leaving Arzúa at daybreakWe joined the dirt path less than a hundred yards from our pension.Sections of deep, earthen paths were frequent occurrences during today’s walk.Breakfast stop #1: Not many pilgrims here at first, so we ordered and had a table and used restrooms without waiting, then, whosh!!!… it looked like this as we moved on...: the crowds lightened up a bit as we passed under the main road… …. within another few minutes the path filled up again as faster pilgrims walked by.
We walked on the relatively flat path for a while meandering through small neighborhoods of just a few farm houses each. Soon after, we returned to the woods and some uphill and downhills just to make it interesting.
a long gradual slope through mostly eucalyptus trees mixed with some pines and hardwoods (probably oak based on all the acorns popping under our shoes).We thought about stopping here for breakfast #2 but it was too crowded (no place to sit, lines too long)We walked through several flat, wide dirt paths that we hoped would provide some shielding if the threatening clouds delivered the forecasted rain for late morning. The wide paths also allowed for elbow room with the passing pilgrim surges.This section was heavily forested with eucalyptus trees.We also walked through several areas with these deep earthen paths… this one was just before stopping for a belated breakfast #2.We stopped for hot chocolate and a rest-stop at this unusual bar/albergue with a horreo hovering over the path.Linda stirring her hot chocolate at Casa do Horreo.We saw this beautiful palm tree and thought we might have entered a time warp back to South Carolina.Just before Salceda we passed a section with several large homes using hydrangea bushes as a buffer to line the path on both sides. We named it Hydrangea Lane because of the huge blossoms. As we closed in on Salceda, we thought the pilgrims might be thinning out, so we made one final stop for breakfast #3 at the last bar with services on today’s walk.Just as we got back on the path some 15 minutes later, still another surge engulfed us as we walked the final half-mile to our destination for the day.
We arrived at Albergue Turistico Salceda at noon and were recognized by Lyudmila Lires, Santiago Lires’ daughter. We were so happy to be welcomed so enthusiastically and to hear that she and her family were well. This is our 5th visit since 2015.
The front of Albergue Turistico Salcedathe barthe dining areaour roomSantiago’s daughter, Lyudmila, and co-manager of the Hotel Rural.steps between ground and first floorprimero plata (second floor hallway). Santiago’s daughter, Sandra, plays the viola.Our ‘light’ lunch: Ensalada Mixta (best on Camino2023 so far) for Jim. Linda’s favorite salad discovered here several Caminos ago (apple, eggs, asparagus)Crepes for dessertPork cheeks for Jim. Linda went light with homemade vegetable soup. Santiago was the chef for both delicious Galícian specialties.
After dinner we settled our bill and chatted briefly with our hosts, wishing each other well, in case we didn’t connect tomorrow morning. The highlight of today was our reunion with two special friends we have made on the Camino Frances.
Jimandi 