Depart Time: 7:40 Temp: 56 F RH: 85 %
Walked: 6.3 mi. Camino 2024: 206 mi.
We walked past the Iglesia de Santa María at daybreak. It was closed whenever we attempted to look inside all day yesterday, like many of the churches on the Camino (makes no sense to us, but we’ve come to expect it).
The walk out of Cacabelos was on a sidewalk to just beyond the town limits. We then walked on a narrow path along a two lane highway for a mile or so where we had a choice to continue along the road or go right into the vineyards. We chose the vineyards.
After a few minutes walking through the vineyards, we came upon the village of Valtuille de Arriba (pop. 139). It was interesting that many of the dwellings, as we walked through the apparent middle of the village were in ruins while some looked occupied and in various stages of renovation. Several were partially renovated and clearly occupied with the rest of the structure in a state of ruin. There was one stairway leaving to the only albergue in the village with two transported backpacks left on the stairs. No other shops or stores were apparent. What was strange was the sense of relative silence with so many buildings and so little activity at 9:00. It was sad but at the same time there was a sense that all was not lost and renewal was underway.
We enjoyed the changing views of vineyards, mountains in the distance and encountered only a dozen pilgrims (all who passed us), and glad we had avoided the walk along the road and the car noise.
After a 1:00 check-in at Hostal Viña Femita, (our 3rd stay), we walked to Plaza Mayor for lunch/dinner.
Linda had a craving for Ensalada Rusa and Jim wanted to try the Caldo Gallego (Galicia soup). For second course Jim had sea bass and Linda had veal along with a nice house Mencía wine.
On our way back to our room, the forecasted rain for the day occurred in the form of a few light sprinkles that were handled easily by our rain jackets.
The Bierzo region of Spain is unique for its ideal conditions to produce great tasting wines, from Mencía, Godello and other minor grape variants. Bierzo wines are emerging as some of the best in the world. Jim spent much of the afternoon, learning more about them stimulated by the reality that we walked through some of the same vineyards today that are sourcing these wines. Hopefully, some of these now familiar wines will find their way to the U.S., if they haven’t already, for us to enjoy.
The remainder of the afternoon and evening became routine, we published the day’s blog and called it a day.
Jimandi 