Depart Time: 7:30. Temp: 65F RH: 85%
Walked today: 7.0 mi. Camino 2024: 21.6 mi.
From our hotel, a 10 minute taxi ride took us to the outskirts of Pamplona and the village of Zaraguiqui. At the only bar, we chatted with a pilgrim from Ireland, who was running, not walking, the Camino. After buying a banana to tie us over until breakfast in Uterga, we began walking.
Today’s initial challenge was a 1.5 mile walk climbing 500 ft (average grade of 6%) to the Alto del Perdon.
The next few photos were taken of the terrain down the mountain. The loose rocks presented a challenge for maintaining stable footing. Several 20-something pilgrims passed us, seemingly undaunted, but for our nearly 80 year old bones, joints and muscles… it was an injury in the making. Consequently, we slowed our pace, watched every step and relied on our trekking poles to minimize slipping… and made it safely down the mountain nearly a hour later.
We reached Uterga a little over 4 miles and 3 hours into our walk. This village has served as a breakfast stop for all of our Caminos. It has a nice selection of food choices, clean restrooms and comfortable indoor and ourdoor seating… a real oasis after a tough walk.
But tragically, this morning it was closed for the weekend fiesta (staff must have been sleeping off the Saturday evening late celebrations. (Jim was so disappointed, he forgot to snap a photo of the locked bar/albergue gate). So we walked on, not hopeful that we would get a break before Obaños, our destination for the day.
On our walk into Zubiri a couple of days ago, Jim developed as issue with the “pinkie” on his left foot. Being seasoned pilgrims, we know the importance of keeping toenails closely trimmed. A too-long toenail can irritate an adjacent toe, causing a blister or break the skin, either one resulting an uncomfortable camino
A too-long toenail can also create a problem when walking downhill by repeatedly jamming into the end of one’s boot or shoe. The result can be a painful process of ultimately loosing the toenail and possible infection. Or it can cause a blister to form under the toenail, which is also difficult to treat and painful until corrected.
Jim failed to trim the left edge of the toenail on his left foot and on the last mile into Zubiri, his oversight, resulted in a jammed pinkie toenail the created a blister under the nail and a potentially lost nail.
Seasoned pilgrims obviously can get careless with their feet and this one is paying for it with nagging pain with every step.
After treating the “injury” and wearing sandals (open toe) on our rest day in Pamplona, Jim started today wearing his boots. All initially went well, until, on the way down from Alto de Perdon, the injury became irritated and started to get uncomfortable. This morning, Jim added his sandals to his day pack, as we left the hotel… just in case.
So, when we got to Uterga this morning, Jim switched to his sandals and got relief for the painful pinkie.
The sign going into Muruzábal claims that plenty of services are available, but our previous 5 walks through this small village have yielded nothing open. So our expectations for a bar for anything to eat or drink and restrooms were very low.
But, today, halfway down the last street in the village we observed some local residents sitting outside a small building and apparently drinking and eating. And alas, we were rewarded with beverages, some leftover pintxos on the counter, and restrooms.
At 7:00 p.m. we were treated to a homemade dinner prepared by Elena, our host. Before becoming the owner of Casa Raichu, Elena owned a bakery.
A peach, pineapple and whipped cream dessert was finished with a hot menthe tea. Our total meal including wine was 15€. Our clothing was washed, dried and folded for 10€.
We concluded dinner and the evening with kudos for Elena and shared European hugs.
Jimandi 