Depart Time: 8:05. Temp: 44F RH: 85%
Walked: 7.3 mi. Camino 2024: 192 mi.
Today was surprisingly our most difficult of Camino2024.
When we left Foncebadón this morning we were looking forward to seeing the Cruz de Ferro again and to taking in some beautiful mountain scenery.
The walk to Cruz de Ferro went as expected and we did see some beautiful scenery. But shortly after leaving the “Cruz” and for the remaining 6 miles, we spent most of the time looking at our feet.
We reached the ridge that would lead to El Acebo (pop. 37), the end of our walk for the day. As the Clouds dissipated from a persistent morning sun, a beautiful cloudless blue sky emerged revealing the mountains and valleys along this section of the Camino.
This enigmatic little spot features a most unusual albergue, administrated by Tomás who considers himself a modern-day Templar, last of his order. Drinks and snacks are normally available as well as a none-too-private outhouse.
While the scenery was awesome, for the entire walk, the path was overgrown in places, rendering poles useless and blocking the view.
Trying to enjoy the views became hazardous when, without warning, a steep ascent, or descent, while short would be dominated by loose stones, some quite large and sharp edged shale, challenging any attempt at establishing firm footing.
Many pilgrims will ignore the footing issues we refer to. They pass us, sometimes nearly running up or down in areas that slow us up. All are much younger than we and others take Camino ending risks, we are unwilling to take.
We both have minor knee issues that we strive to keep that way, by being more careful. Linda wears sandals on the Camino to prevent blisters, a choice that had yielded good results for all of our Caminos. But sandals make it more of a challenge to deal with loose stones and uneven surfaces like we experienced today.
Further, because of our approach, our leg muscles are more tense and work harder as we walk more carefully, increasing the level of fatigue of a walk like today.
The following are the views and some of the terrain that made today a challenge for us.
Bottom line, we finished today’s walk without injury. It didn’t kill us, so we’ll probably be stronger as a result. And the relief we felt when the taxi arrived in El Acebo to allow us to skip the treacherous walk into Molinasaca and the monotonous walk from there to Ponferrada was a suitable reward for today’s performance.
And tomorrow’s 7 mile walk on relatively flat, foot friendly surfaces should be a “piece of cake”.
Buen Camino, y’all!
Jimandi 