looks down on “our” gap, but we didn’t even consider it… different strokes for different folks.the sidewalk on the right completed during or after the pandemic made the walk safer to halfway up the hill. Today, it had been completed all the way to the junction of A-6. A nice improvement and safer for pilgrims.the path “new” endingthe junction with A-6 and the beginning of the road through the mountain gap with crash barriers to keep pilgrims from bumping into vehicles.This was the look of today’s walk 90% of the way.Look familiar?A-6 crossing over us, surprisingly quietWe had a slight relief from the crash-barrier road walk through Pereje, but it was more depressing than anything else.This used to be a nice breakfast stop in ” main street”. The bar is on the left with Spanish flags and a nice terrace with customer spillover tucked on the right. Unfortunately it’s never been open since 2019. Possibly a victim of the pandemic, it has a “cerrado” sign on the bar door with no further explanation and the terrace has a mean looking chain blocking its use by walkers-by.More walking in the gap
We got to the turnoff for Trabadelo after 5.5 miles. It had started raining more seriously a few minutes before, but our ponchos were still handy. We arrived Nova Ruta as the rain began to taper off, entered the Hotel Rural bar and had breakfast.
We checked in around 11:45, but our hotel restaurant was going to close at noon for the rest of the day. This was a disappointment because during our previous three visits, we have enjoyed their meals which featured local dishes.
While waiting for our room to be ready, Jim discovered a bottle of wine from one of the small vineyards we walked through yesterday, among others on a shelf in the bar and purchased it.
We got lunch/dinner at a nearby albergue and returned to our Hotel. We purposely had water with our meal, so we could sip the Bierzo wine throughout the afternoon… sharing a glass with the grateful hotel owner, who was still hanging around, waiting for a late arriving guest.
Our Bierzo wine was enjoyed by all.
Rain showers continued off and on all afternoon and evening while we completed our chores and prepped for tomorrow’s walk… probably also in the rain.
We walked past the Iglesia de Santa María at daybreak. It was closed whenever we attempted to look inside all day yesterday, like many of the churches on the Camino (makes no sense to us, but we’ve come to expect it).
Iglesia de Santa María
The walk out of Cacabelos was on a sidewalk to just beyond the town limits. We then walked on a narrow path along a two lane highway for a mile or so where we had a choice to continue along the road or go right into the vineyards. We chose the vineyards.
A winery for Godello grapes, a regional varietal for very nice white wines.stay along the highway (left) or through the vineyards ( right)we walked along the right fork for a few hundred yards, with Cacabelos behind us and below the attempt at a sunrise.leaving the pavement into the vineyardspickers looking for and gathering grapesOne of many family owned vineyards with many vines over 100 years old.
After a few minutes walking through the vineyards, we came upon the village of Valtuille de Arriba (pop. 139). It was interesting that many of the dwellings, as we walked through the apparent middle of the village were in ruins while some looked occupied and in various stages of renovation. Several were partially renovated and clearly occupied with the rest of the structure in a state of ruin. There was one stairway leaving to the only albergue in the village with two transported backpacks left on the stairs. No other shops or stores were apparent. What was strange was the sense of relative silence with so many buildings and so little activity at 9:00. It was sad but at the same time there was a sense that all was not lost and renewal was underway.
very old steps to ?a modern house near the edge of town, amid the ruinsthe paved village road ended as we exited the village back into the vineyardsback on the pathlooking back at Valtuille de Arriba
We enjoyed the changing views of vineyards, mountains in the distance and encountered only a dozen pilgrims (all who passed us), and glad we had avoided the walk along the road and the car noise.
Our first view if Villfranca del BierzoThe road route cut into the vineyards and joined us just before walking into Villafrancaleaving the path, back onto paved roada half mile or so paved path until reaching the edge of Villfranca del Bierzo( pop. 3500)walking into VillafrancaIglesia de SantiagoThe door of pardon. This was a doorway for pilgrims who were too sick to continue to Santiago. They could walk through the door in lieu of completing the pilgrimage and receive the same indulgences. Thankfully, we think we can make it to Santiago.The 16th century Castle/Palace of the Marqueses of Villafranca was destroyed by the British in early 19th century. Now privately owned and not open to the public.Breakfast in a popular stop just into Villafranca
After a 1:00 check-in at Hostal Viña Femita, (our 3rd stay), we walked to Plaza Mayor for lunch/dinner.
Viña FemitaPlaza Mayor in Villafranca de BierzoLunch 1st course
Linda had a craving for Ensalada Rusa and Jim wanted to try the Caldo Gallego (Galicia soup). For second course Jim had sea bass and Linda had veal along with a nice house Mencía wine.
On our way back to our room, the forecasted rain for the day occurred in the form of a few light sprinkles that were handled easily by our rain jackets.
The narrow streets of Villafranca and imaginary sidewalks
The Bierzo region of Spain is unique for its ideal conditions to produce great tasting wines, from Mencía, Godello and other minor grape variants. Bierzo wines are emerging as some of the best in the world. Jim spent much of the afternoon, learning more about them stimulated by the reality that we walked through some of the same vineyards today that are sourcing these wines. Hopefully, some of these now familiar wines will find their way to the U.S., if they haven’t already, for us to enjoy.
The remainder of the afternoon and evening became routine, we published the day’s blog and called it a day.
Today’s walk was just what we needed. The first half was on flat, mostly wide city sidewalks with plenty of places to stop for a break. The second half was back on the dirt path, through mostly vineyards and an occasional shady group of trees or gently, undemanding rolling hills.
shortly after leaving our hotel in a modern section of PonferradapWe wondered if the architect or construction contractor was changed at mid-project on this unusual building just outside of Ponferrada center.our first breakfast stop was a bar next door to a park Nice wide, level sidewalksa second stop at a popular neighborhood barsidewalks narrowed some as we entered CamponarayaIntetesting house in this Bierzo communitya third stop before leaving Camponaraya walking by a Bierzo wine cooperative as we left Camponaraya looking back, thankfully on the mountains we crossed yesterdaysidewalks gone, back on the dirt pathWe walked through vineyards for most of the second half of our walk
Most of the vineyards have been harvested by now, but an occasional bunch of grapes could be seen among the vines. We observed several groups of three or four people apparently looking for “missed” grapes and we passed a small vehicle with evidence of their “bounty”. We wondered if it was a common practice for the large vineyard owners to allow locals to come behind and retrieve any unharvested grapes for personal use.
“missed” grapes collected by 4 guys this morningthese two tubs of grapes probably will need to go in another vehiclenice, shady stroll breaking the monotony of the vineyardsWe walked by a small grove of olive trees but unlike the grapes, it appears they are not yet ready for harvest.Dirt path ending as we take the paved road into Cacabelos Cacabelos aheadTypical buildings on the Camino in Cacabelos
We checked in to La Gallaga albergue shortly after noon. We’ve stayed here twice before and while we waited for our packs to arrive, had pizza for our main meal.
Once the packs arrived, we gathered all our dirty clothes and took advantage of the washer and dryer facilities in addition to following our other routine chores for the day.
Today was a good recovery day, even though our distance walked was similar to yesterday.
Rain is in the forecast for the next few days, adding some variety to our prep for tomorrow. And we crossed the 200 mile mark today! Time sure flies on the Camino.
Jimandi 