Los Arcos to Viana

Walked today: 5.2 mi Camino2023: 71.8

We began walking at 5:45! It was still dark so we used a headlamp for the first mile or so, until first light made the lamp unnecessary.

walking at first light

The path was very straight, flat and monotonous for the first 90 minutes, making it easy to walk, as if still asleep, which might well have been the case.

after 2.5 miles, still straight ahead

our first hill and a slight wiggle in the path

finally… a bend in the path
and after another hill, onto pavement
arriving at Sansol … no reason to stop…
the view approaching Torres del Rio
taking an alternate and shorter route into Torres del Rio.

Torres del Rio is the end of our walk today. Otherwise we would need to walk another very difficult 8 miles before the next stop. We did that walk in 2014, 2017 and 2019, but skipped it in 2022 as part of our modified Camino and again today.

We plan to catch the 11:25 bus from here to Viana, where we have reservations for tonight.

To occupy the almost 3 hour wait, we had breakfast and then camped out in the patio and lobby of La Pata de Oca, where we stayed in 2017. Our bus is scheduled to arrive at a stop only a few minutes walk away.

As we were waiting, we struck up a conversation with Stephano, from Italy. He completed a degree in economics then worked for a financial firm during the pandemic but realized he wanted something different. So he quit his job to give him some time to think about who he was and what he wanted for his future. He saw the Camino as tool to decide what direction he wanted his life to take. He started out walking too fast from SJPdP, treating it like a race and by the time he had reached Estella, he had a painful leg injury. After conferring with his doctor back home, the prognosis was to continue, but at a much slower pace to allow the injury to heal naturally. He said the last few days, taken at a slower pace had already given him new insights and perspectives. Our interesting chat on a variety of subjects made the time go by much faster for our wait and we also picked up some suggestions for his choice of Italian red wines.

Our new Italian friend, Stephano

We walked down to the bus stop at 11:10 and waiting in a nearby shady spot until it arrived at 11:30.

the bus arriving just 5 minutes behind schedule
on board and headed for Viana

The bus dropped us off a couple blocks from our hotel in Viana. On the short walk to hotel, we noticed more than the usual Sunday crowd and many were dressed in typical festival red and white.

Viana festival celebrants
more celebrants in opposite direction

We checked in at noon but our room was not ready for another 30 minutes. We inquired about the apparent festival and the desk clerk confirmed the festival started yesterday and will continue through Wednesday. He also said that the 2:00 running if the bulls would pass under our hotel window.

We decided to leave our day packs in the hotel lobby and go out amongst the festival celebrants and partake of the free flowing wine and countless pintxo offerings.

two of our pintxo choices for lunch: (top) shrimp and hard boiled egg with mayo (bottom) tuna, marinated veggies, olive in balsalmic/olive oil
lively bands playing familiar tunes and joined in singing by Vianans of all ages
the streets were packed, then cleared to allow room for the bulls to run
running (from) of the bulls in Viana
running of the bulls in Viana

After 30 minutes of bull running, the celebration continued with families and locals nearly all dressed in white shirts and bottoms, red bandannas and an occasional red sash… sitting together at tables along the main street, drinking wine and beer and munching pintxos for the rest of the afternoon until no pintxos could be found only drinks and people talking and laughing and enjoying each others company.

We ventured out at 5:30 for a ice cream bar for dessert and observed setups for evening music and entertainment in the main square. It appears that the festival will continue into the evening and hopefully we’ll sleep through it!

Viana has always been a town of surprises and today was among the best.

Villamayor de Monjardin to Los Arcos

Walked today: 8.1 mi Camino2023: 66.6 mi

the path leaving Monjardin
looking back a few minutes later

Even though we didn’t start until 6:30, the temperature was 49F and along with a nice breeze, the sun was only a minor issue. Of the 8 mile walk, nearly 6 of the miles were in the open fields with little or no shade and no rest stops.

Linda employed her portable shade generator as a precaution and gained additional confidence of it’s future value once we get to the flat, open plains of the meseta of northern Spain in a week or so.

beginning the “endless” walk through the fields
typical scenery for this morning’s walk
one of the few inclines as we walked through the valley
a “big bend” in the path
after the bend
Linda soaking up the ” shade”
another mile to go
The first citizens to greet us as we walked into Los Arcos reminded us of Amanda & Scott’s place.

We reached Los Arcos (pop. 1300) at shortly after 10:00. We parked ourselves in the town square and had our typical breakfast of toast and cafe con leche.

the Camino leading through Los Arcos
Iglesia de Santa Maria on the square of Los Arcos

At 11:00 we walked a few more steps to Hostal Suetxe and were pleasantly surprised to be admitted to our room… which turned out to be spacious, comfortable and a real value at 65€.

our room at Hostal Suetxe
an interesting rocking chair in the lobby of Hostal Suetxe.

We walked a few blocks to MAVI Bar/Restaurant and had a delicious main meal at 1:00.

1st course: Jim-“Ensalada Rusa”: potato, corn,celery, mayonnaise, carrots, onions, etc Linda- sautéed peas, ham and fried egg
2nd course: Jim- Marinated Quail, potatoes, lettuce Linda- Beef cheeks, potatoes and tomatoes
postre (dessert) Jim- Helado (ice cream), Linda- flan
a very nice wine, grown, bottled and now consumed in los Arcos.

After some downtime in the room, we ventured out at 5:30 to visit Iglesia de Santa María, one of the largest churches in Navara with beautiful examples of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles.

Inside Iglesia de Santa María
the church organ
statue of Santiago
the cloister
close-up of the altar

The forecast for tomorrow is sunny and 100F. So, we’ll try to mitigate it by getting to sleep early and starting earlier in the morning to get to our destination before the heat of the day.

Today was a good one, tired from the walk but good recovery this afternoon.. after an 8 mile confidence builder.