Astorga to Santa Catalina de Somoza

Walked today: 5.86 mi. Camino2023: 199 mi

Wall murals are a frequent occurrence along the Camino and a really interesting way to celebrate the history or humanity or anything characteristic of a community.
side view of the Catedral de Astorga, built in 1394 on the site of a mosque.
The Episcopal Palace, one of only 3 buildings designed by Antoni Gaudi outside of Catalonia. Originally intended as a bishop’s residence it currently is a museum of religious art, dedicated to the Way of Santiago.
the front of the Catedral de Santa María de Astorga.
a more modern church we passed on our way out of Astorga

Right after walking past the church, our pilgrim friends from Australia, last seen 5 days ago, walked past us and said in passing they were walking 38km today! We wished them “Buen Camino”. We’re thankfully doing only 10km.

After walking on sidewalks through and nearly a mile after Astorga, we’re crossing a autovia here, still on pavement/sidewalk.
We finally left the pavement onto a gravel path and shortly entered the outskirts of a Maragatos village.
Just finishing breakfast at “Bar Cris” in the Maragato village of Murias de Rechivaldo.

The Maragatos are an ethnic group of about 4,000 people who are believed to be the last Moorish people in Spain. They were descended from the Berbers of North Africa who crossed into the Iberian peninsula with the first Moorish incursions in the early eighth century. They were first recorded in this area in the 10th century. They used mules to transport fish to Madrid and ferry the Spanish monarch’s gold from place to place. In the 1830s, one British traveller, Richard Ford, compared their insularity to that of the Jews and the gypsies. Like the Jews, they are renowned as traders and businessmen and their success has historically prompted jealousy.

back on the gravel path to Santa Catalina de Somoza
being passed by a family of 5 from South Korea. We first met them in Belorado and have been “hopscotching” with them since.
great shot at entrance of Santa Catalina de Somoza, courtesy of our South Korean pilgrim friends
our residence on the Camino for today in Santa Catalina de Somoza: Via Avis
our room and courtyard for Via Avis
The Salon, common area for guests with comfortable seating and views of nearby valley and mountains.
just off the reception area, a common seating area for guests and a still operative wood oven for warmth. A buffet breakfast is a special offering for guests.
Lunch/dinner is not available at Via Avis, so we walked to a nearby albergue where we have stayed twice and eaten frequently for our main meal: Eggs, bacon, salad, olives, wine and fresh bread.

Via Avis was opened 6 years ago by a couple: Daina, from Lithuania and Carlos, from Spain. They converted the ruins of a very historic house into an extraordinary B&B located in what is otherwise a struggling Maragato village of 90 inhabitants.

According to oral traditions, the original town was abandoned and likely destroyed due to an epidemic many years ago, with the surviving residents returning to rebuild it from the ground up. The house was originally built by professional stonemasons for an unknown but likely important person.

There is an inscription over the original door, dated 1776, proclaiming that the inhabitants were Christians, to avoid persecution or being expelled as were Muslim or Jews of that era.

The house was last occupied in the 19th century by the president of the local town council. Also, according to local tradition, when Napoleon over ran Astorga and subsequently occupied the town in the 19th century, he seized the house and used it as a temporary troops headquarters.

Totally fascinated but exhausted from all the historical research, Jim decided to end his blogging for the day.

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