Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

Walked today: 7.1 mi Camino 2023: 129 mi

Here’s our taxi to pick us up at El Cid and take us to Tarjados

The 15 minute taxi ride through the not-so-Camino like residential areas of Burgos and crossing several major highway interchanges, took us to an Albergue at the entrance of Tardajos, where we have stayed before. We were expecting a nice breakfast to begin our walk. However, it was closed at 6:30 with no signs if opening any time soon, so we continued on.

The walk through the village of Tardajos is always amazing, because it is literally a maze. If you are not careful looking for insidiously placed Camino arrows, you may never find your way through the town. We did it once, in the dark, and almost never made it to the end!

This morning we made it without any deviations … Linda, leading the way, could possibly have been a factor. It was also broad daylight, not dark, at 6:30 a.m.

Entering “Rabe”, about a mile beyond Tardajos.
Rabé de las Calzadas: Convent off to the left and church in center of village.
We stopped at La Fuente Bar/Albergue for a nice breakfast. Owner and wife were very friendly and gave us plenty of butter and jelly for our toast without being asked!

At breakfast we chatted briefly with a couple from Hong Kong. They had walked several different Caminos before and had done the Camino Frances before in 29 days. They were doing it for the second time but in 41 days instead. They weren’t walking especially fast, as they didn’t pass us all the way to Hornillos and we saw them pass through the village some 30 minutes after us. They apparently didn’t walk faster, just longer, each day.

wall art seen on buildings as we exited Rabé
finally back on the familiar gravel path of the Camino on our way out of Rabé de las Calzadas.
A reassuring Guardia Civil vehicle passed us on the way up to the meseta.
on our way up to the meseta we saw this field of “baby” sunflower” plants
we finally reached the meseta for the first time for Camino2023. Burgos off in the distance as we look back
ahead of us, the expanse of the meseta.

Once on the meseta, we saw several hundred wind powered turbines while walking the initial 3 miles, taking advantage of the terrain to generate power for the area.

the beautiful simplicity of the meseta.
the warning sign for “Mule Killer” hill which goes down from the meseta into the village of Hornillos del Camino.
Linda getting up her nerve to take on the descent of Mule Killer hill
on the way down
“main street”, the only street, through Hornillos del Camino ( pop.61 )

Meeting Point Albergue was not open when we arrived at around 10 a.m. so we got fresh squeezed orange juice at the only open bar in the village and killed a couple of hours chatting with passing by pilgrims and partaking of the restroom facilities, while we waited.

Finally at 11:45, the door opened at the albergue and we were the first to check in. Once in our room, we grabbed our basque shopping bag and headed for the small, but fruitful market a few steps from Meeting Point and shopped, with the help of the friendly proprietor of the market, for our lunch. (this albergue and most albergues serve only dinner and breakfast, if that).

Our self-catered lunch: Bocadillos of fresh bread, ham and cheese, olives, chips, gazpacho, Rioja crianza wine.

After a delicious, satisfying lunch, we performed our afternoon chores, then blogged and read and napped the rest of the afternoon until the 7:00 pilgrims dinner.

Fourteen pilgrims attended the dinner tonight, featuring the albergue’s traditional menu of paella, green salad, local wine and a lemon yogurt for dessert. Most of our conversation was with nearby pilgrims: a couple from California doing their first Camino after postponing it due to the pandemic, a young lady from Germany who originally planned to walk the Camino to contemplate her future after graduating from college, but received a job offer in June and accepted it contingent on her being able to walk the Camino first (her new employer agreed), and a gentleman of 80 years from Leon, France who is on his first Camino, which he began in La Puy en Velay, France, making his Camino nearly 1000 miles when he gets to Santiago.

As with all our Caminos, we meet interesting people from all over the planet and share stories and experiences and motivations for being here. Pilgrim dinners are an excellent forum to do this and tonight was no exception.

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