Day 36- Trabadelo to Fonfria

Depart Time: 8:40 Temp: 53F RH: 95%

Walked: 7.6 mi. Camino 2024: 220 mi.

We started the day with a taxi ride to Cebreiro. This allowed us to skip the 11 miles section of the Camino from Trabadelo, which continued along the road through the Valcarce Valley, then on to the path up the mountain to Cebreiro, the first official town in Galicia. The driver dropped us off at the exit of Cebreiro, where we began walking at an elevation of 4265 ft.

Taking a look at the scenery before starting our walk at Cebreiro.
Leaving Cebreiro

We followed a roller coaster like path going up and down until finally reaching Liñares, a potential breakfast stop.

A disappointed Linda walks by our hoped-for breakfast stop.

But not only had it begun to rain, but Liñares, (pop.69) was quiet and the breakfast stop was closed up tight at 9:00 on this Sunday morning.

We kept on walking as the rain continued.

Linda’s socks and sandals were soaked long before we reached this point.
The pilgrim statue at Alto San Roque was hardly visible in the rain and fog

The rain began to let up as we continued walking in the clouds.

Patches of blue tried to peek through the clouds as we approached our next potential breakfast stop, Hospital de la Condesa.

Weather looking better with Hospital visible in the distance
Pretty flowers joyfully greeting the sun
mushrooms emerging too
Linda still dodging rain puddles, as if it made any difference to her wet shoes and socks.
At 10:15, things were looking better, now, if only our breakfast spot is open.

Not only was the Mesón O Tear bar open, but we remembered that we had previously ranked it high in the category of “the best toast on the Camino.”

and the winner is …..

After one bite, it was no contest, the Mesón O Tear tostados is the best on the Camino Frances.

As we left Mesón O Tear after our breakfast, the passing bovines get the right-of-way.
Back on the path after leaving Hospital
pretty scenery exposed as rain clouds try to move on.
different path, more mountain scenery
We spotted this bull (lower left) grazing on the hillside
Passing a small church just before the climb

The next few photos show Linda’s progress up a rather steep grade to Alto de Poio, the highest point on today’s walk at 4480 ft.

A rooster and three hens cheering Linda on as she crests the Alto de Poio.

We stopped at the bar atop Poio for fresh squeezed OJ. We also had an interesting chat with two peregrinas from Montreal. This delay enabled us time to catch our breath and it gave the rain clouds long enough to re-position themselves, so we would need our rain gear again on the final 2-mile walk into Fonfria.

heading toward Fonfria before a final shower

We walked into Fonfria at 2:00, found Casa Nuñez, checked in, were taken to our room and immediately returned to the Albergue restaurant for our lunch/dinner for the day.

Albergue Reboleira and Casa Nuñez of Fonfria

Our lunch was a little different as not all the offerings were available until the 7:00 pilgrim dinner.

Linda had fresh, sliced tomatoes with fresh cheese and a chicken and rice plate. Jim had a Spanish omelette with a tomato and tuna salad. For dessert, Linda saved some of her fresh cheese and drizzled on some local honey and Jim has Santiago cake.

We had a routine afternoon and evening in a spacious modern room.

We finished the day in Fonfria, elevation 4265 ft. The same elevation as we started at in Cebreiro.

The graph below shows where we ended yesterday (Trabadelo), where we ended today (Fonfria) and where we will end tomorrow(Tricastella).

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