Vierge de Baikorri to Roncesvalles

Walked today: 7.5 mi Camino 2023: 14.6mi

We left our backpacks in the lobby (for pickup and transport at 7:00 as our driver arrived to return us to our stopping point for yesterday. We had a nice conversation with Pelo, a native of SJPdP, during the 30 minute ride back up into the Pyrenees. He provides reasonably priced transportation for pilgrims, locally, as well as several trips per day from the Biarritz Gare when pilgrims are stranded due to frequent French rail strikes. He has a wife and two small children and was very hospitable to us. We strongly recommend him if you are in need of his services.

That’s Pelo with a pilgrim as we began our walk at the Croix de Thibault.

Today’s walk was dominated by fog and working out the muscle soreness. In summary, Linda seemed to thrive in the cooler environment and Jim struggled a bit.

Beginning near the Croix de Thibault

Unlike yesterday’s all uphill, today started that way, but at the midpoint, it was almost totally downhill from there on. We also chose an alternate route to temper the downhill in exchange for some extra walking distance.

uphill and fog
Roland’s Fountain, at the France/Spain border
The France/Spain border (a bit more secure than back home.)

The scenery in this area is spectacular but was not evident today due to the ever present fog.

along the downhill alternate to Roncesvalles
Horses and ponies in the fog
still foggy just before arriving at Roncesvalles

We arrived at Roncesvalles at noon, after 5 hours of walking. Like yesterday, we were tired but apparently getting stronger and some of the soreness had dissipated by dinnertime.

The food at Casa de Beneficiarios has always been excellent for our five previous visits and number six did not disappoint.

A delicious mixed salad with roasted goat cheese
Pork knuckle

We attended the 8;00 mass with our friend, Kris and chatted a few minutes after the service, then bid him farewell.

Our Camino 2023 plan calls for us to take a break here, by spending two nights, to recoup from jetlag and the difficult first two days, which at this point was a brilliant idea.

“What doesn’t kill you will make you stronger!”

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